Here is the new dual exhaust. Oh, gibby drove it from everett to my place (like 35 miles)

 

Of course, the trip wans't with out a few issues.

The first, we had some tranny leaks..I thought at first it was from the front pump/torque converter seal but I removed the inspection cover and cleaned the mess up and ran it for a bit and found the shift shaft seal and kickdown cable was leaking.






I had to remove the cable(meant removing the carb) and replaced the hard/cracked o-ring and re-installed it. The shift shaft seal leak, I was able to notice the seal was torn, so I removed all the shift linkage and removed the seal(they are a PAIN if you don't have the special tool) and put a new one in. Ran the motor, and NO MORE leaks

Another problem the starter drive gear is too close to the flexplate, so the nose of the starter would make this AWFULL noise (just barely making contact). So I pulled the starter and put a small shim that moves the starter forward from the mounting block.

 

But those problems are nothing like the last. It seems there is no heat from the heater core. I figured there was an air pocket in the system not letting coolant flowing thru the system. So I looked the system over, and suspect that I must have put the fitting on the wrong side of the pump (one I had to drill and tap) and actually put it on the pressure side of the pump, not the suction side. So, I pulled the pump, drilled it and installed a fitting on the other side.



SO I got it all put back together, and the same thing. It seems the way this electric pump works, there is no real suction side, so what is happening both heater hoses are trying to push coolant down the hoses causing no flow. I tried everything in the book to make this work, but gave up for now(I think I have a fix for it but I will dig into that later).

 

Ok, so like I had stated early on, the rear driveshaft isn't playing nice with the rear x-member. So, it met mr. plasma, and OH, what a sweet smell of burning crap it was Here is how it turned out. I used 6 individual pieces for plating it so I could get just the right curvature I wanted.





And here is the driveshaft from highangle (I have a tad over 1/2" clearance at the x-member)





And here is the front shaft.

 

Here is the t-case linkage. I had to re-work the linkage for the doubler since the throw of the shift lever was going father than the boot would allow. So I was able to re-work the linkage piece at the doubler (made it as short as possable) and used the hole closest to the top of the shifter. I think I got it pretty close, but its going to need some drive time to really tell...




And here is the start of where the switch's are going to go. Since we lost all the plastic parts for the center console, I needed to figure out how to cap the console and make a place for the switch's.

 

Out of curiosity, why the double exhaust, and not some sort of collector pipe and a single exhaust straight back? Seems like you'd have less "stuff" to get hung up on underneath, and the power loss wouldn't be that bad (maybe end up with more low end torque?).

 

I don't profess to be an exhaust expert but it was my understanding that the optimal setup was a dual exhuast with an x-pipe between the sides. However, it was next to impossible to run a pipe down the right side. In bringing them across there was not really much room to even put in a H-pipe. I've heard pros and cons of the dual vs single exhaust and never really got an answer that said "this is the way to go" as there are so many variables. Even the pipe bends completely change the system. We used 2 1/4" tube but with a couple of the bends being pretty tight (I couldn't find anyone nearby with Mandrell bending equipment that could do it when I needed it done.) we've got a little restriction there anyway. Someday when I'm finished reeling from the cost of all this I may take it back to a GOOD shop and have them redo the crossover. That's really the only place where the bends were a factor and when a mandrell bend would have made a lot of difference. Other than that, I think they did a pretty good job tucking everything up and securing it. I may add a tail pipe instead of the dump if the cab noise get's to be an issue but on the first run, I didn't really notice the exhaust noise at all - till I opened the windows!

 

 

Exhaust wise, I keep pointing people here. It's got some good words and a nice chart that relates engine size to exhaust diameter.

With this being a 350, you're at the low end of their recomendations, it looks like you'll be somewhat restrictive, 'specially with that sharp bend at the left header. Going to 2.5" with mandrel bends at some point is probably a good idea.

 

From the looks of it the 2.5" should be sufficient throughout. A little restriction is good, but you're right about the Mandrell bends on the sharp corners. The pipes are supposed to be 2.25 or 2.5" and the cat and exhaust at 2.5"
That's a great little chart.

 

You will be fine exhaust whise IMHO. If dual 2 1/2" can keep my stupidly-overfuelled diesel breathing easily, it will keep your 350 happy.

The work looks great, keep us updated on how you like the new crawler setup, thats actually what i want to run in my truck, only with a 465 backing the diesel instead of my auto. I like that you guys did something different with the doubler, you dont see those in much besides fullsizes.

 

Here is the back side of the new switch/cap panel for the center console. I decided to make it easily removable by making 3 main plugs. I also tried to utilize the factory rear window switch but was unable to make it fit nicely into the panel (tried a test piece) due to how it clips into place. So I decided to go with all togle style. So here is what is in the panel. Both line locks, winch control, fan over-ride switch and both off-road lamps.



And here it is roughed into place. It will bolt to the console in 2 places, and then bolt to the new cover plate on the tunel. It should hold up nicely. So, once I get the connectors on the body side, I can finish the last touchups on the panel, paint it and bolt the sucker down...

 

No auto-eject or self-destruct button?

 

I agree, but they bent up the current set with 2 1/4".

 

Thats hooked to my remote key fob

 

Ok, I finally got the mess of wires finished at the center console..



Both plugs are keyed in a maner so they are pretty much dummy proof.


Here is the finished product..

 

And here it is fully installed. I was very happy with how well it turned out and how well it flows from the tunnel cover up onto the center console..

 

So, since that was all done, I reallly want this thing to have heat (hey, gibby might get cold )

So to fix the problem, here is what I came up with. I plugged both holes in the water pump, pulled the drain in the radiator. I then ran the coolant hose down to where the drain fitting was. Ran it hot, and OH BOY, does it put heat out now. In fact, I had to turn the heater off to get the temp up to 180 so the thermostat would open Another cool thing about running the electric water pump, you can turn the engine off and have the coolant circulate with the heater..





It didn't turn out as pretty as I was hoping, but it did turn out nicely so there should be no issues....

 

Crash... what are you planning to use to label the switches (or are you going to label 'em? ). I'm always looking for labeling ideas for projects...

 

Myself, I never label. That will be left up to gibby..