1st Gen Tire time
#21
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,644
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From: Monett, MO (Springfield)
Roger,
With the backspacing requirement for the superlift kit, 3.75", would that hold about the same for mos other kits, seeing how the difference between them as far as I can tell isn't that much? With a 3.75 backspacing and a 4" lift, 33 X 10.5's sound like they will work without rubbing, correct?
Alan,
Thanks for thie info on what your runnin, your is set up about like mine wil be. Do you think a 1" body lift would take care of the rubbing? Also, did they rub just in the back, or in the front as well?
With the backspacing requirement for the superlift kit, 3.75", would that hold about the same for mos other kits, seeing how the difference between them as far as I can tell isn't that much? With a 3.75 backspacing and a 4" lift, 33 X 10.5's sound like they will work without rubbing, correct?
Alan,
Thanks for thie info on what your runnin, your is set up about like mine wil be. Do you think a 1" body lift would take care of the rubbing? Also, did they rub just in the back, or in the front as well?
#22
I have a, '85 4Runner, so its a whole different can of worms, lift vs. tire size. You might check the various lift lits and see what backspacing requirements they have. Do the lift, stick on the tires and see how they fit. If they rub, fix it.
Or skip the expensive IFS lift, crank up the t-bars or slap in a balljoint spacer, longer shackles in back and 1" body lift, stock wheels and 33x10.50s and you are set, probably under $300 and it'll work as good as the IFS lift for way less time and money.
Or skip the expensive IFS lift, crank up the t-bars or slap in a balljoint spacer, longer shackles in back and 1" body lift, stock wheels and 33x10.50s and you are set, probably under $300 and it'll work as good as the IFS lift for way less time and money.
#23
cory, i think that a 1 inch will do the trick b/c the chunks were just sliced out of the very outside lugs on the tire so if i had an inch more height the tire probably would have fit in the well at flex. But i think that i'm going to go with a 2 inch just to be safe. as for the front, i experienced no rubbing from the front and it flexed out all the way too(not like that's alot but still).
Alan
Alan
#24
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,644
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From: Monett, MO (Springfield)
Alan and Roger, thanks for the help!
Alan,
One last thing, what kind of suspension setup do you have on the back of your truck? Is it standard height springs w/ blocks, or 4" lift springs? Also, where did you get the components?
Alan,
One last thing, what kind of suspension setup do you have on the back of your truck? Is it standard height springs w/ blocks, or 4" lift springs? Also, where did you get the components?
#25
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,644
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From: Monett, MO (Springfield)
Hey guys, I know im beating this to death, but I'm a fan of do it right the first time, so you don't have to do it again. I'm looking at a set of Xtreme Alloy 1869 rims. One rim is a 15X8 the other is a 15X10", both with 3.625 backspacing. Will the 10" rims clear everything and not cause problems, or should I stick with the 15X8's. If I do go with either, which tire size, 33X10.5 or 33X12.5 would you personally run if it was your runner?
#26
The wider you go, the more trouble you will have fitting the tires under the truck with a given lift. A 33x12.50 fits fine on 15x8 rims, very popular combination. A 15x10 wheel is going to stick out 2" farther than the 15x8, given the same backspacing. Check your state's vehicle code for fender flare and mudflap requirements. You may need to install some to keep the law off your back. Also, 33x10.50s fine really well on stock wheels. And you won't need anywhere near as much lift, 1" body lift and 1-1.5" suspension lift and its good to go. You save money on the lift and you save on the wheels and it works just as good.
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