Neither was the problem. After I replaced the burnt boot, I crossed a couple of wires.

BTW, there's a few pics and links to some vids here you might like to see.
http://www.snort4x4.com/forum/showth...5&pagenumber=1

 

Sorry, pasted the wrong links.

This is me
rtsp://207.202.208.243/faithwheelers/050905-04.rm

This is Brier.
rtsp://207.202.208.243/faithwheelers/050905-05.rm

This is a guy named Grady who walked through with obvious skill. It was more interesting to watch the driver-spotter communication. I think I would have done much better if we had the same communication. This is the first time Markus and I did something like this as a team. We both learned a lot about how important and challenging the communication was.
rtsp://207.202.208.243/faithwheelers/050905-01.rm

This poor guy in a Toyota had heart to try, but the rock pile quickly beat him.
rtsp://207.202.208.243/faithwheelers/050905-02.rm

I don't know this guy's name in the Blazer, but he had some communication challenges as well. Looks like he needed to get some air out of his tires too.
rtsp://207.202.208.243/faithwheelers/050905-03.rm

This Cherokee had an interesting home made lift. It looks like he used he stock coils on the front and built up the bottom of the coil mounts. The long arms looked home made and he dropped them frame attachments down. The Z-linked steering was unusual. The supported the bends with a piece of tubing welded to the drag link across the bends. In the rear, I think he dropped down the front spring hanger attachment. In the rear he had very long shackles that were welded SOLID to the frame. We was relying COMPLETELY on the spring for flex as neither end of the spring was mobile. I was suprised that he didn't break something.
rtsp://207.202.208.243/faithwheelers/050905-06.rm

I spaced on the guy's name in the orange Sammi. He put on a great show as usual. Last year at our event he was the only one to get through and he flopped it twice along the way!
rtsp://207.202.208.243/faithwheelers/050905-07.rm

 

now they are clicky looks like it was fun that toyota looks like a old datsun or a old ford mazda courier

 

Its been some time since dale took the rig and was planned to come back for me to swap out the 4.11's for some 5.38's. But durring his time having it a few problems were encountered so I needed to correct them.

The first was the power steering. I looks like the extension tube I added to the power steering pump reservoir might had a small fracture in the weld and started leaking. While dale had the rig he had picked up a new pump assembly so I went ahead and ripped the old one out. This time I made the extenion tube a lil bigger for more fluid, brazed the tube to the reservoir and made a tab to help support the tube.



I also pressure tested the tank and there were zero leaks so there shouldn't be any problems with it.

 

One problem we were faced with shortly after I got the rig done was the main fuse that powers the switch panel I made was blowing. Well I had found one of the line locks was interally shorted blowing the fuse so I ended up having to snip the wire to the line lock. Well while dale had the rig the fuse blew again. So when I got the rig back I went thru my work, scratching my head because I just plain and simply never have wiring issues with my work. well I finally found the other line lock was shorted. These ones are plain/simple JUNK!



So I had dale order 2 new line locks but this time the ones I use on my customer rigs. So I had to rework the hard lines on the output of the line locks and wire them up. No problems now

 

So now another problem was there was ALOT of bearing noise from the t-cases while you drove down the road. Now I understand you are going to get noise from the 203 reduction box but dayum, it was really bad(I thought dale was just going fruity on me ). So I ran the rig on jack stands and narrowed the noise down to the back side of the 203 reduction box. damn, one thing I didn't want to do again---rip the t-cases out. So I went and pulled both cases and I was a mess by the time they were out-ugh

So I tore the 203 apart and found where the noise was coming from.





Thats the output bearing on the 203.

Here is the custom cut output shaft



And here is the input shaft.



Now here is my therory on what happened. The 203 adapter was a home made jobbie that dale had picked up. While the rig was out for the exhaust work back some time ago it aquired an oil leak at the 203 adapter. So I removed the t-cases back then(along with replacing the 203 input seal due to atf getting into the t-cases) and had found the welds on the adapter had crack causing an oil leak, So I had to fully reweld the adapter(wating how I welded it so's not to creat any pulling force). Ok, back on the topic at hand. What I suspect is the adapter wasn't square causing a slight side load on the bearing. Thats the only reason I can see for the cage that retains the balls to come apart as it did. Now you can see the bad pitting on the inner race but I have never seen that cause the cage to explode. SO I tore another 203 apart to get good parts and the plan was to get the adapter checked out by a machinest and send the stock 203 output shaft out to be cut/resplined. But dale went ahead and did what I was hpoing and got another adapter.. So hopefully it will be here tommorow and I can start making another mess of myself

 

Some great pics there Crash.
I picked up a new doubler kit from www.jedsmachine.com. It was only 5/16" shorter than the one I had. So, no driveline changes but Mike will have a few minor (hopefully) mods to the 205 mounting plate so that it will fit the custom transfer case mount.

