Scottz

Anyone know if I can remove the Panhard bar on my 94' 4Runner if I install Hiem mounted links to all pivots (Trac arms & Trailing arms). I'm looking into installing a set this weekend and would like to lose that thing.

Cebby

The panhard locates (centers) the axle under the truck. Installing heims does nothing to keep the axle centered. The only way I can think of to safely remove the panhard and keep it linked is to rework the links into a triangulated 4-link setup. If properly designed, this type of suspension should keep the axle centered under the rig.

toy283

On the other hand if you replaced all five links with heim jointed ones, articultion should be significantly improved. You must keep the panhard rod though with the suspension geometry as it is.

Scottz

I called a few fab shops that deal with Toyotas' and been told both. 2 shops said it could be removed because the heims will make the rearend stay centered since they get rid of the rubber mounted links and make them solid just like race trucks which have no panhard bar. Another shop that I bought the links from said they alway's run the Panhard bar but also wondered if it could be removed since the rearend has become solid mounted. So I think I will trying running with & without the rod and see how it handles. I will post my findings. Thanks again

anthony1

iTrader: (1)

You don't even have to drive it. If you can move the axle side ways after you took out the bar, it's not going to work. The stock link mount does allow lateral movement. Unless you plan to make the upper links a V shape.

Scottz

Yeah, I was just under it and I notice that same thing, The race trucks and prerunners I helped build have had upper links that go in closer to the center of the housing in more of a "V" formation so that would stop any side to side movement. I'm now thinking of removing the upperlinks and turning it into a 3-link arm that would mount to the stock frame pivot points but to a fab'ed up center axle mount that would keep it the same length as stock links so I can keep stock geomentry. I'm now on a mission to see if I can lose the Panhard bar.

Robinhood150

The thing is that every link, except one, in the stock setup is designed to be only in tension or compression, no bending at all. Once you remove the panhard bar you are trying to make the original links take bending stresses. If you fab up new links they'd have to be pretty beefy to take the kinds of loads you'd be placing on them. Plus, you don't want to design for stress, you want to design for bending. That means the links have to be even bigger to keep things from dynamically flexing and changing the geometry.

Think of it this way. Try to pull apart a tooth pick. You can't do it. Now try snapping it in half, pretty easy, huh. Almost every linked suspension out there is designed so that the links are in pure tension or compression. This is why you see the "V" in some linked suspensions without a panhard bar.

By the way, the one link that's not in tension or compression? The axle itself. Yup, it's a link too, it just doesn't look like one.

Scottz

I see, back and forth (good) side to side (bad) that explains how the wimpy links live so long ,the panhard bar saves them. I plan on using .188 wall 1-1/2" 4130 Chromoly with a 1" racing heim on the diff end and 2 7/8" heims to the frame side for the upper link. The lower links I already have and they have 1" heims on one end with the other end being a fixed uniball with the lower links being made of 1-3/4" chromoly. And after looking at the upper link frame mounts I can see what you're saying these things look like they will rip right off. I'm going to have to beef'em up or replace them.

Robinhood150

I would think those tubes would be plenty strong if they're triangulated like a normal suspension. But I haven't done the calculations.

For your original idea I think even those tubes wouldn't be strong enough and definately not stiff enough.

Scottz

Yeah, I think I'm going to have to do alot of gusseting & plating to make it live. and when I look at those stock frame mounts for the links I see them tearing off with new forces being placed on them Got My Work Cutout

RaceTaco

I think your 3 link idea is the best one if you want to lose the Panhard bar. I've done a few of these in my shop and and all you have to do is beef up the upper link mounts at the frame and do a custom mount on top of the diff. when your done it will look like a large A-ARM and make sure your mount on the diff is beefy there will be alot of side to side stress placed on it. you shouldn't need to do anything to the lower link mounts and I've even done them with leaving the lower links stock ( no hiems ). If you do this you will really free up the rearend with no more driveshaft rubbing your gas tank either. All the parts you are using will be plenty strong enough to handle the load. If you would like some pic's of the ones I've done leave me your email and I will send them. Good Luck