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IFS Lockrite install

Old Oct 26, 2005 | 07:08 AM
  #1  
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From: Monett, MO (Springfield)
IFS Lockrite install

Anyone have an idea as to the amount of time to install a lockrite in an IFS front? See if I've got this about right:

Pull Hubs
Pop off lower BJs
Pop off Outer Tie rods
Pull out spindle, etc to get off end of cv shaft (do I have to pull off upper bjs as well?)
Undo CV's
Pull CV's
Pull Half Shafts
Remove Front diff cover
Install locker.

Can you get the cover off and locker in without pullin the diff?

While im at it im also goina remove the studs for the cv's and install bolts, anyone know what size they are off hand?

Thanks!
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 08:14 AM
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The front diff cover has a mount that mounts to the crossbrace. I'm not sure how you would get that off without pulling it all the way out.

Here are some pics I found for you:

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...lr%3D%26sa%3DN



Looks like ya gotta take it out, and that explains why shops charge sooooo much to do thge front.
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 08:27 AM
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Ive got the procomp front lift, and im thinking there might be enough room to support the diff, pull the mounting bolt out, drop the front crossmember, and squeeze the cover out... but if someone knows if its possible, that would be nice.
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 08:50 AM
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Last time my buddy's shop did one, it took them like 3 hrs just to get it apart. (on a lift)

its not an easy job
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 09:23 AM
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you dont need to pull the hubs or the spindles or any balljoints to get the diff out.

just unbolt the cv flanges, unbolt the diff, unbolt the driveshaft and drop it out.
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 09:25 AM
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Is there enough play to ge the cvs off the diff without pullin the bj's?

The goal is to get a locker here tomorrow by 5, install it and have it ready for a competition by friday... gotta work friday too. Competition starts saturday at 8
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 10:04 AM
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You don't have to pull the hubs and CV's....see this http://www.gearinstalls.com/ifs.htm

mark where the bearing caps go. Mark the ring gear. The ring gear will probably have to come off but no big deal there.

Last edited by ZUK; Oct 26, 2005 at 10:06 AM.
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 10:08 AM
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ZUK, awesome! I will get this locker in, and off to compete i go! I'll let everyone know how it works out, and what I break!

BTW I remember reading it in a thread somewhere, but left and right cv's are the same, correct?
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 10:11 AM
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One last thing, do I have to take the ring gear off to get the locker in, or can it squeeze in the window?

On the rears, I've been told that you cant get the cross pin out without removing the ring gear.... anyone know?
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 10:14 AM
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Sorry Zuk, i just read the rest of your response.... you're on top of it as usual! is the front ring gear a press fit on the carrier? Any tricks or techniques anyone can pass on would be appreciated!
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 11:33 AM
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From: 61° 6.03'N, 149° 41.27'W
Stick the carrier in the freezer and the ring gear in a sink of hot, hot water (better yet, pour a couple kettles of boiling water in the sink). Should slide right back together.
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 11:46 AM
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when I removed mine I just unbolted the drive flanges and the 4 bolts on either arm that hold the ball joint to the arm and I was able to pull the hubs and cv's back out of the way. Once the hubs and cv are out of the way then its 3 bolts to the ground.
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Old Oct 27, 2005 | 06:10 AM
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Lock Right is in, sneakin outta work around 3ish... should have it done by midnightish at the latest... Will let ya guys know how it works out... Thanks for the help!
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Old Oct 27, 2005 | 09:55 AM
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I took out the front diff on my 86 stock 4runner with out taking out the CVs. i is a little work to wiggle them out but not too bad. to swap out stock manual diff to put in auto diff 4.38's it took me only 2 hrs and i am NOT mechanically inclined!
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Old Oct 27, 2005 | 05:00 PM
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half way through... all is good. Diff came out with no pullin the cv's. locker is in, now its back together time.
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Old Oct 27, 2005 | 08:56 PM
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All done!!! WOOHOO locked front and rear!

Lessons learned:
Break the CV's from the Diff, remove the front diff bolt, the pass rear bolt, and (w/ IFS lift) remove the two bolts that attach the diff to the bracket on the drivers side.

DO NOT Remove the front crossmember (REALLY BAD IDEA). I removed mine, and in the 6 hours it was apart, the frame moved about 1/4 of an inch.... BFH fixed that, but learn from me, just dont remove it, you can get the diff out without takin it out.

Install the lockright, reinstall the diff (bracket bolts first, then rear pass bolt, then front bolt) attach the cv's and wheel away!

Last edited by colsoncj; Nov 3, 2005 at 04:57 AM.
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Old Oct 29, 2005 | 08:03 AM
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Let us know how that thing works in the front.

James
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 08:06 PM
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yea man how did this work out over the weekend?
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 04:53 AM
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over the weekend it was great! it has its plus side and neg side. Personally, id do it again. heres what happened...

hill climbs on real loose rock: no problem, huge improvment!
mud: no problem, another huge improvement!
obstacle course: made things easier, but did slide me around a couple times, all in all it was still an improvement.
river runs: this is were it got tricky... with the wet rocks, tryin to keep my tires on top of the rocks required a lot of finesse.... the truck continually wanted to slide itself into the biggest hole it could find, and did several times. i hung both diffs a few times on rocks with both wheels in the air, but it wasnt anything the truck couldnt handle, and never got me stuck... i'll post a few pics when i get them

i would do it again in a heartbeat... it takes a little to get used to it, and be prepared to slide into a bigger hole, but i love it, plus you should be aimin for the biggest hole anyway
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 04:58 AM
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Oh, also tried to break something or get stuck... couldnt accomplish either over the weekend.

this weekend im redoing to front bearings and ball joints, then it will be off to try again!
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