The Fab Shop Tube buggies, armor protection and anything else that requires cutting, welding, or custom fab work

THE 1 MILLIONTH SAS (on my 92 runner)

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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 09:43 PM
  #41  
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Trail gears pitman arm is the same drop as factory, so its not going to solve his problem.
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 10:33 PM
  #42  
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From: Cumming, GA
Originally Posted by joez
Trail gears pitman arm is the same drop as factory, so its not going to solve his problem.
There new pitman arm brings it closer to the frame. I got a call from them today telling me this as they thought they had shipped me the wrong one. I may be wrong but it’s worth it to call and ask.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 01:04 PM
  #43  
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yea it looks like im getting my plasma cutter and maybe my 3rd on saturday so now this "turtle speed" build will speed up. Or ill take weeks figuring out how to set up and use the plasma cutter, oh well both will be fun. because bottom line Ive got a plasma cutter that was only used once and almost new (for $200!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) HEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHE
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 02:32 PM
  #44  
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Talking

Score! Great find. good luck with the SAS. Cant wait for the pics to star showing up.
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 07:14 PM
  #45  
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Ahhh finally some progress. I've got a toy (plasma cutter) that I never thought Id have but for $200 and a spare kit of consumables, I couldnt pass it up...



This thing is great it cuts like crazy. which is good bc it took me all day, 6 cutoff wheels, and 2 grinding wheels just to get the all the bracketry off of the rear axle. This takes a long time with no help (although tonight my fiance 62girl (jenn) helped a lot) I put my swampers on the axle so I could have a sort of portable jackstand setup, it worked great until I had to move the 400lb beast by myself. well not that I got much done tonight but I made some head way and actually got some cool pics of grinding in the garage







My woman lending a hand



I just really like this pic with my jenns 62, my 88 runner and the 92 in the garage



Although this isnt a rare occurance, I often have a fj80, an fj62, an fj60, my 88runner, the neighbors 94 runner, my 92 runner, my other buddies 92 runner, all in and out regularly.

Well tomarrow I hope to remove the front end.

BTW I talked to marlin and they mentioned that the steering box doenst need to be moved, they said it will work and that is how they set up all their trucks.
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 09:50 PM
  #46  
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Hey, all of you who have done leaf conversions on your runners, what did you do with the upper arm bracket that is bolted to the gas tank, i dont want to take my plasma to it. It doesnt seem to be in the way and it is part of the bracket for the gas tank, just curious. Also did you guys have to move the gas tank, (I doubt it bc the leafed toys have the same tank) Things are moving along. Its awesome but it doesnt make for good right ups bc its the same old sas, oh well ill post pics tomarrow.
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 03:13 PM
  #47  
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From: Plainfield, IL
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 05:34 PM
  #48  
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Thats cool your doing the SAS conversion did you buy the kit or fab it your self? and what did the solid front axle cost? I want to do this mod really bad but can't find an axle, also what gearing are you using?
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 06:20 PM
  #49  
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From: Plainfield, IL
Originally Posted by joebruva25
Thats cool your doing the SAS conversion did you buy the kit or fab it your self? and what did the solid front axle cost? I want to do this mod really bad but can't find an axle, also what gearing are you using?
I bought the kits from Marlin, Ive got about $1300 into the front axle
$150-axle
$140-gears (5.29)
$75-gear setup kit
$160-Profields
$225-knuckle and bearing kits
$230-locker
$100-wheel spacers
$80-rotors
$50-pads
$70-(nonfactory 4.88)3rd member
$20-diff armor
total=about $1300

I chose 5,29's bc with a 3.0 auto, geared 4.88 with 35" AT's on alloys I needed more rpms. So with 36" swampers, on steelies, I will definatly need the 5.29s.

Axles are really easy to find, check the classifieds on pirate4x4 and here.
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 07:03 PM
  #50  
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Swaping my truck was the best thing I ever did. You won't regret it.

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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 07:19 PM
  #51  
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Ok ive got a decient amount done the worst part of this is definatly the grinding.





Heres 924runnersr5 lending a hand



The rear axle all ready to place



Heres where im at with removing the coil brackets I havent made up my mind on whether im going to remove any more, I might just clean up whats there, I dont think it will be in the way. But ill probably remove the drivers coil pad as well I just hate plasmaing that close to the gas tank





Ive still got a long way to go, this is how my front end sits until I finally get my 3rd back!



I got my front and rear kits, and other little things today, so this should continue to pick up pace.
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 09:14 PM
  #52  
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hey what did you guys do about drive shafts, I havent made up my mind on what to use. I have 4 drive shafts in my garage.

1 front with a cv
1 front with u-joints
1 rear with a cv
1 rear with u-joints

I dont want to use straps, I dont want to make a square shaft, dont care if the front has a vibration bc I wont be using 4wd on the road. I am leaning toward a u-joint rear, and im not sure for the front.

I know ill have to do longer splines. Keep in mind I have the auto and one t-case so my front shaft is pretty short
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 10:10 AM
  #53  
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i've heard the way to go is a rear with a CV. i'll have to double-check on that though...
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 02:17 PM
  #54  
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I did alot of research today and I think that im going to use a cv rear shaft with stock splines and extend the shaft. For the front it looks like a u-joint with a 8" spline kit, and extended.
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 02:21 PM
  #55  
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Ok kids this why you dont make a flexy rear end in these and keep he panhard stock...



notice where the d-shaft had dented and rubbed the crap out of the tank, also the 3rd smashed the crap out of the tank and skid plate
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 09:43 PM
  #56  
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If any of you swaped coils to leafs in the rear what method did you use to locate the rear axle? Im still not sure how to get the leaf in the right spot so the suspension can properly cycle. Ill probably end up taking apart the leaf and tacking the leaf up and then cyling it to make sure. Then I have to pray the leafs are in the exact same spot on the frame so im not dogalking down the road.
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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 10:34 AM
  #57  
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Man all I can hear on this thread is crickets
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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 10:37 AM
  #58  
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I just came inside from unloading my 3rd load of 1.5 tons of gravel.
I am beat....

You ride is coming along FAST. Not sure about the coil buckets, but I like what I see
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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 10:56 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by 4rnr
I did alot of research today and I think that im going to use a cv rear shaft with stock splines and extend the shaft. For the front it looks like a u-joint with a 8" spline kit, and extended.
On mine, I used a CV joint on the rear (this will eliminate all the vibrations that the u-joint won't and wouldn't) and an 8" spline on the front w/ the OEM front CV joint.

I had maybe like $100 parts tops going through local sources.

Crickets you say?

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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 03:12 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by waskillywabbit
On mine, I used a CV joint on the rear (this will eliminate all the vibrations that the u-joint won't and wouldn't) and an 8" spline on the front w/ the OEM front CV joint.

I had maybe like $100 parts tops going through local sources.

Crickets you say?

Do you have a stick and how many t-cases.

Yes crickets
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