I have a line on some used Cruiser coils for Cheap. (hopefully)

I will be adding the ball joint spacers in the front and cranking the rear t-bars a little to match.

I can make the LSVP Bracket myself and will be replacing the rear brake lines.

My question comes to the Pan-Hard Bar itself. Some of you have said use a Drop bracket, some say use a Lift bracket. Or use both.

But what about this ? Its made buy.. Uggh...(Please dont flame me for this) Nitrous Enterprises ... Adjustable Panhard bar.

Do to the fact I have no rear roof, no rear window, no spare tire, I have ALLOT less weight in the back than you guys so Im going to have to "Dial in" the rear bar. (Maybe even Cut the coils down a bit)

Heres the link.
http://www.nitrousenterprises.com/panhard.html

Pictures





Im hoping someone here can maybe make one and sell it. Or give me an idea on how to build it myself.

Would this Work ? is there anything else I need to worry about ? any other Ideas ? thoughts ?, comments?, feedback ?

THANKS

 

Not to worry Michael, glad you posted this.

NoEthics didn't make that part at all. They bought one part retail from Sleeoffroad.com, as anyone can. Slee has no affiliation with No Ethics.

In fact if anyone is looking for a 4th gen adj. panhard, I would wait as REAL options might appear later. I will say it is totally unnecessary for under 3-3.5" of lift on the 4th gen.

All NE did was weld it to a 4Runner panhard and advertise it as if they "developed" it. How many 4Runner businesses has he ripped off now? I'm starting to loose count

If you want it, Slee sells it as the 80 adjuster which you can weld to any compatible panhard. Talk to Ben, he handles 4Runner and Toy Truck stuff.

 

Drop brkt. on the frame or lift brkt. on the axle would probably work as well if not better. Why? Because the panhard rod really wants to be as close to horizontal as possible to function properly.

Why is this? Fire up your calulator and enter "0" and "COS" and you'll get 1.000, then enter "1"05 "COS" and get 0.966. This means for a horizontal (i.e. 0 degree) panhard rod, it'll pull the axle to one side 3.4% of it's length for a +/- 15 degree angle change. Now lets say the panhard is sitting at 15 degrees at rest. So "15" "COS" is 0.966 and lets say the drivers side tire is at full droop and pulls the panhard rod down 15 degrees more. So now it is at 30 degrees, "30" "COS" is 0.866, so now the panhard rod will pull the axle 11% of its length towards the passenger side. So assuming a 3' long panhard rod, with a horizontal rod, the axle moves 1.25" and with a 15 degree panhard rod it moves about 4". This is what pulls the driveshaft into contact with the gas tank/skid plate.

The adjustable rod takes care of the longer distance between the two ends due to the lift, but does nothing for the angle.

 

Ahh...... That makes sense.

So with that said, I should use both a Drop bracket and a lift bracket. and hopefully all the angles will be right on.

Do I even need to worry about the panhard rod length than ?

Or should I use all 3 ? (Drop bracket, lift bracket, Rod adjuster)

One other Thing Mr. Brown whats it like being super Genius ? hahaha

Im just kidding..

 

Just simple high school geometry. Hard to say, you could of course use all 3, 1 may be sufficient (least cost and install time), a drop and lift bracket together might be a good setup, since instead of having one very long drop -or- lift bracket, you could split the difference (and the leverage) between the two. Ideal setup if bar level and under no stress at rest.

When I used to run a torque rod on the front of my '85, I had both a lift bracket on the axle but then also went to an adjustable rod to ease installation. When I first installed the stock rod, I literally had to use a come-a-long to twist the axle into position to get the bolts in the torque rod. That did not seem like a good setup and was a PITA to work on, so that's when I went to the adjustable rod approach.