Upndair's rig--- new powerplant..
#222
Originally Posted by upndair
No labels. If someone tries to steal this sucker they'll have to figure out how to drive it first!
I have the switch's layed out so you should have no problems remembering which is which. Heck, if I can remember you should be peachy
Top row line locks
second row from driver side. Winch, fan kill, rear window
And the very bottom row, PIAA lights and big lights..
#225
Gibby went ahead and decided to order new arb lines(stock stuff) and toss the coiled yellow crap
. But first it was time to finish off plumbing the air system.
OMG, look at this mess

After some work, doesn't this look a bit beter?(I even fixed the check valve)

I decided to go ahead and add another air fitting hookup at the back of the rig (since the front one was going to be done later gibby would have one to use for the time beaing).

Here is the hookup at the tank (you can see where I pluged the line that will go to the front of the rig)

So once that was done, I ran the air system and checked for leaks. Came out good, plus I was able to activate the arb soloniods so I knew which one was what (hate to see gibby get confused,lol)
. But first it was time to finish off plumbing the air system.OMG, look at this mess


After some work, doesn't this look a bit beter?(I even fixed the check valve)

I decided to go ahead and add another air fitting hookup at the back of the rig (since the front one was going to be done later gibby would have one to use for the time beaing).

Here is the hookup at the tank (you can see where I pluged the line that will go to the front of the rig)

So once that was done, I ran the air system and checked for leaks. Came out good, plus I was able to activate the arb soloniods so I knew which one was what (hate to see gibby get confused,lol)
#226
So since I figured out what soloniod is what, time to run some arb lines.
I decided to poke them thru the floor where gibby had the origional ones.

One thing I have by experiance, to protect the hose where ever there is a sharp edge and the trick I have found, use vacuum hose (slit it down the middle).
Another thing I have found, leave a couple extra wraps near the diff. That way, if you ever get a line ripped off at the housing, you have plenty left to repair it. I also have had VERY good luck running the line down the vent hose for protection..


The rear line is complete(now it makes the cool pppppsssssssstttttt noise
The front is 2/3 done and I will finish it tommorow when I go to replace the front springs...
I decided to poke them thru the floor where gibby had the origional ones.

One thing I have by experiance, to protect the hose where ever there is a sharp edge and the trick I have found, use vacuum hose (slit it down the middle).
Another thing I have found, leave a couple extra wraps near the diff. That way, if you ever get a line ripped off at the housing, you have plenty left to repair it. I also have had VERY good luck running the line down the vent hose for protection..


The rear line is complete(now it makes the cool pppppsssssssstttttt noise

The front is 2/3 done and I will finish it tommorow when I go to replace the front springs...
#227
Ok, the next step was to dig into the dash and gut it like an OINK OINK 

Here are the items I needed to handle in the dash . The first item was the factory tach wasn't working with the MSD, so I needed to verify I in deed had the correct wire. I in deed did and after some digging, I found we will be needing a tach adapter # 8910. Unfortunatly they are on back order.
The second item I needed to handle was prepping the tach.

Now I know these particular years have an adjuster on the circuit board to adjust the tach but I hate the idea of needing to rip the cluster out again (when the adapter gets here) to adjust the tach, so instead I decided to put in a trim potentiometer so I could do it with only needing to remove the cluster bezel.

The next item was to identify the wires to the speed sensor. Gibby located a speed sensor for the 205 that is supposed to work with the toy stuff. So once the wiring was located, I pre-wired it from the pass kick panel to near the t-case..
The last item to be done in the dash, was wire up the switch for the air system. I got lucky on the hole for the switch(I had an arb switch laying around) and was able to use the hole that the clutch start switch was in . I also ended up re-wiring 2/3 of the arb switchs too since there was a fire waiting to happen there..


Here are the items I needed to handle in the dash . The first item was the factory tach wasn't working with the MSD, so I needed to verify I in deed had the correct wire. I in deed did and after some digging, I found we will be needing a tach adapter # 8910. Unfortunatly they are on back order.
The second item I needed to handle was prepping the tach.

Now I know these particular years have an adjuster on the circuit board to adjust the tach but I hate the idea of needing to rip the cluster out again (when the adapter gets here) to adjust the tach, so instead I decided to put in a trim potentiometer so I could do it with only needing to remove the cluster bezel.

The next item was to identify the wires to the speed sensor. Gibby located a speed sensor for the 205 that is supposed to work with the toy stuff. So once the wiring was located, I pre-wired it from the pass kick panel to near the t-case..
The last item to be done in the dash, was wire up the switch for the air system. I got lucky on the hole for the switch(I had an arb switch laying around) and was able to use the hole that the clutch start switch was in . I also ended up re-wiring 2/3 of the arb switchs too since there was a fire waiting to happen there..
Last edited by crash; Feb 21, 2005 at 06:03 AM.
#228
So the dash is now back together so I figured it was time to put these things under the front of the rig (leafs, are so 80's).

