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Max torsion crank and rear lift ?

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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 11:33 PM
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viperdan's Avatar
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Max torsion crank and rear lift ?

Ok, so the Sdori bj spacers are on the way. I read somewhere that it's not a good idea to crank the torsion bars past the point where the distance between the top of the rim and the bottom of the fender measures 15". Currently its at 14". It seems that everyone cranks about 1.5" when they've got the spacers installed. Should I only do a 1" crank in the front then?

Also for the rear, I'm wondering how I should measure the height since it appears that the rear fenders are cut more "shallow." So the top of the rim to the bottom of the fender is different than the front. Currently on level ground my front is 14" and my rear is 12 1/8". I have a shell and I attempted to measure from the ground to the top of the cab just behind the front tire and compare it to the top of the shell in the rear behind the back tire. They both came out just around 67 1/2" running 30x9.5s, but measuring that way was difficult due to the different curves front and back.

The reason I ask is because I'm going to do an add-a-leaf in the rear and I see that www.suspensionconnection.com offers both a 2" and 3" add-a-leafs. Also I could do shackles for 1 1/2". I'm not sure which I should get. Assuming the all is level stock, then it would seem that the 2" add-a-leaf would be ideal in the rear with the 1" increase in the front.

My goal is to get a moderate, but effective lift for a decent price. I want the back to be slightly taller than the front to help prevent scraping and level things out when I have a rear load.

Sorry for the long post.

EDIT: also would I need any extra hardware/accessories to fit the 2" add-a-leafs if i were to get them?

Last edited by viperdan; Mar 28, 2005 at 11:44 PM.
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 03:34 AM
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I would also be quite interested in the answer to this post.
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 07:47 AM
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Jeez, no one?
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 08:43 AM
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Max. torsion bar height is listed here: http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/torsion/index.htm

As far as front and rear height, one option is to measure frame to ground height or body pinch weld to ground height. Find 2 points that are say 1/2 the wheelbase apart. Measure both heights, multiply the difference by 2 and that is how much higher one end is vs. the other.
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 12:33 PM
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Similar to what Roger said, I measured the pinch weld to ground just in front of the rear wheel well and just behind the front well. In my case it was for a body lift so I didn't bother with frame to ground measurements.

For my rear lift spring swap I went with Downey 3" lift springs. I am quite happy with the result. I was going to do 2" but Schaeffer talked me into the 3". After all was said and done it settled in at 2" above the starting point and it looks great. I also have the BJ spacers for the front but haven't installed yet (hopefully in the next couple of weeks) but my intention is to crank the t bars back down to stock height and realize more travel but no lift.

You might need a longer center pin for the rear leafs and maybe new u bolts. The Downey springs had 1 additional leaf over the stock. The u bolts fit with no problem but the center pin just barely made it. Not sure how your AAL solution will stack up, but you might want the extra parts on hand if you can't afford extra down time.

Good luck.
Mike
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 12:41 PM
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Heres a link to an old thread about my springs just to give you an idea of how it looks before and after.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ight=rear+leaf

Also after actually looking at the product your considering I see you get new center pins so you should be good to go.

Last edited by BLKNBLU; Mar 29, 2005 at 12:48 PM.
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