Arizona Roll Call
#1241
#1242
[quote=snowshredder555;51833987]Finally got around to replacing the rear springs with OME's and putting in some new Bilsteins while relocating them from the inboard stock location to the outside portion of the frame.
What is the benefit of the relocation? And did you use 5125's or 5100's?
I'm close to replacing all 4 of mine and no one I've talked to thinks 5125's will work on my truck....
What is the benefit of the relocation? And did you use 5125's or 5100's?
I'm close to replacing all 4 of mine and no one I've talked to thinks 5125's will work on my truck....
#1243
[QUOTE=punkelberg;51836207]
I went with 5125 and mine were worn out. The rebound just wasn't happening, it would stick and not decompress like a shock should. Plus, I've alway's been an advocate of Bilstein ever since I experienced shock cavitation for the first time. With the same approximate length, compressed and extended as what the OME's are (with the 891's) along with similar valving the Bilstein's were a no brainer for me.
In theory:
I would get about an extra 1.5" of travel by moving them there. By moving them to a position like this, l l instead of / \ the overall droop with the same shock would increase. Now, the limiting factor is the ability of the rear control arm's to flex, as far as I can see with out actually testing it. My rear control arm bushings need replacing to so that'll be one of the next items to order up along with an extended brake line. When it max's out and the weight of the axle is on it, it looks as tight as a guitar string...not good...so I take bumps/ dips super slow.
1- Increased rear travel.
2- Increase of lateral stability for better body roll control.
3- Ease of service.
4- Small cost saving's for future replacement (just being honest)
5- I can fabricate/ weld so why not?
I'm sure there's more benefits to doing this but I can't think of any more BS to put down. I'd seen some one else do this to there rig and thought, YEAH! THAT'S A HELL OF A GOOD IDEA! I mean, TOYOTA has designed their new truck's this way, so there has to be something to it. The clearence between the shock and tire was enough to make me nervous after I tacked the brackets. But I went on with it anyway figuring that I have a grinder so I can fix it later if I didn't like it. Hope this helps. There's still more testing before I call it good but the holiday's are getting in the way.
As far as the front shock's are concerned, I've been reading up on the 1st Gen. Tundra struts and still have more research to do before I tackle this. But there seem's to be a lot of discussion on it and the Tacoma's strut. It's recommended to use the Tundra's because the valving is closer than it is with the Tacoma. With the Bilstein front struts, you get the adjustability of three locations as well. And I've read that those who've installed them usually do so on the lowest location and still achieve the lift desired. So, I'm in debate wether to use the front springs I have or chase after the 99' tall springs OR purchase something like the OME's...again, doing a ton of research before I pull the trigger. And reading through a 10-15 page thread, just to find the juice is really time consuming.
So here's a pic of how close the shock is to the passenger side rear wheel. Keep in mind, this is at full droop so the axle is being pulled to the P-side by the Track Bar.

-Ted
Finally got around to replacing the rear springs with OME's and putting in some new Bilsteins while relocating them from the inboard stock location to the outside portion of the frame.
What is the benefit of the relocation? And did you use 5125's or 5100's?
I'm close to replacing all 4 of mine and no one I've talked to thinks 5125's will work on my truck....
What is the benefit of the relocation? And did you use 5125's or 5100's?
I'm close to replacing all 4 of mine and no one I've talked to thinks 5125's will work on my truck....
In theory:
I would get about an extra 1.5" of travel by moving them there. By moving them to a position like this, l l instead of / \ the overall droop with the same shock would increase. Now, the limiting factor is the ability of the rear control arm's to flex, as far as I can see with out actually testing it. My rear control arm bushings need replacing to so that'll be one of the next items to order up along with an extended brake line. When it max's out and the weight of the axle is on it, it looks as tight as a guitar string...not good...so I take bumps/ dips super slow.
1- Increased rear travel.
2- Increase of lateral stability for better body roll control.
3- Ease of service.
4- Small cost saving's for future replacement (just being honest)
5- I can fabricate/ weld so why not?
I'm sure there's more benefits to doing this but I can't think of any more BS to put down. I'd seen some one else do this to there rig and thought, YEAH! THAT'S A HELL OF A GOOD IDEA! I mean, TOYOTA has designed their new truck's this way, so there has to be something to it. The clearence between the shock and tire was enough to make me nervous after I tacked the brackets. But I went on with it anyway figuring that I have a grinder so I can fix it later if I didn't like it. Hope this helps. There's still more testing before I call it good but the holiday's are getting in the way.
As far as the front shock's are concerned, I've been reading up on the 1st Gen. Tundra struts and still have more research to do before I tackle this. But there seem's to be a lot of discussion on it and the Tacoma's strut. It's recommended to use the Tundra's because the valving is closer than it is with the Tacoma. With the Bilstein front struts, you get the adjustability of three locations as well. And I've read that those who've installed them usually do so on the lowest location and still achieve the lift desired. So, I'm in debate wether to use the front springs I have or chase after the 99' tall springs OR purchase something like the OME's...again, doing a ton of research before I pull the trigger. And reading through a 10-15 page thread, just to find the juice is really time consuming.
So here's a pic of how close the shock is to the passenger side rear wheel. Keep in mind, this is at full droop so the axle is being pulled to the P-side by the Track Bar.