I upgraded to the billet input shaft and I believe Mike picked up new bearings. This unit comes with the 205 section unwelded so that it can be clocked to exactly what's needed. This units still about $300 cheaper than the ORD design and hopefully we won't need to modify the triple shifter setup.

I look forward to driving this again withOUT that awful noise. The t-case was starting to lock up on me and I was concerned about having the rear end lock up while driving. On the highway, that would be fatal with my rig!

 

Well I've spent the better part of my day at work reading this enormous thread. I am so glad it came to the top. Great rig and awesome fab job.

Couple of questions:
1. What electric fan are you running. (size, CFM, brand) My 350 ran on the hot side even with my oil cooler before my fan died. I am looking for a replacement fan.

2. Why the one-way valve in the air compressor tank setup? ie: does it prevent air from the tank from leaking out from the compressor

3. What size piston in the GM master cylinder? Is that a stock brake booster or a larger/dual diaphram? I want better brakes and already have a 1 1/4" GM. I have been unable to figure out if a dual diaphram booster will help actual braking or just make it easier to push the pedal.

Got some good ideas on how to redo my front bumper too. But I swear the IFS rigs get much better mounting area up front to work with.

Geoff

 

I'll have to look up the fan manufacturer, it's been a while and I forget. I recall it was a 16" fan at 1610 CFM. We had to go on the low side of CFM because of the minimal clearance issues.

You're correct on the one way valve on the air. Every air compressor bleeds. The tank will still loose a lot of pressure in a day or so. I could rework the fittings but it fills up in a couple of minutes, so no big deal.

The master cylinder setup came from www.rockstomper.com. It's not designed for the rear wheel discs, which is why we chose the manual proportioning valve to adjust the front/rear braking. Even though we can never really get a good hard pedel, the brakes on this will through you on your nose if you're not careful!

 

My last dead fan was about 1300 CFM as a puller. Your 1600 CFM as a pusher seems weaker than what I would have expected, but if it works. What are the high ambient temps the rig runs trails in?

I have the opposite problem with my GM master cylinder, it is a rock hard pedal with minimal travel. I have smaller rotors on the D44 and only 10" Toy drums in the rear w/ proportioning valve. No matter how hard I push brake lock-up is impossible and braking is weak at best.

Did you keep the stock brake booster? I know that a larger dual diaphram from a T100 will improve the pedal feel but still can't find it that will help actual stopping power. I get conflicting opinion if I have the best I can get or if the booster will help.

 

Mine is a puller, not a pusher. I am running an aluminum radiator so it'll run a lot cooler than a copper core. The only time I have any trouble with overheating is when my radiator is FULL of mud - which frequently happens, or when I've had trouble with the fan relay fuse blowing. I jury rigged a little aligator clip wire to hook the fan directly to the battery if that fuse blows. It was on the same circuit at the line locks that were defective, which is what we believe was causing the fuse to blow.

Hmmm you shouldn't need any more that the Toy master for that setup. I'd guess that your vacuum assist boost isn't working - you're basically operating on manual brakes with no power assist. I ran 4 wheel discs with the Toy master cylinder with very little problem but upgraded when I went to the MUCH larger calipers. The Toy master's pretty good... I'd be very suspicious of the vacuum assist not being hooked up or not functioning properly. I am using the completely stock booster.

 

I've got a decent sized aluminum radiator too, runs cool on the highway. I was thinking of the pusher fan that I see in front, checking back I do see your puller too. Are you still running both fans?

After bleeding the system with the stock MC it always felt soft and easy to hit the floor while being weak. After the GM MC it has been totally firm but still weak. I'll have to investigate the vacuum system, that could explain why my cruise control won't work.

Thanks for the replies.

 

The pusher is the factory acc fan for when the AC get's a little hot. I still have to get the AC hooked up one of these days.

 

Mike, where's the rest of the pics?

 

As soon as I get back from TSF I'll post the last few I have

 

Looks great man!! I'm currently in the process of a 350 swap into my 1992 runner, got alot of ideas from you guys thanks!! Where are you located? If it's not too much trouble I would like to look at your setup in person and see how to better do my setup. Thanks guys for a great build thread!!

 

Wow, just saw the date on this. Sry guys.

 

 

even though this is old i just finished reading the whole thing and all i have to say is grate work, man what a sweet project.

 

It looks a little differebnt now--less sheetmetal,lol.

I am about done with his second rig (granted its a flatfender jeep) so it can go home for paint.