I guess I won't hold my breath. It would be worth it, but unless you have been there, you won't realize it.

 

Yes, it's on the left top side of my 4wd shifter. I don't know what the difference is.Honestly, I could care less if I have ABS anymore, since I rarely drive it anymore, and it's mostly off-road. So, the question, is it possible to do it the way you mentioned?

Chris

 

If the have the push-button the shifter, then you have multi-mode.

 

So does that mean there's a cheaper way to go to manual hubs than the way Steve did it before?

Chris

 

I completely understand. Let me see what I can do, talk to Joe Darlington, and see what I find out.

I know you guys are mocking me about the title of this thread. I actually should probably change it, but my plan is working out great so far. I wheeled it on the 19th with the 3" body lift and the 3" drivetrain lift, and it worked just as it did in the past.

If I do go out there, I would definitely have some spare axles.

I'm sorry I don't have an answer yet, but I'll let you know by the end of next week, fair enough?

Chris

 

no. it just means it has a "selectable locking center differential" instead of the regular 4WD that splits the power/torque 50/50 front to rear. w/ the multi-mode pushed in, the center diff is unlocked and the rig is really in "ALL WHEEL DRIVE" so you can drive it on pavement. When the shift lever is in 4HI, then it's in 4WD-HI and the center diff is locked and should only be used on loose surfaces to allow for tire slippage.

 

No, that's not how mine is. I have the 4wd button that I just push to go into 4wd, and then I slide the shifter forward to put it in 4-lo. I don't have an awd, 4-hi, and a 4-lo.

Chris

 

hmmmm...

i have the button that i use in 2HI to go to "Multi-Mode 4WD", then I can shift to 4HI, then to N and on to 4LO...

 

I can't remember the year, but I think the 1998's were the first year for the multi-mode you're talking about. Mine is a 1997, and it's always in the 4hi position, but it's only in 4wd when I push the button. Then if I want to put it in 4-lo, I can put the vehicle in neutral, and then push the shifter forward all the way into 4-lo, which actually works with or without the button pushed.

Chris

 

Hmmm, allow me to confuse the issue even more...My '98 SR5 has no buttons, and 4 positions on the T-case shifter 2-Hi, 4-Hi, N, and 4-Low.

 

that's the manual transfer case w/o the push button bells and whistles.

that's typical for an SR5

limited's got the push buttons and in 98+ got AWD to boot!

chris's has 3 manual positions + the button.

4hi disengaged button = 2wd
4hi engaged button = true 4wd
Neutral
4low

my 99 has:

2hi
2hi + the button = all wheel drive w/ center diff unlocked
4hi = true 4WD w/ center diff locked
Neutral
4lo

to add to that, my ARB rear locker can be engaged/disengaged in any of those...

 

Ah, yes...I overlooked the fact that Chris has a limited. That all makes since, Andy. I've never spent much time in any Ltds.

 

I didn't think I was crazy!

Chris

 

C'mon Andy, I did the Moab trip in October...but I started/finished in North Carolina! And yes, it is one hell of a road trip. Yet another reason to drop the S/C and go back to 87 octane.

 

This is totally off subject , but me and Mikeys87 are talking about taking a trip out there within the next 2 years. We are planning on taking at least a week off to go. Maybee we shoud get a caravan together to make the trip!

 

im thinking of going summer of 2006 i recently acquired a tow rig (91 f250) so im a gonna keep looking for a trailer now and with the recent and hopeful change in occupations i think i can make this happen!!!

 

Ok, let me know in a week. If you go, you'll want us there. It's wise to have a good group in Moab. To help you out if you run into trouble.

 

Thanks Steve! I'll definitely let you know.

Chris

 

If anyone that's been following this thread is interested in following my gas tank relocation details, go here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...296#post561296

I've finally got the tank, and I'm beginning the project this week.

Chris

 

I'm replying to this thread, because there's so much love about this thread title. But, for those interested in doing a drivetrain lift, I just bought 1' of 3x2x3/16" tubing and 3' of 3x1.5x3/16" tubing to make a custom front crossmember that will mount to the stock location rubber mount. This setup will most likely not work for those wishing to do a SAS, but for most of us, when combined with a 3" body lift/drivetrain lift, it results in a crossmember that rests 1/2" above the bottom of the frame rails, clears the bottom of the front driveshaft, and leaves you with a crossmember that won't hang you up on obstacles anymore.

I haven't tested it out of the trails yet, but I'd say that if you're hitting this front crossmember, you're probably running trails that our vehicles aren't capable to run anyway.

I'll begin the installation tonight with hopes of finishing it, but I'm also doing some welding for a local guy needing to weld on some shackle hangers on his front bumper.

Hopefully, I'll have pics in the next couple of days.

Chris