OK, toysrme here's your chance to help out. I have worked out pricing for almost everything but the upper intake. And I'm willing to invest in a seriously modified one if we can decide on a design that shows promise.

Here's what I've got in mind. The 3mm OB Throttlebody, then matching the size of the TB boring the plenum intake tube to open it up to more air. Are you still with me.

Then cut off the end of the plenum revealing the intake tube and runners, replacing that with a piece that is approximately 15.5" x 4" x 3" giving you give or take 186 cubic in. of interior air space. This would basicly be the same thing as what you have posted for the Camry plenum and would be bolt on. This would also give you a more efficient piece being tha the two end runners would have blenty of access to air. I'll do a cardboard moc-up tonight and post it up. However this would have to be close to $550-600 core.

If you are interested in putting the rubber to the road so to speak then here's your chance. I will cover the cost and put this into production if:

1. there are people who let me know they would be interested.

2. Toysrme and others are willing to contribute to the development through testing and concept development.

 

K here are some pics of the stock plenum and a rough mock-up of the proposed enlarged air chamber. Let me have it.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...g/DSCN0106.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...g/DSCN0107.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...g/DSCN0108.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...g/DSCN0109.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...g/DSCN0110.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...g/DSCN0111.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...g/DSCN0112.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...g/DSCN0113.jpg

As you can see this would be a lot bigger then what is there originally and it may have to be made a bit smaller to fit I don't' know yet.

 

get'er done I got 3vz-e cams on there way here and will be put on the grinding machine quickly so both mine and your products should be hitting the dynos around the same time

 

Ok, sure. Tho I'm not exactly sure how I can help you. There really isn't that much too it. Bandsaw the box off the runners, or make your own - then tig an aluminum box to it.

Do your math for the distance between the intake valve & the end of the intake runners & from the intake valve to the chamber wall facing the runners in your air chamber to see if the RPM that accoustic charging takes place is where you want it to be. Modify runner length to put it where you want it - if it needs changing.

 

This part is easy.

This is the complicated part, what are the factors to take into account here?

Also can I just use a box like my mock-up or do I have to taper it?

 

Oh and one more thing, to make this work I'll have to be able to use the vacuum lines, cold start injector and probably even the EGR in order to be legal. Is there any special set-up that needs to be taken into account with these?

 

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question517.htm

That the simple way of how it works. That's all you need 2. (I don't know much more than those general sites).

The way I've measured a few IM's; take yourself one of the flexible measuring things a seamstress, or taylor would use. Push it down your itnake runner until it hits an intake valve stem & stops. That'll be "close enough". Measure the full length of the runner, then measure again including the distance to the first wall in the air camber.

Use those to measurements in those basic calculations to find the general couple hundred RPM range the charging effect will work on.



Doesn't really matter for the vacuum lines. If you're keeping EGR, you'll need to keep a stock Toyota throttlebody B/C it has the 3-4 vacuum ports the throttle palte uncovers for EGR.

Nothing else is a problem, It's simply drill your holes & tap places anywhere you need to put a bolt.

 

OK this is uncharted territory for me but I'm willing to try it out. I think its reasonable to want this to work at between 3000 and 3500 RPM in order to be most effective no? Or should I try and put it higher up the powerband like around 4000 - 4500? Too high will just make it useless on a truck.

Here's a thought what about 2500 RPM? That would likely make it more efficient for everyday driving and therefore make for the best fuel economy. What exactly is the formula that I need to use for this?

 

Also how would this work with the stock ECU? will it try and compensate or is it hardwired for the stock plenum.

 

As long as you're in Open-loop, the ECU won't much care. AFA what rpm you want a little powerboost, I can't really help you, I don't drive a truck/runner & don't really know what you guys would want.

I don't think I would set it up for low personally. To me, if you're at low rpm & you want more power - you press the gas pedal more & that can solve the problem.

That's completely your call so don't worry, I'm not gonna second guess where ever you decide to try to put it. Just remember it litterally is only gonna work for say 200-300rpm.

 

So for the air chamber portion is there an ideal size or shape?

 

i have to say that, i feel the 3.0 has power it just can't use it due to the mass air flow. has any one tried any thing to solve this?

 

Yes, a couple people on the boards have tried to swap afm's. Some of them without any luck and others with no different gains.

 

the afm is not the cause of the power loss...maybe 1-2hp restriction but even that i doubt.

 

this thread, while interesting, died a few months ago.
what's the latest on the bored throttle bodies for the 2nd gen, is there still a core charge, and is it worth it?
downey also bores out your tb (they call it a power breather), but you have to send yours first, so there's downtime.
anyone who has a downey power breather for a 3vze or has another aftermarket bored tb I'd be interested in hearing from you

http://www.downeyoff-road.com/Engine...Injection.html
http://www.schaffter.com/cars/4r/pwrbreth.html

 

I am not going to be offering bored TBs as yet. I personally think that the 3mm of increased size is not enough. The 5vzfe, 3vzfe, and 7mge all use one that is 10mm larger. At this point I'm looking to find a way to retrofit the intake to use one of those or even a whole custom intake that will accept a larger TB.

Right now though I am still waiting on some ordered parts for the 3.0 project engine before I can install it. Then I can get some baselines on the intake mods. I had a financial hickup that has held me back but I should be back on track soon.

 

How did this ever pan out?

 

Right now I'm focusing on the exhaust and then tuning with MegaSquirt. The work on intake will happen after I evaluate the results of tuning.

 

has anyone evr tried advancing the cams for more low end power on the 3.0 ?

 

i would like to see a dyno shoot out