Looking for some info regarding "other" front suspension lifts. I am mainly looking at aftermarket lifts that keep the CV's pretty much stock angle. I am having a tough time finding a front kit for a 4Runner.

Instead of coils spacers, Tundra coils, and OME's what other lifts are recommended for approx. 3-4 inches. I see one or two people have Trailmaster lifts. SC4Runner is using a 6 inch Trailmaster and by the looks of his set up it appears the CV's etc are nice and level.

I am wondering if the lack of these "other" lifts are due from :
No availability,
Not recommended,
Etc...

Thank you for your input and if you have a pic of another set up please post it with a description. SC4Runner, please chime in here too!!!

 

Just do a coil or spacer lift and do a diff. drop kit.

 

I would say that trailmaster has no application for the 3rd gens... The folks using it run the Tacoma front and very long rear coils with a bunch of other stuff to even it out?

This is what I found out about the trailmaster for the tacoma.

"Utilizes a 2nd hydraulic strut and eliminates the upper control arms
Lowers the front differential, lower control arms & steering knuckles, relocates all OE suspension components for easier alignment and proper driveline angles Integrated crossmembers tie front suspension components together for greater strength and durability
Reduces caster/caber changes, maintains OE C.V. joint angles
SSV shock absorbers included
Recommended tire size: up to 33" diameter
V6 Engine Only"

They also don't recommend using the trailmaster with a bodylift.

That sucker is also $1500 for the 6" front only and it seems to be alot of work.

You could always get a 1" diff drop to get the cv to a more reasonable angle.

I think 3" suspension lift/3" bodylift is the max "safe" recommended lift.

 

I wanted to make sure there wasnt another aftermarket set up that was a bolt on system out there somewhere. I kind of figured that was the reason why many are piecing systems together (Tundra springs, spacers, etc) since there wasnt anything available for 3rd generation applications.

I would rather use an aftermarket system that is complete and was a bolt on system without any fabrication, etc.

I have OME 891s sitting in my garage and wanted to make sure there wasnt anything else out there before I start spending $$$ to complete my lift.

Anyone else? Thanks.

 

Grimpy seems to have nailed it. I also would like to get more lift for 285's in the future w/o a body lift but it's either real expensive (trailmaster) or you have to piece together a ton of stuff.

Many here have the PP 1" lift springs. I've PM'd Lee a few times and he's thinking of adding spacers to his lift springs to get more height. This would probably put you at over 4". The only prob is then you'd need drop brackets to get your angles right b/c everything I read is that more than 3" on the 3rd gens require drop brackets and extension items (for brakes and stuff).

Once someone has proven something works is the only time that I'd consider redoing my setup (Revtek spacer kit and Bilsteins). I may one day just go with bamachem's setup but I've been fighting the temptation.

 

Good point.
I have a friend who has a massive rubicon jeep who also is a guide up at paragon. He has done lifts in the past and recommended that I try to do alittle more investigation to find an aftermarket set up that has a "complete" set up. That way the CV's and drive angles would remain close to stock, etc.

I want the both of two evils...I want to lift the ride but without premature wear or broken parts. So far my 4runner has be great and I don't want to be replacing CV's, etc... plus my wife would kill me

 

read my sig. I have not had one issue with breaking an axle or any other carnage due to substandard products. The nature of off-road wheeling will increase the likelihood of breakage, but a frankenstein setup is not weaker due to not being offered as a complete kit.

I would not waste my money on any Fabtech or trailmaster tacoma lift for a 3rd gen. You are relying too much on tires for added ground clearance.

 

Thanks. I am curious to see how SC4Runner made his work. I sent him a PM regarding his build. I will take a look into your setup.

 

I have had the PP stup and my wife has it one here SR5. it is good. Close to 1.5" of lift. However, at close to $800 for springs and HD bilsteins there is not a cost advantage of it. I iniitally went with it b/c I DID NOT want anything over 2". People have had good results with adding spacers to the PP springs, but If you are considering 285s NOW, then save some $$$. You will end up at the same place either way.

 

FilthyRich, don't get the last sentence. Are you saying that 285's cost big $ or that the PP springs with spacers will cost big $. I'm thinking the latter.

The only reason I'm so big on PP is that a buddy works there. I've gotten a bunch of my stuff for pretty good deals, at least better than what I'd get searching a ton on the internet. I just ordered some front Wet Okoles today w/ piping. I think retail is almost $300 and I got mine for $180. Can't wait to get them. Will def post pics. Back to the lift stuff...

 

Well I pretty much summed up as much as I could in the PM...

Anyways, the only real modification I had to do to make the trailmaster work on the 4runner was drill 3 new holes on the "strut mount plate". The only difference between the Tacoma front end is that the front strut mouting holes are in a different position.

I however bought this kit from the guys at Bentup.com. It had been cut off of a Tacoma that had done a SAS. I had all the parts, except a few misc nuts and bolts.



I took it all apart and cleaned everything. I sanded most of the painted metal and repainted with about 4-5 coats of semi-gloss high quality rustoleum.


This before I painted it.

The hardest part about putting this on was to take off the entire IFS and re-place it with the needed parts to accomodate the lift. The entire process took about 4 days. We ran into minor problems.... Mainly with trying to get a bolt out that had been seized. An impact wrenched helped us throuhg most of it, but there were a few areas were we couldnt get it in there.

Also, I was a dumbass and stripped the allen nut that holds the diff in the rear, and I had to take off a lot of other things to get that out. It was a big pain.

Here it is with most of the stock stuff off:


Some parts:


Finally with the braket on there:



Tires back on!



Obviously that was just the front end. I went through several setups to just level out the rear and found out that I needed to use the Landcruiser coils and 2" spacers.

 

Awesome !

 

Oh and something to know if you do end up getting the trailmaster is that you need to toss the stock hydraulic struts in the trash and pick up some new Gabriel ones. They are 2x beefier and actually last longer than a week.

They are only about $50 pair on ebay.

You will need to do some minor grinding with a mini grinding disk or dremel to make them work. You actually can flip them over to get another inch of downtravel which is nice.