Hey 4rnr what size shocks did you use? the bilstein 5125 12" stroke? and you heard that it is better to mount the shocks like this l l instead of /\ cause I was considering mounting like /\ but if you say you've researched it and people are changing back to OEM style of mounting i wont even bother trying the /\ style.

 

Well like I said / \ wasnt and option bc the shock was too long (5125 12'' I think) I dont have any first hand experiences in comparison though. It makes sence to me. The only thing I would change from the design I have (and it might not be necesarry) is to have the monts perpendicular to the axle, but I had the other mounts already so....

I can post pics if you want.

 

Last night was fun the roads weres so icy that my fiance lost controll of her fj62 (62girl)and smashed the front and rear of it, then about 20 min later I left the house to go get some chinese, and came up over a hill and saw an 8 car pile up at the bottom of the hill and cars flying everywhere. I felt left out so I dicided to hit the brakes and join the ice-cepades. I slid about 200 ft and finally managed to get the 88 runner off the road then I slid about 100 ft before I managed to get it to hit a nice big bush, going 15mph. However, the most important thing is I got the chinese food.

 

Ahahaha I'm glad you were able to eat something and sorry about your girl's FJ.

David

 

Nice build up.....I wish I would have done more of a write up on mine but I just couldn't find the time. Rear shocks......I tried to locate them straight up and down but I found that I had to move the top in couple of inches.

 

Thanks for the info. man, if you could post some pics that would be great.

 

I'll get them posted up ASAP on my build up thread. Looks like you kept the stock panhard crossmember, I cut it out with a plasma (a must when doing one of these) and my buddy fabbed up an upper shock mount similiar to SKY's.

 

Here is what I came up with, it would be a better design if it was done with studs mounted perpendicular to the axle but I had this hard ware and will see how it works and make any necessary mods later. The real point of this is the positioning of the shocks to increase stability.

Here is where I mounted the brakets to the top edge of the crossmember, and had to section the pinch weld and some of the cross member in order to accomodate the forward lean that the shock has at full droop and to allow clearance so the tube can come up at full stuff. Also the lowers are just positioned as low as I could make them on the axle with out them being a rock catcher...



Here you can see were the braket interferes with the shock, escpecially at full compression when the axle moves back, so I notched about 3/4" out of the top of the braket. (I dont have any pics of that right now....

 

Nice work, maybe you covered this already....where did you get your shock mounts from? Good idea

 

well its all part of the marlin stuff that im trying out in order to discover the best way to mount the shocks, and they prefer me to try out there existing hardware (probably cause it keeps their costs down.) The lower brakets are marlin shock mounts, and the uppers are steering stabilizer brakets. Ill be doing the same kind of experamenting with a bumpstop idea I have, they are supplying me with what I need as long as I show them what I come up with. They havent done alot of coil to leaf conversions and are still kind of experamenting with the designs i guess.

 

Great looking welds. Can't wait to see more.

 

This might be a stupid question but Isn't the way the lower mounts are on going to cause the shocks to bind up as it articulates unless you use a 7100 series shock with heim joints?

I've always seen the lower mounts rotated 90 degrees and on the top of the axle or as a stud type mount coming off the back.

I'm gathering parts to do the same thing to my 4runner so your writeup is greatly apreciated. Very nice welding.

 

I dont have any binding issues as of yet, or that I can see in the future, the shock seems to have enough play. However, this is the stuff marlin sent me to work with so Im trying to make the stuff they already have work. I may cut all that stuff off and do studs top and bottom. In fact if I was doing this from scratch and had to make my own mounts it would definatly be studs. So I say go studs. I was more concerned with shock location than mounting designs. Ill know more I flex it out.

I talked to Dave at marlin for a long time and he asked me what I thought the kit needed (thats why marlin is the best) I said some sort of crossmember replacement that incorporated an upper shock mount design and mounting for the proportioning valve. Also a bump stop setup. So he sent me what marlin has (in stock already) in order to figure something out. So using his parts this is what Ive got. I will tell them that the kit should include a crossmember like skys, also to explore the idea of mounting the shocks more verticle. but thats just my 2 cents. Also I think they should have jigs for locating the rear hangers. I also have an Idea for bumpstops (also using only what marlin already has) but I wont be starting on that until I get it flexed it out to see were everything lands.

 

Oh and the welding is done with a little 100 amp 110v lincoln set up for flux core, I love it.

 

I spoke to Dave at Marlin back in December. Problem was getting to speak to Dave, the number of missing components in their rear kit, and the lack of instructions. I left my number a bunch of times and Dave never returned my calls so I figured they really weren't interested in the business, and this is after I bought all of my front end stuff from them. The other guys that I spoke to didn't really know much without asking Dave.


Keep up the good work and the pictures. Really interested in how this turns out.

 

Well I finally screwed something up I was welding a bead on the back side of the front hanger, and I accidently clipped the radiatior, and blew two pin holes in it. I drained it and dryed it and used some jb weld type stuff (bc I had it) so Ill see how that works. If not Ill braze it. I was pissed though!

check list:
Bleed brakes
do something about the t-case cooler
fab up some bracing for the frame by the hanger (so I can jump it )
get 3rds
install rear 3rd and new high angle drive shaft
install front 3rd and d-shaft
set mar tacks and install front axles
get allignment
replace water pump and timing belt (firestone they will do it for $350!!!!!!!!! I cant pass that up, not that that job isnt fun *sarcasm*) plus they will have it for the allignment.
drive it
flex it
wheel the crap put of it

 

I can't wait to see this thing after it get's out and get's wheel'd... Nice Thread man. Also, I love the Snorkel... I'm assuming it's home made by the look of it, how hard was it to mock up?

Cheers and No worries

Dave

 

Thanks man

Heres the thread on the snorkle

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f31/my-custom-snorkle-56876/

 

Ok I need some advice...

My 3rd comes on saturday. Im supposed to go wheeling this weekend. So should I...

A. ride in the back seat of an fj80 and go wheeling.

B. stay home and install my 3rd and drive my truck and post cool pics for ya'll

c. stop welding on my radiator

d.