-Ted
Last edited by snowshredder555; Dec 16, 2011 at 09:10 AM. Reason: grammar...though there might be more I didn't catch.
#1244
Hahahaha! Had to give you a hard time Ted! I was gonna offer you my Chevy, but it's been struggling for traction in the rain, couldn't imagine the dissappointment in snow. If its any consolation, I had to get the Tacoma tugged out of the snow by a Subaru Outback a couple of years ago, that one hurt the pride!
-Ted
#1245
Great idea! I like the idea of out-boarding the rear shocks, Ted. There are lots of advantages, like you mentioned. I wish I had the space between the frame and tire, I'd love to try something similar. With the added stability, have you tried disconnecting the sway bar yet? I'm curious if the shocks would be able to compensate and prevent excessive body roll. That's the only complaint I've really heard about 3-links, that they can be scary on the road without a sway bar, but if you could overcome that by out-boarding, that would be awesome!
#1246
Great idea! I like the idea of out-boarding the rear shocks, Ted. There are lots of advantages, like you mentioned. I wish I had the space between the frame and tire, I'd love to try something similar. With the added stability, have you tried disconnecting the sway bar yet? I'm curious if the shocks would be able to compensate and prevent excessive body roll. That's the only complaint I've really heard about 3-links, that they can be scary on the road without a sway bar, but if you could overcome that by out-boarding, that would be awesome!
I have upper and lower bj's, new brakes pads, new steering rack bushings and tie-rod outters to install today. Hope I can get to it today and take it tomorrow or 1st thing Monday morning for an alignment.
And thanks for the kudo's Nate. Though I didn't come up with the idea I thought is was an excellent one so I copied it. So far, I'm happy with it.
-Ted
#1247
Great idea! I like the idea of out-boarding the rear shocks, Ted. There are lots of advantages, like you mentioned. I wish I had the space between the frame and tire, I'd love to try something similar. With the added stability, have you tried disconnecting the sway bar yet? I'm curious if the shocks would be able to compensate and prevent excessive body roll. That's the only complaint I've really heard about 3-links, that they can be scary on the road without a sway bar, but if you could overcome that by out-boarding, that would be awesome!
#1250
i'm going to let the cat out
alright i guess i will break the news i got ride of the runner but it has moved on to a good home i'm sure blknblu will take good care of her and i will do the same with his
#1251
#1252
glideraz-
how long did it take you to decide to sell the runner? I wanna get a 3rd gen! but i cant get past my mental block about selling both my 2nd gens. ive put both on craigslistas as a package deal 3 times and the minute i get the 1st responce i cant go through with it
how long did it take you to decide to sell the runner? I wanna get a 3rd gen! but i cant get past my mental block about selling both my 2nd gens. ive put both on craigslistas as a package deal 3 times and the minute i get the 1st responce i cant go through with it
#1253
glideraz-
how long did it take you to decide to sell the runner? I wanna get a 3rd gen! but i cant get past my mental block about selling both my 2nd gens. ive put both on craigslistas as a package deal 3 times and the minute i get the 1st responce i cant go through with it
how long did it take you to decide to sell the runner? I wanna get a 3rd gen! but i cant get past my mental block about selling both my 2nd gens. ive put both on craigslistas as a package deal 3 times and the minute i get the 1st responce i cant go through with it
-Ted
#1254
1st gen 4runners are my all time favorite yotas. But I always find sweet deals on pickups so I never end up with one. I'm a fan of the 22re.I don't think I would need any more power than I have now, on the toy that is... That's what my tundra is for
#1255
i like the 1st gens as well! i originally got my 94 from a dea agent for a 1000 bucks. he bought it in 94 and had perfect service records, no accidents the closest it got to offroad was pulling off the road to change a tire. and it ran beautiful i couldnt pass it up! now 4 years, 2 sets of hgs 1 tranny and what seems like 100s of hrs of wrench time. now i thought about trading up and getting an fj but seriously are the fjs really worth what toyota is selling them for
#1256
i like the 1st gens as well! i originally got my 94 from a dea agent for a 1000 bucks. he bought it in 94 and had perfect service records, no accidents the closest it got to offroad was pulling off the road to change a tire. and it ran beautiful i couldnt pass it up! now 4 years, 2 sets of hgs 1 tranny and what seems like 100s of hrs of wrench time. now i thought about trading up and getting an fj but seriously are the fjs really worth what toyota is selling them for
#1257
In the meantime, I now have this Toy:

New rubber is definately on the to do list. Other than that, I'm going to "try" to not do anything for awhile until I get a feel for the rig. Runs nicely and despite living in "no emissions" Pinal county recently, it went through with flying colors. So, kudos to Bryan for taking good care of his junk. The general plan is to keep this more mild as a camping/road trip vehicle. Time to change the sig...



