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lockers and snow?

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Old 06-19-2005, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by uberhahn
Keep in mind that the Aussie is a Positive Locking = always locked untill there is a difference in wheelspeed ( turning ). Unlike the Detroit (negative locking) = open until difference in torque on each wheel, when it locks.

Brain is good, selectable locking is better.
The lockright, ez and aussie all work exactly the same. When they get torque input, they lock. When you are on the throttle, they lock. They all unlock when you let off the throttle or are on it very lightly, all 3 will exhibit locker steer (which detroits will, too BTW, they arent unlocked all the time), they will all chirp tires if you are on the throttle and making a turn, and they will all make donuts and powerslides in the snow a lot more fun. It takes a little bit of getting used to, but they are far from dangerous if you have a brain in your head.
Who do i beleive
Old 06-19-2005, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 88yotaboy
Who do i beleive

Confusing huh!
Old 06-19-2005, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 88yotaboy
Who do i beleive
Read this, and you'll have you answer
Old 06-19-2005, 01:55 PM
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well im still a bit confused but thats ok... i still think that the aussie sounds like a smoother operating locker... so thats what im planning on.
Old 06-19-2005, 03:07 PM
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They are all "positive locking" lockers, and work in the same manner. They get enough torque on them, and they lock up. When the pressure on them is released, they unlock. The locking and unlocking is controlled with your right foot, not wheelspeed.
Old 06-19-2005, 03:19 PM
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the detroit i had would lock once YOU applied torque to it. You could drift around all day and not know its there. Press on the gas pedal the wheels are locked. They would allow alittle bit of ratching around turns but if you floor it you can squeal one tire around the corner.

I didnt care for too much on the road. Call my a wuss but I dont like all that click and banging. You can feel it in the vehicle and get rear steer in the twisties. I didnt care for it too much. I would probably TRY the Aussie but I dont imagine it being to much better. For that reason I wouldnt own a locker if it wasnt selectable.....

I had a manual tranny too. So you can feel it even more, since there will be a slight amount of play in the driveshaft. I heard on an automatic its alot better....
Old 06-22-2005, 12:26 PM
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Ok i emailed aussie locker and here is what i emailed and what they said.
My only
> concern is how the vehicle will handle on the highway
> in the snow with a front aussie locker and 4 wheel
> drive engaged. Also can i run a front aussie and have
> the hubs locked but the 4 wheel drive disengaged on
> the highway in winter?
Thank you for your interest in our products.

We do not recommend a front locker installation if you will be driving
on an
icy highway in 4WD with hubs locked. Now having said that, we have
many
customers that love their front locker operation in deep snow, so it is
ice
that is the worst culprit. If you have locking hubs you can run in 4WD
with
one hub unlocked. We have a number of customers that tell us they run
with
their hubs locked all the time, but the 4WD disengaged, but we have
never
done that personally. We hope we have answered your questions.
Hmm well now im not realy sure of what i am going to do.. im pretty much sure about getting a rear aussie but ill have to do some more thinking about it before i get a front aussie.
Old 06-22-2005, 01:04 PM
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I'm spooled front and rear w/ 35/12.5-15 MT/R's. HARD Locked...

We generally don't get just snow - we get glaze ice first with a thin layer of snow on top. The worst possible stuff...

So, what do I do in those conditions? Air down to about 10 PSI, don't turn in the front hubs, be real easy on the throttle, and drive carefully, and I don't go much more than 15 to 20 MPH. If I have trouble, the first thing I do is try to find snow on the shoulder of the road, and as a last resort, lock up the front.

With just a rear locker, I do better than 95% of the other people in 4x4. If people want to pass, let'm. Usually I see'm a mile or too down the road anyway - off in the ditch.

This also works great in dry snow up to about 8" in depth, I rarely use 4x4 at all. If it's wet heavy stuff, 4 to 6" is generally the point at which I lock up.

Deep snow (greater than 8" of dry stuff) is an absolute blast. I air down to pressures WAY below what I run in the rocks - 4 to 6 PSI offers awesome traction and if the conditions are right will allow you to get up on top of the snow pack. It is so cool to be in thigh deep snow and only cut a 14" deep track!

