Lift needed for 35 inch tires
#3
Typically, 6" for 35x12.50, but depends how much you want to cut:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10
http://www.trailslesstraveled.com/ar...y-lift-height/
If you go with 35x10.50 on the stock rims, there has been at least one person to run them with NO lift:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/how-fit-35s-stock-3rd-gen-74326/
Note: if you actually take this thing offroad, you really increase the chance of breakage with 35's
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/ifs-not-weak-7-5-diff-83777/
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10
http://www.trailslesstraveled.com/ar...y-lift-height/
If you go with 35x10.50 on the stock rims, there has been at least one person to run them with NO lift:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/how-fit-35s-stock-3rd-gen-74326/
Note: if you actually take this thing offroad, you really increase the chance of breakage with 35's
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/ifs-not-weak-7-5-diff-83777/
#4
4" bracket lift...
check out my sig.. I am running the min lift for 35x12.50 with out rubbing... just kissing.... It took some decent pounding in the front, and I had to spacer my low pro bumpstops to get them back to stock height... but i dont rub at full compression.. the rear with 56" leafs took some trimming of the sheet metal, about 1" on the leading edge at the bottom...
A 1" BL would allow for low pro bump stops and no rubbing up front... but I would rather beat my metal...
You do have a slighty greater chance of breakage, I now carry a spare CV, but only when hundres of miles from home... thou I think the rear ARB really reduces the chance, as its much harder to induce spin and grab when 3 tires have postive traction... and with a 22RE there usually isnt the power to spin 3 tires, unless its on snow/ice
Gears are the big thing. I have 4.88's and 4lo isnt even close to enough for decent crawling, even with the added inertia of my 30lb flywheel (which made a HUGE difference). 5.29's or 5.71's still wouldnt be enough, need crawler gears in the t-case... but I can suffice on most trail riding, the worst is starting on steep hill when crawling, or climbing a rock from a stop..
All that being said, my truck is sooo much more capible with the 35's than it was with 33's.. made one of the biggest differences to date...
check out my sig.. I am running the min lift for 35x12.50 with out rubbing... just kissing.... It took some decent pounding in the front, and I had to spacer my low pro bumpstops to get them back to stock height... but i dont rub at full compression.. the rear with 56" leafs took some trimming of the sheet metal, about 1" on the leading edge at the bottom...
A 1" BL would allow for low pro bump stops and no rubbing up front... but I would rather beat my metal...
You do have a slighty greater chance of breakage, I now carry a spare CV, but only when hundres of miles from home... thou I think the rear ARB really reduces the chance, as its much harder to induce spin and grab when 3 tires have postive traction... and with a 22RE there usually isnt the power to spin 3 tires, unless its on snow/ice

Gears are the big thing. I have 4.88's and 4lo isnt even close to enough for decent crawling, even with the added inertia of my 30lb flywheel (which made a HUGE difference). 5.29's or 5.71's still wouldnt be enough, need crawler gears in the t-case... but I can suffice on most trail riding, the worst is starting on steep hill when crawling, or climbing a rock from a stop..
All that being said, my truck is sooo much more capible with the 35's than it was with 33's.. made one of the biggest differences to date...
#6
Everything is easier, the added height was enough to make the energy required to get over a rock less, the diffs are highenouh now I dont drag them as often. It seems like its not enough to make a difference (even coming from 33.7" Swampers), but wow.. .the 35 is so much better than the 33... I can tell wheeling with buddies that have 33's, I have an easier time in just about everything... even without using my locker..
#7
Depends. If you want to tub the firewall and trim the fenders you can fit some pretty big tires with no lift.
When I was getting ready for my SAS, I stuck my 36"s on just to see what they would look like. I was running a lift shackle in the rear and ball joint spacers up front, with factory set torsion bars. Basically I had a 1.5" lift. This was totally driveable on the street, and would have only required fire wall tubbing to make it offroadable.

Last edited by BeaterToyota; Nov 19, 2006 at 02:57 PM.
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#8
Well I was planning a 4" suspension lift, and was hoping for 35x12.5x15's. What offset shoud I run for the following considering that lift and wanting to have a nice agressive stance, also what size rim width is recommended
35x12.5x15
33x12.5x15
35x12.5x15
33x12.5x15
Last edited by teamafx; Nov 20, 2006 at 06:53 AM.
#11

the middle truck

that tacoma is for sale ... here
What do shocks have to do with tire fitment? Shocks dont control lift, they absorb shocks to the suspension.. I would guess on a taco you need at least a 4" bracket, even with the narrow 10.50, or a BL... but a regular spacer lift will not do it...
#16
my buddy is running a 3 inch body lift with 35 on his 88 15X8 rims 3.75 back spacing no issues except rubbing on the front mud flaps....at full stuff so i say 3 inch just got to get the right rims or you could fork out the money for a 4" braket lift i suppose
#18
#20
thats the same guy who can follow tube buggies around in his stock truck. He's so cool.
People with third gens are running 315s with less lift, but some fender trimming and shaving of the A-arms. For 2nd or first gen, i think 4 inches will be a min, especially with out any trimming
People with third gens are running 315s with less lift, but some fender trimming and shaving of the A-arms. For 2nd or first gen, i think 4 inches will be a min, especially with out any trimming



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