So i just put in a new Dual HEad unit in my truck and now need some bass.

I have never installed a Sub system before so i am sorta lost on what all i need. The instillation shouldn't be a problem once i get all the parts.

I wana start off with these subs:
These ones


Now i plan on running 4-6 guage wire through the body of the truck, then bump it up a bit when i make the final connections. I have the capability of making my own box, but i'm lazy and would rather buy them all together

Now my question is... if i was to get those subs or any subs w/ 300 Watt RMS each (600watt RMS total) What kinda Amp would i need and how would i have to wire up the system? Could i do a parallel i think it's called when u run all the positives together and all the negatives together?

So the questions I basicly have is :

• What kinda amp do i need?
• How should i wire it up?
• What is a Capacitor and will i need one?

Thanks alot for atleast looking guys, i know there are more audio guys here then me.

--Jared

 

any replys?

 

with 600W max get about a 300W amp. with the amp that most decks have it sould pump about 400W. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-KzL2aot...20&I=028V207SX something like that. Run each independantly. I dont know that much about the wiring though. hope I helped

 

thinkin bout running This Amp

 

first off, if you want some bump, youre gona want a little more powerful amp than that.

second off, i would recomend parallel. you simply run the positive wire from the amp and split it off to go to each positive from each sub. same with the negative.

thirdly, a capacitor is simply a storage of electrical power. they are actually dangerous to mess with if you dont know exactly what youre doing. if your amp is good enough, with enough power, you wont need a capacitor. also if youve got a good battery/alternator setup, youll be fine. and with the subs youve selected, i dont think you need the capacitor. if your headlights start dimming when you play the subs, maybe its something to think about. its something easy to add on later. id wait it out first.

hope this helps. a very good database of information is crutchfield q & a

 

i would get all your stuff here they have good prices www.hifisoundconnection.com

 

i've been surinfg the site all day and didn't find that link. haha

Thanks alot bro.

 

Some other quick notes to keep in mind:

The fuse for your amp has to be within a certain distance of the + battery lead (usually +/- 18").

Make sure you get a good ground with a large enough gage wire.

DO NOT Mess with capacitors without FULLY knowing what you are doing.

If you buy a prefab box you might think about running wires directly to the speakers and skipping the midway point on the side of the box. It is pointless to run a large wire to the outside of the box if the wires inside are really small.

Try to find a store that you can hear your specific speaker in your specific box. I originally made my own box and ran it for about a year before I went in to an audio store and heard my same speakers inside of a different style box...cant even describe the difference. When I finally found a box that matched my woofers they put out a much cleaner and louder thump.

Just a couple of things I learned

 

Where's Bumpin' Yota when you need him?

I'd advise against a bandpass personally, but thats just my own prejudices. They distory so much that typically you've shredded the subwoofer before you realize it. Its cheap bass for the most part, and thats why folks tend to get 'em.

That being said:

You can never go wrong running 4-gauge wire even if you are not running a 500w RMS amp. The amp you chose only has 8 gauge leads. Therefore I think the RMS numbers are skewed. I'd run 4 gauge back in this case, then run a distribution block to step it to 8 gauge. Its the only safe way to do it. I'd also suggest getting an amp wiring kit that has everything in it you'll need. The Rockford brand kit from your local Best Buy is a good value. Then get a good D-Block that steps to 8 gauge and make sure your terminals are all clearly connected well.

With the small size of the amp you have, you won't likely need a cap, but in the years I spent installing and selling mobile audio, I never put a cap on a single amp system unless we were drawing serious amperage down the line. That amp shouldn't do that kind of draw. Quick way to figure it out- if your lights dim drastically when your bass hits hard, get a cap.

If you do not have experience with wiring capacitors, have a professional do it!!

As for the amp, your bandpass can handle 80-600RMS, but a 300W RMS amp should be right for the job. BE CAREFUL turning up the gain, since like I said, you'll shred the subs before you know it. Most times those boxes are prewired in series or parallel to maximize the power of the amp.

Last: Crutchfield is pretty good on suggesting what goes with what. If they think its a bad decision, then they usuallly will say...

 

I didn't plan on messing w/ them...
my buddys Capacitor blew up in his camero... luckly he wasn't in it