IMO - get the lockers YOU want and learn to drive your rig. It won't take long.
Old 06-22-2005, 01:09 PM
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Thanks crawler#976 you give me hope about lockers .
Old 06-22-2005, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by crawler#976
I'm spooled front and rear w/ 35/12.5-15 MT/R's. HARD Locked...

We generally don't get just snow - we get glaze ice first with a thin layer of snow on top. The worst possible stuff...

So, what do I do in those conditions? Air down to about 10 PSI, don't turn in the front hubs, be real easy on the throttle, and drive carefully, and I don't go much more than 15 to 20 MPH. If I have trouble, the first thing I do is try to find snow on the shoulder of the road, and as a last resort, lock up the front.

With just a rear locker, I do better than 95% of the other people in 4x4. If people want to pass, let'm. Usually I see'm a mile or too down the road anyway - off in the ditch.

This also works great in dry snow up to about 8" in depth, I rarely use 4x4 at all. If it's wet heavy stuff, 4 to 6" is generally the point at which I lock up.

Deep snow (greater than 8" of dry stuff) is an absolute blast. I air down to pressures WAY below what I run in the rocks - 4 to 6 PSI offers awesome traction and if the conditions are right will allow you to get up on top of the snow pack. It is so cool to be in thigh deep snow and only cut a 14" deep track!

IMO - get the lockers YOU want and learn to drive your rig. It won't take long.
Theres what I was waiting on.
Old 06-22-2005, 01:38 PM
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Well I will be swapping in front and rear 3rds with 4.88s and lockrites so Ill let you know how driving on the street goes, open to full lock lol we'll see.....
Old 06-22-2005, 02:24 PM
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please do let us know.....
Old 06-22-2005, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Thank you for your interest in our products.

We do not recommend a front locker installation if you will be driving
on an icy highway in 4WD with hubs locked. Now having said that, we have
many customers that love their front locker operation in deep snow, so it is
ice that is the worst culprit. If you have locking hubs you can run in 4WD
with one hub unlocked. We have a number of customers that tell us they run with their hubs locked all the time, but the 4WD disengaged, but we have never done that personally. We hope we have answered your questions.



Aussie must have one hell of a Department of Obfuscation.

Last edited by gwhayduke; 06-22-2005 at 04:55 PM.
Old 06-23-2005, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 88yotaboy
please do let us know.....
To bad its not winter, but Ill give you an opinion coming from a person who has never driven a locked vehicle and if the rear locker will be liveable with a daily driver (Only driving about 15 hwy miles a day). Im sure the trail performance will be worth any kind of inconveniences on road even though I will only trail ride once a month or so
Old 10-28-2017, 02:18 PM
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Uninstalling Detroit locker

Hi i have i bought a 1987 sas 4runner with front Low Pinion 5.29 Detroit Locker Third Member . Im wanting to take autolocker out. I dont have any experience with differentials and i know regearing is tricky, but im not regearing hear is it easy to uninstall locker?

Last edited by Brooktrout13; 10-28-2017 at 02:19 PM.
Old 11-01-2017, 08:19 PM
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I don’t have Info for you but I’m going to bump this for you because you dug up a 12 year old thread. Hope it helps.

Welcome to yotatech.
Old 11-02-2017, 08:59 AM
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Brooktrout, you really should start your own thread on this. to remove the locker you will need to install something else, either the stock open diff spider gears or a limited slip. you will need a torque wrench and dial indicator to put it back together with proper backlash when you're done, so no it isn't easy. Your easiest option is to sell the whole 3rd member and install another 5.29 low pinion 3rd.

Too bad Rocklobster didn't give any closure on the auto locker in the front during winter debate. I'm guessing it's tricky to drive since I found in the past with an auto locker just in the rear I could correct my steering around a corner just by getting on and off the throttle, off throttle it turns more, on throttle it wants to push. I can imagine what that would be like front and rear on ice! but hey, keep your foot down and power out!
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