lol, no damage to the passenger side, thank goodness. At least one side of the truck still looks good.

 

Nahhhh, c'mon, you did a FANTASTIC job repairing it, Rob, I'm not kidding! I know, I'm not there, in person, inspecting every lil wave, etc., ....I'm sure you'll iron it out, AND, bottom line, ....it looks TRUE/PLUM W/ THE REST! lol.

Long as it 'GOES', right? Hey, btw, I updated over there, .....didn't work(oem pump, lol)

Have a good night, man, still watching

 

Thanks bud. It really doesn't look as good in person, but I am hoping that with a little bondo and sanding and a fresh coat of matching paint that it will be good enough. Believe me I do not need it to win any beauty contest, I just don't want it to look like crap either.

I saw your update. Wish I had something for you. I was sure hoping that pump was the problem. You did eliminate the new steering stabilizer right? I thought you had, maybe I should read back. As far as the vacuum thingy goes I have nothing. Did you hook it up to a vacuum pump to see if it will hold pressure? I have a mighty vac that works great for that stuff.

 

I do have a mighty vac, actually... Close out at Pep Boys, 10$~! lol. SCORRRRRRRRE, haha.


I'll quote what you said on my build thread and post a response, there, ....don't wanna highjack yours, buddy!

 

wow great build man looks good

 

Got the springs in last night. With factory overload leaf cleaned and painted, ready to go in.





Installed
I didn't bother cleaning up the U-bolts and plates since they are going in the trash as soon as my U-bolt flip gets here.


After ride height, didn't gain anything at all, maybe a 1/4"


Springs are MUCH softer!
I couldn't do a real flex test but I did use my floor jack to feel it out. I could have gone alot furthur but I limited out my jack. I need to do a fork lift test.
I can tell you for sure that it wouldn't do this with the old springs so I am confident that the flex has improved greatly.

 

Welcome aboard, Thanks for the compliment and for checking out the build.

 

rob, what made you put the overload back in? The extra 1/4" in leaf height or?

Looks good. Is it possible you might gain a little more height when ya put the shocks back in?

 

The new springs did not have an overload at all, just a small plate that was for shipping purposes. The instructions for the springs said to put the factory overload in so I did. Are you suggesting that maybe I do not need an overload at all? As far as the shocks go they might raise it a hair but I doubt it. I am not going to put them back in until my U-bolt flip kit gets here, they are going to need to be completely reloacted anyhow. I plan on welding tabs to the axle housing.

 

not really suggesting anything, just curious.

 

OK, lol.

Sorry but the best answer I have for you is "because the instructions told me too" lol.

Check post #126 of this thread. This is my buddies rig and I am basically going to do the same thing with my rear shocks.
http://toyotaoff-road.com/threads/11...ocks#post18724

 

I figured that's what your up to. If I had a welder and knew how to weld, I'd be going that route too when I put my springs in. Haven't researched which length shock needed to that kind of setup either.

I've seen it done with exhaust clamps and whatnot too, I think on the budbuilt site???? But the lower mounts have to get relocated too so.

 

I ordered lower weld on tabs from Front Range Off-Road yesterday and plan on fabbing the upper piece. The billy's I am using are 10" travel.

 

Sweet man lookin great!!!

.

 

yeah i read all 39 pages in 2 days mostly because my gf was mad because i would sit here and go between youre build and chefs build
awsome 4runner love the paint great job on the body

 

looking good rob. You happy with the height? It's nice when you get a good set of springs that keep your tires planted on the ground when wheeling.

 

Yeah man my olds spring where terrible. Not really happy with the heigth only because it doesn't look level. I think that I am going to try lowering the front 1/2" instead of raising the rear. The T-bars (Downey's) are adjusted as low as they can go but my BJ spacers could stand to be milled down some. They are 2" tall and my CV angles are a little steep. If that doesn't level it out then I will put a slightly longer shackle in the back. I am pretty sure the front tires will rub some when I lower it but a 2" BL & drive train lift will be going on soon.

 

Honestly rob, Get a good set of shackles for the rear. It'll be easier due to the fact that your rig will most likely need to be aligned after messing with the torsion bars. If you're looking for a good set for a reasonable price go back to the guy i directed you to for the idler arm brace. He should have some good options for you. With that being said save the torsion bar adjustment to level it out after the springs settle a bit.

 

I was just thinking of lowering the front to keep the center of gravity as low as possible and I have no intention of messing with the torsion bars unless I add a bumper and winch and need to support the weight better. When I installed my Downey bars I wasn't trying to get any lift out of them, they are relaxed to the point where there are no threads sticking up past the adjuster nut, I do not believe in cranking in lift.

 

I know, YT is addicting in that sense....living vicariously through others' projects.....sigh. I need to get back to work before I get fired for looking at truck porn.