How strong are they in reverse when the load is on the coast side (I believe it's the coast side)? If I go up an obstacle backwards do I have to worry about grenading my rear diff (don't ask me why I'd go up an obtacle backwards ) Would the axle break first, or the diff? From the Pirate thread I posted in Cebby's regearing post, it sounds like my 4.88 diffs are the strongest toyota installed.

Steve

 

One of your front CV joints would explode before either of the ring and pinions flinched. Only if your R&P was howling like a coyote due to severe wear/ lack of oil would it go first. Its intentionally designed that way.

Aftermarket gears may be a different story. Still I think it would take a lot of wear to make even the poorest quality gear go before a CV.

Like i've said before, i'm no physics professor. FWIW

 

Yeah, I figured the CVs would die first, but the reason I ask is because I've heard of people chipping a tooth while trying to pull people out in reverse. People say to try to tow people in forward gears.

I can imagine that if I have a locker in the rear then it's possible to put more stress on the rear axle than the front axle, circumventing the CV problem. It's more academic I guess, I was just curious, though.

 

Pulling people out in reverse is definately a bad idea in a stock IFS rig or, say, an FJ-80, due to both diffs running on the coast side in reverse (all those rigs mentioned have reverse cut fronts). I you were crawling (i.e. no hopping that normally takes out CVs) I would not be surprised to see a front R&P take a crap. People grenade front R&Ps all the time so it would not be unusual. So in short, I would bet on the front going before the rear....

 

Using your gears backwards makes em like 30% weaker due to the teeth design. Try to avoid,especially with a locker, to overstress them.
I've allready had to replace the R&P on my own vehicle several times and some others, even a 2WD once!
Since I use a high pinion front diff I never had problems in the front again. No cure for the back though
I'm thinking about swapping in a Landcruiser diff. They seem to be idiot proof and never fail.
I think that solution would fit me..:pat:

 

Are you talking about a whole Landcruiser axle? Because the only diff that would fit would be the front high pinion one which of course would be a terrible idea for a rear axle...

what do you mean by "no cure for the back?"

 

No cure for the back: I mean to say I swapped in everything from original to aftermarket stuff. The strongest seem to be the V6 style E locker. (the only one I haven't broken yet).
I plan on swapping the whole rear axle since the R&P are I believe 9" and they will never fit an 8" axle. I can get a labndcruiser rear axle with e locker for some 1000 USD. Doesn't seem to be a bad deal. Have to add up a new 4.88 R&P though.
And I allready are using the high pinion diff up front. My front prop shaft really likes the new smaller angle from the high pinion.
Now I can add a further 2 inches off lift without angle problems.

 

So you have an FZJ-80 entire front axle in the front of your rig, or just the diff?

FZJ-80 rears are freakin nice. e-locker, bigger ring gear, and full floating. I want one too!

 

Actually I swapped the front axle, panhard bar, both the large carrier arms and the swaybar from a FJ70 series. And added an ARB. The coils are from a 80 series front axle.
This is almost identical to the FZJ80 but a bit smaller. I used two 1 1/4 inch spacers to add some track width. And welded everything on so I have a 3-4 inch lift.

I've got all the parts needed for swapping disc brakes onto my drum brake Runner axle, but the FZJ80 is a lot stronger.
So considering my engine swap will provide me some 210 hp I think I'm gone go for the larger R&P. Just don't know what to do with my current 8" E-locker. Sell it and use the cash for the 80 rear axle or save some money and put the E locker in my Suzuki project.