All I gotta say, thank goodness gibby has his high lift in the rig(I had to cut mine down to fit in the new rig) or I would have had to flop it over to swap the springs,lol.. Unfortunately I didn't get any pics of this mess(and yes, more dirt on the floor) since it was me and my brother in law bustin butt to get it done. The only real major issue was pressing the orbit eye's out because they were also plug welded in one spot and I plug welded them the new springs. One thing I will say, I am not impressed with the amount of play that are in the orbit eyes(me and dale had a conversation about this some time ago,lol).
Ok, so once they were in place, I had to do a tad bit of clearancing on the tie rod on the passenger side due to the increased arch. And I also found his steering stop for turning to the drivers side mis-adjusted..

All I gotta say, thank goodness gibby has his high lift in the rig(I had to cut mine down to fit in the new rig) or I would have had to flop it over to swap the springs,lol.. Unfortunately I didn't get any pics of this mess(and yes, more dirt on the floor) since it was me and my brother in law bustin butt to get it done. The only real major issue was pressing the orbit eye's out because they were also plug welded in one spot and I plug welded them the new springs. One thing I will say, I am not impressed with the amount of play that are in the orbit eyes(me and dale had a conversation about this some time ago,lol).
Ok, so once they were in place, I had to do a tad bit of clearancing on the tie rod on the passenger side due to the increased arch. And I also found his steering stop for turning to the drivers side mis-adjusted..
#229
So, since I got the steering fixed up, ah heck, I figured I would just dive into the next part (We were afraid I wouldn't have time right now). This little sucker, do to the length, was a bit of a pain to figure out how to put it in.. But I figured it out 

All I gotta say, I am talking 1/4 clearances all the way around and if the colapsed length of the ran was 1/2" longer, I would not have made it fit on top of the housing like I did..
So once that was in, I ripped the old steering box(damn I hate power steering fluid all over) and I found a nice mess
.

I found a # of cracks in the frame where the inserts came thru so I welded/ground them and prepped the frame for plating..
And here is my style I have been doing for a while now..

Gibby shouldn't have any issues there now..


All I gotta say, I am talking 1/4 clearances all the way around and if the colapsed length of the ran was 1/2" longer, I would not have made it fit on top of the housing like I did..
So once that was in, I ripped the old steering box(damn I hate power steering fluid all over) and I found a nice mess
.
I found a # of cracks in the frame where the inserts came thru so I welded/ground them and prepped the frame for plating..
And here is my style I have been doing for a while now..

Gibby shouldn't have any issues there now..
#230
So once the frame was plated it was time to put the box in. One thing I did mess up on, was the location of the hole for the hydro, I should have put it on the side of the box instead of the front but I was able to fix it b putting a 90 degree fitting on the box(tight fit).

Here is the hose routing at the box. I got a nice fit with no contact areas that are shaft against the hoses.

And here is how I did the hoses at the ram. At first I had the hoses backwards, and al I can say is damn the steering acts freaked out
. As you can see I ran them forwards and dang near in the center so you don't need alot of length hanging(since the diff pivats in the center)..

So I bled the system and biggy shouldn't have any issue turning these big tires anymore

Here is the hose routing at the box. I got a nice fit with no contact areas that are shaft against the hoses.

And here is how I did the hoses at the ram. At first I had the hoses backwards, and al I can say is damn the steering acts freaked out
. As you can see I ran them forwards and dang near in the center so you don't need alot of length hanging(since the diff pivats in the center)..
So I bled the system and biggy shouldn't have any issue turning these big tires anymore
#231
So since the steering is done, time to route the rest of the arb line for the front.
You can see the extra line.

I had a hard time deciding how to route the vent/arb line but I think I found a happy medium for both. The arb line should be protected from the extaust and getting ripped off
You can see the extra line.

I had a hard time deciding how to route the vent/arb line but I think I found a happy medium for both. The arb line should be protected from the extaust and getting ripped off

#232
You wouldn't believe all the places we found dirt in Gibby's old engine! Behind the steel plate under the flywheel, everything under the timing cover, and we couldn't put the spark plugs cause they were packed full!!!
#236
Originally Posted by crash
Just took the rig for a drive, out doing hot laps 

Looks good, dude! I'll have to see if I can sneek outta early enough tonight to stop by and scope it out
#238
Crash - are you worried at all about the tire ripping the hose off of the steering box? My white truck's tires (35's) rubbed the steering box at full lock - right where that hose is...
Just curious.
Just curious.
#239
Originally Posted by andyr354
Simple little question here. I like the paint you use on all your undercaridge projects. What is that stuff anyway? Seems to hold up well.
Black hamerite..
#240
Originally Posted by rockota
Crash - are you worried at all about the tire ripping the hose off of the steering box? My white truck's tires (35's) rubbed the steering box at full lock - right where that hose is...
Just curious.
Just curious.


