I'm sad that this thread died. I'd love to get some more power out of my 3.0

 

Can anyone tell me what happened with this thread? Did any progress get made? I am still interested in makeing some performance gains on my 3.0.

 

I can't help but want to cam the 3VZ-E. Instead of regrinding cams, I'd like to know where I could get cast cores. I wonder if cast cores are even available from some small company in Japan. Then I'll have to track down company with a cam grinding machine that won't laugh at me. I speculate the 3VZ-E would best benefit from much more lift, a bit more duration, increasing the area-under-the-curve, as it's refered to.

 

My thoughts to all this is:
In-dash remote fuel control, inline with the IAT and/or MAF/MAP sensor & o2 sensor. Trick the ECU into thinking the intake air is much more cooler, then the ECU will send more fuel for a richer mix, And override the o2 sensor. Then you could adjust the Air Fuel Ratio. Thus Remapping the ECM to any performance exhaust, intake, ratios, etc.. installed and would modify signals being read by the ECU and would not allow the ECU to restrict the air/fuel ratio because it has been fooled. Efficiency of combustion is improved (power) & you may even SAVE FUEL. What the */ @ am I talking about. Its a 3.0 not my Granma's Z28. I've also found that driving slower annoys old people, used to be the other way around!

 

Since this thread resurrected anyway, see the link below. There's an AFM swap that works great, have it on my truck and love it. Makes other mods like cams, headers and others more effective since you can actually draw in more air.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ap-3vze-60513/

 

You've got to turn your speakers around, the bass will give you a push.

 

Can't be done, old adage "No replacement for displacement"!

 

"You want to make the intake manifold lots better - cut the entire Air chamber off, and design your own. For example from your 3.0L car buddy.(That's me)
1) The air chamber should extend PAST the runners (Even on your style, this will improve charge flow to both the end runners which will always starve when places close to a wall.)
2) The throttle body pipe should be angled into the plenum to some degree."

Does this modified intake manifold fit the 3VZE??? Or can the same thing be done to the 3VZE??? That's exactly what I've been looking for.

 

Sorry, jumped the gun on that. Just read the rest of the thread and Suprathepeg, I want one!!!! Please fab this intake manifold... I beg you.

 

I know it's been years BUT !!!
Did this manifold ever come to use ? How well did it perform ?
I would like to have one lol either for a turbo or a sidedraft 48 weber carb for my sandrail, I currently have (3) 44 webers on a fabricated manifold but I use a ton of racing fuel and I think this modded mani would work better

 

Okay, so I have gone through this entire thread and there are some things that are missing. First of all, let's look at a combustion engine like the human body. It needs to breath, drink and expel waste. So let's look at breathing. The more restrictions you remove from the Engine to allow airflow the better. The colder that air is, the denser it will be which means more oxygen. With that, you get better volumetric efficiency. The better the efficiency, the more power and fuel mileage.

So how do we get this? First we port and polish what we can but don't go to big unless your adding a power adder. CAI will help in bringing the air to the engine. EGR system. Extremely detrimental to the engine. It's like running a hose from your butt to your mouth. Do you think thats a good idea? Find a way to eliminate it. Current PCV system is needed but it is a faulty system as is. The intake is sucking in hot exhaust gasses from the crankcase, oil, and water vapor. Again, bad idea and piss poor design. Since the system is needed to evacuate crankcase pressure, run a line from your valve cover to a oil catch can, out to a bybass valve and then to your exhaust. Your exhaust will always pull a vacum on your crankcase unlike your intake. This is an old school mechanics trick to gain HP by eliminating all crankcase pressure and by tightening up the cylinder rings to help prevent blowby. You must also allow fresh air to be pulled in to the crankcase and this can be done one of two ways. A simple breather attached to the other valve cover or run a line from your CAI to your valve cover. Like I said before, the colder the air, the better.
Get yourself a water/methonal injection kit to decrease intake air temps, help keep your intake valves clean "especially with Direct Injection Engines", and make your engine more efficient.

When it comes to drinking, make sure your car has the appropriate pump and injectors. Depending on the power increase, you may need bigger injectors. Also, just putting some in that offer better atimization can help. Pretty simple huh.

The exhaust system. This part of the car like the intake system is usually very restrictive. If you can port and polish exhaust ports do it. Same goes for upsizing the valves. If you can run headers, do it. When it comes to piping, factory is usually too small. Your piping size will be dependant on whether you go true dual or not and how much HP your generating. The key is to have no back pressure but you still need the ability for your exhaust to scavange. The less bends in the pipes, the better.

Now, with all that being said, it won't amount to a hill of beans if your ECM can't be flashed to accommodate for the changes. Will you feel some HP increase, sure you will. But not enough to justify the cost until you flash the computer.

Another thing, don't criticize someone for building a car that they want to build. Wouldn't it funny if this guy pulled up in a 2000 Camry with a 1MZ-FE and spanked your built 8 cylinder or 6 figure car? Can we say sleeper?