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Elocker stuck (locked) any suggestions?

Old Jul 22, 2009 | 10:26 PM
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Elocker stuck (locked) any suggestions?

I just finished my elocker project using a donor axle with the elocker already installed.

I got everything wired up using the factory ECU and switch using a diagram I found here. When I pushed the button the locker immediately locked. When I pushed the button again (to unlock) nothing happened. I tried driving a bit and it just won't unlock.

I checked the wiring and the correct (unlock) side of the motor is getting +12V and the lock side is getting zero. I assume this is correct.

I did read about motors binding but was wondering if there was something else I could try before disassembling the motor or if anyone has good instructions on fixing the motor.
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 12:16 AM
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Do you hear the motor turning? If so jack one wheel and turn it with your hands, it has to unlock.

If you don't hear the motor unlocking then your motor brushes must be stuck. It happened to me once with my RR E-Locker and now I've the same problem with the FR one.

David
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 05:08 AM
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I do not hear the motor turning. After taking it apart and putting back together is it pretty reliable, or should I expect the same problem in the future? I called the dealer this morning and they must have gotten the wrong part because they said the motor alone was $855.00 If anyone has a part number or approx. price it would be appreciated!
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 09:26 AM
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I figured it out! The ECU or switch must have been bad. I just used the relay method and it works beautifully. Sure beats pulling the motor out.
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 11:27 AM
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Either way locked or working, you would have been ready for this weekend
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Old Jul 24, 2009 | 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by jeremy9allen
Either way locked or working, you would have been ready for this weekend
True. Talk about last minute though. What a relief.
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Blizzard
Do you hear the motor turning? If so jack one wheel and turn it with your hands, it has to unlock.

If you don't hear the motor unlocking then your motor brushes must be stuck. It happened to me once with my RR E-Locker and now I've the same problem with the FR one.

David
I know that this is an old thread but I need some help as well.

I've just performed an SAS with donor axles w/ e lockers front(HP) and rear(SP). I used the 12volt guy wiring harness. I can hear the motor turning on both axles but the indicator light stays on. I tried rolling the truk foward and backward with no luck, then I tried jacking up one side of the truck and turning the wheel(repeat for other side for good measure). Both axles are still locked. Any suggestions?
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 05:23 AM
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So neither axle will unlock? Is it possible the indicator light is just malfunctioning and that the axles are really unlocked? If not, I would check the wiring again. I could see one axle - but both? Sometimes to get it to unlock I have to turn the wheel slightly to one side and it unlocks immediately (i.e. driving in a straight line takes longer to unlock)
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 04:53 PM
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From: Port Arthur, Tx
Originally Posted by pepsilvr
So neither axle will unlock? Is it possible the indicator light is just malfunctioning and that the axles are really unlocked? If not, I would check the wiring again. I could see one axle - but both? Sometimes to get it to unlock I have to turn the wheel slightly to one side and it unlocks immediately (i.e. driving in a straight line takes longer to unlock)
I figured out my problem and now I have some more questions. I removed the actuator and noticed that my wires going into the actuator are corroded and the insulators on all of the wires are dry rotted so I just got through unlocking it in the diff and removed the gear from the end of the actuator and put it back together. My first question is can I safely drive the truck like this? Second question is does anyone know where I can get a new actuator other than Toyota?
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