It's used for the power welder. Some people use it for crawling but for me it revving up the engine for winching and using the onboard welder.

 

SInce the cross member turned out pretty burl, I figured since the tranny pan was quite thin and vulnerable it needed some protection.. I built the skid out of 3/16" plate.



Since the paint on the shifters/shifter plate was dry, I figured I would install the booties.



But, after installing them, I found an issue with the stick for the doubler. I found the travel of the shifter over-exceeds what the boot is cabale of, and causing the shifter to not stay in gear. So looks like I am going to have to re-work the linkage a bit to shorten the throw of the shifter, Hopefully it should be relativitaly simple.

 

One thing that gibby wanted done, was his air system properly wired. I ripped out all the individual power sources to the high amperage items, and ran a heavy guage wire to the pump(extreem air) and wired in a control switch. I havent had a chance to do any of the switch's so I jumped 12v to the control portion of the system and it worked like a champ.



Another item he wanted done, was to get the air tank out of the rig, and under it (large space hogger) so I removed all the mounts on the tank, and made brackets, and now the tank is under the rig(Just forward of the spare tire mount/cross member) and should be safe even with the size of it..

 

Hell of a job with this thread Crash!

I've been glued to it since the start, figured it was time to give a big thumbs up!

It looks like you're doing a hell of a job on Gibbys rig. The lucky bastard

 

I'm not the fab guy, but to shorten the throw, wouldn't you have to lengthen the lever? Adding a little length to the other end of the lever would accomplish that. This is a known issue with the shifters. The manufacturer warned me that the design requires the the boot be as low as possible to avoid that problem. Looks like the Toyota tunnel is too high.

 

Thats extacly it, the body lift is causing the issue. I am going to try and play with the adjustment, but the only option may be runing the boot upside down. I know it sounds silly, but I did this back in the day...

 

Can you lower the boot - meaning just slide it down the shaft?

 

when I put a three inch body lift on mine I had to flip the boot upside down cause just pushing the boot down allowed it to slide up when the lever is operated and you're right back where you started from. upside down is good when you're talking about shifter boots

 

I can deal with a little shifter boot slide. If sliding the boot down is enough then I'm good with that. If the lever is binding against the boot and not just the boot pulling the level, then the throw will have to be shortened.

 

Crash, im actually suprised you shoehorned everything t-case related into that toy tranny tunnel. It seems like it was designed for a fullsize, because it was!

Keep up the awesome work.

 

That's probably where the body lift help and hurt at the same time.

 

Thats the problem, the boot is pulling on the stick. SO hopefully between lowering the boot and shortening the throw will cure it..

 

Mike, I'm not sure that the setup for the air is quite right.

It looks from the picture that you have things in this order, from left to right.
Air tank - one way valve, auto switch, air compressor.
It should go
Air tank, auto switch, one way valve, air compressor shouldn't it?



Otherwise the auto switch will not get a sense of when to turn the pump ON, just off. Am I looking at this correctly?

 

I think he's okay...

This (circled in green) is the pressure switch, and with it right after the compressor, then it'll be able to watch the pressure in the system as a whole:



edit:
Oh... I see what you're saying... Ummm, does the ExtremeAir require a one-way valve or is that something you're used to running? I think you're right. If the one-way is required, then the pressure switch should be downstream of it.

 

Gibby, stop being a backseat builder !! j/k !!! I tryed to make sense of that picture but im clueless. lol

Gibby, man i LOVE your truck . Crash, i LOVE your fab work !

Keep it up !

 

IMO, I don't even know why there is a valve in this system. The only time I have ever seen a valve in an air system, is when you use an A/C compressor for the air source (like my rig) to keep the pressure from bleeding down thru the pump (which they do). This system MUST have a valve at the pump, becuase there is a small tank on the extreem air unit...

 

The air DOES bleed back through this pump.

 

Thats ok, its an easy fix..

 

Ok, since dale doesn't have any kind of E-brake left, and since I modified the 205 for twin stick he decided he wanted some kind of rear brake control. I have ran line locks for some time in my rig, and the rear of mine has individual line locks for cutting brakes(works quite well). Also, the rig needed a rear perportioning valve so we decided to fix the problem in one whack. The only downside to this is the fact you have to run dual brake lines to the rear.
But if your good with a tubing bender, its a piece of cake.

Here are the line locks.



As you can see, I like brass fittings a little too much

Here is the perportioning valve (nothing fancy)



These buggers were a little tough, but would have been easier if I ripped the brake booster out of my way. But why do that, and ruin the challenge, bla (and to make it really tough, I did it with one eye closed )




And here they come down the frame rail at the top of it, that way its a straight shot over the mounts of the x-member. I ordred brake hoses to day and will have them tommorow and plan on running the lines down the rear track bar, that way they are well protected.

 

I got to drive it today - if only on and off the trailer. The hardest part was not using the clutch!

Mike's been working on a lot of the liddle stuff. Modified the accelerator so that I'd have full throttle, working on wiring for switches etc.

Not much more yet. Crash and I did some problem solving today. We got the drivelines in from Highangle driveline. They yokes didn't match with the u-joints so I had to find new yokes. Then then u-bolt straps didn't match the new yokes so I had to get those.

Got a temporary fan installed - even the 10" fan kept it plenty cool.

I have a front driveline in but the horseshoe crossmember is going to have to be modified to fit the CV joint driveline.

Mike fried my alternator - red is positive, black is negative. I had a spare so we swapped some parts and got it back up and charging. I actually made the same mistake when I first put it on and fried 2 80 am fuses.

I took it to a place in Everett called Advanced Toys for Trucks. Looks like a pretty cool place for truck performance stuff and the guys there seem to know what they're doing. I'll let y'all know how the exhaust turns out.