It's an RV cam, if that helps at all... He didn't know the specs. He had to adjust the timing and mixture to make it work and then quickly set everything back.

 

Are you guys going to relocate the coolant res being the upper rad hose neck is very close as is? Also how close is the fan going to be from the rad? Badarse project btw, and great work Crash.

 

I'm checking with AA to see what they recommend for the reservoir. In talking to them when I bought the radiator, they didn't mention anything about needing to change or movee the reservoir.
There will be a second battery going in that corner anyway and we could hang a universal bottle off the battery tray.
We're going with an electric fan.

 

Make it pass the sniff test shouldn't be too hard, but may require a catalytic converter, but, thats hard to tell till that point gets reached..

I am going to look at the options for just relocating the res here in a bit. I also got drive belt parts and going to see what I can do with that part today also..

As for electric fans, thats still up in the air. I don't think we will have enough room (not sure yet) behind the rad, and dale wants to keep his ac, so that puts the condensor in the way in front of it, but I will hopefully have an idea later today on that...

 

Was a good day... Busy but good.

Got both headers fully installed





They were a tight fit..

Here was the one clearance issue I knew I would have to fight. I ground a little off the steering shaft, but ended up having to dimple the header a little (last one I did I had to do the same)

 

Since we are going to retain the stock guages, I installed the origional temp sensor and oil pressure sensor

 

The donor engine dale got for the rig only had a water pump, and nothing else. So I had to make a decision on what belt setup to run. Myself, I prefer a serpintine setup. This is due to the fact you never have to worry about belts slipping, and you don't need to have any accessories that are adjustable, just a simple belt tensioner to do the job. I had gotten a serpintine setup from a vortec V8.

The driver side bracket that holds the power steering pump and A/C compressor was a simple bolt on deal (at least bolting it to the block was)



One thing about this bracketry is the fact that the portion that holds the A/C compressor, goes over the valve cover. Now this isn't an issue with the short stock valve covers, but the engine has tall guys on it..



As you can see, there is a problem

So, I opted to just remove that portion of the bracket, which lost one mounting bolt for the compressor, but there are 3 more, so it should not be a problem.



And here is the compressor bolted up

 

Now that bracket was done, it was time to mount the other bracket, which holds the alternator and tensioner/idler pulleys..



But now is where the fun starts. The bracket has 3 mounting bolts.



The old style head, only has one. So I looked at my options, which where pretty slim. So after shacking my head, putting the backet on/off a few times, I finally came up with a conclusion. The first step, drill the head and tap it for hole #2



Well, now that took care of #2, but still left one hole. Unfortunately the 3rd hole lined up with the head, right where the threads for the intake bolt on the corner sat. So drilling and tapping the head for this hole was not an option.

Here is what I came up with to help support the bracket.

 

That AC comp. looks to sit very high, will it clear the yota hood?

 

So now that the bracket was mounted, was time to do the alternator. Dale has the premier power welder setup, which uses a special alternator (I removed it from the 3.0). After sitting the alternator on the stock bracket, I finally came up with just making brackets to mount the alternator to the stock bracket. It took a bit of measuring to get the alt square with the drive belt (if you get it off you will wear the edges and the belt will wanna squeak).

 

Man, that's absolutely amazing work. I was planning on doing this myself and there is NO FREAKING WAY I could have done anything as nice as this!

 

Lookin' good, Crash!

My Cruiser had the same style heads... I remember how much of a PITA it was to get the alt and York mounted...

 

WARNING!!!!!!!! Was the engine origonally set up with a serpentine belt?? If it was conventional belts, you need to change the waterpump also. A serpentine belt setup spins the waterpump in the OPPOSITE direction. I'm sure Crash knows this, but just the same......

Also, the fan needs to be a counter-rotation fan.

AWSOME WORK CRASH!!!

 

very good point, easily able to be overlooked but im sure your right (crash was ready for that one). He said he is going with an electric fan but also another great point. This is the sweetest thread ive seen in a long time if ever. thanks guys.

 

We're using a proform electric pump and the fan is reversible.

Hey Yoda, you're the A/C an. Can you help with the AC hose hookup and setup/pressurizing etc? Crash asked about getting an AC specialist to do this work.

 

Oh ya, gotta remember, I am a chev tech

Thanks man..

 

This is the water pump that I'll be using.

Flow rate is 35 GPM. The manufacturer says that it's good for street use, but another vendor says that the 35gpm may be a tad low. We'll have to see by watching the temp.
Running trails at low RPM... this will probably produce better flow than a stock water pump, but at high rpms, it may underperform. With a good electric fan setup, an awesome radiator and the electric pump, I'm confident it'll do pretty well. If not, a higher volume pump could be installed if necessary.

 

Should be able to help with the A/C. Was it R12 or R134a? Yours is right at the transition year. We'll need a new drier as well.

 

Ya mean you have another job instead of cool fab work?

I figured you knew about the pump, I just was seeing the old one on there.



Have any leads on an A-6 compressor and brackets? I want to OBA my Cruiser. I have the "old" style belt setup on my SMC.

 

My rig had the new stuff and since the new AC compressor (we're using the chevy one) is from a Vortec, I assume it also had the newer chemicals.

The major problem I have is a pinhole leak in one of the lines in front of the compressor. I was hoping to find a way to plug/patch it as it's tough to get at to replace.