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Yeah on St. Joes. I'm still getting muck out of the condenser and radiator. And everywhere else. Being a mountain biker I'm aware of the tribulations (and cost) of sand and grit for sure.
At least the joints aren't failing, yet, just the boots rubbing themselves to death, definitely an angle problem. Unfortunately I had the same problem with the Yota axles and at around $300 apiece reman.....should've rebooted but with the number of miles on the old yota axles I chose to go reman. Bad idea or not I can't change it now.
If I were to see a couple of decent axles on a lower mileage junkyard truck I'd be tempted to try the yota axles again.
Actually you have given me an idea....gonna go out and do some measuring on the 96's remans and the oe's that are in the 99.....maybe droop the 99's to mimic some angles....see what the boots do. Not gonna be the same but you've got me all Curious George.
Hmmmmm! Think the hubby'd notice if the 99's axles were suddenly reman and the 96's oe???
Try rubbing the boots with a little white lithium grease that will help with the wear... just remember you'll have to clean them and re grease after running in sandy areas...
and the conversion to aisins is very simple and relatively cheap and would reduce a lot of wear and tear on the boots...
I'll have to study up on the Aisins....a conversion seemed to be in the neighborhood north of $500. White lithium grease is an interesting idea. Just got some, too. I'm also curious as to how long my boot stretch will last, you can kind of see in the first pic the inner's not rubbing that way.
Put this in awhile ago, thought I had it in here but I guess I forgot:
Story: Kid broke wimpy rear cup holder arm. Found junkyard 97 cupholder in tan. Wanted to keep at least exterior color the same so I merged the two. For what it's worth, the new arms are about twice as thick as the ones originally on the truck.
To get the assembly out unscrew those two screws you can see. Pull out assembly. Easy.
Thanks! Still mulling over what to do with the boots- this seems to have bought me some time. I know some people move them and glue them in place with gorilla snot but that requires a day down and getting ALL the grease off the shaft and boot where you glue it. You know what cv joint grease is like.
Went to Wash ita with Mightymouse and good people he knew, had a blast. Couldn't follow them on the rough stuff so we stuck to things the 99 stocker could do....
Got kinda dirty...
but cleaned up ok. Pin stripes are there but not easy to see on the blue truck.
Haven't cleaned up the 99 yet, those are showing up a lot more. For daily drivers they get the job done alright.
The left side had puked grease and the ball joint bolt was weirdly loose with the cotter pin still there. The right looked a little better (I b'lasted it when he wasn't looking, that's why it looks oily) though it doesn't appear to have much grease left? He hasn't got a chance to drive it yet, it was feeling a little off though that might have something to do with a broken sway bar link he also found.
Ok, this is Scuba's fault. I was going to get around to this eventually but my lazy butt got called out so....
Clock fix:
Sorry, no pics. The husbandio has the camera so just use your imagination...
My clock has become dimmer and dimmer, more recently with some parts unseeable and then coming back as it saw fit. I said to myself "self, bad connection, I need to get around to fixing that".
Then I saw this thread- https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/b...ou-too-242827/ and whined about how I need to get this done sometime between cv shafts. Scuba kindly reminded me that cv shafts only take a half hour and he is correct if you don't include stopping for homework, dinner, banged up knees, pad of paper to write tickets, laundry, etc etc.
So here is my write-up for fixing my clock in the 96:
1) Get home from taking kid to school
2) Pull 1 larger flat blade screw driver, 1 phillips driver, 1 small flat blade and 1 very small phillips driver from tool box.
3) Pull climate control knobs off
4) use lg flat blade to carefully pry climate control panel from dash, using upper slots and remembering that a/c button is plugged in directly and must also come out.
5) Unscrew the 2 screws behind panel that hold trim on but not the 2 that hold climate control mechanism in.
6) Trim will now pull away from dash.
7) Unplug clock, carefully use small flat screwdriver to pry clock out of its holder.
8) Bring inside, find strongest reading glasses.
9) Realize eyes have gotten worse and vow to stop by Target to get stronger ones for this kind of work.
10) Go downstairs and get small soldering iron
11) Remember you forgot to switch laundry over.
12) Bring whites upstairs
13) Run back down and put reds in dryer.
14) Notice slight dead animal smell downstairs
15) Bring soldering iron upstairs then go outside and check house overhang that you've already repaired twice.
16) Find the hole creatures have made to get into house.
17) Repair hole.
18) Come inside, plug in soldering iron.
19) Use small flat blade to take front plastic off clock. Watch out for the 3 buttons and 3 button covers as these could fall off and go who knows where.
20) Use very small phillips to uscrew 2 screws holding circuit board to the backing.
21) Be VERY careful when you pull these apart. There are 4 small springs you don't want to lose on 4 small blades.
22) I pulled the springs out a little to make them longer so I'd have better contact.
23) Then I picked up the soldering iron and realized 7 cups of coffee (been up since 3 am) are not favorable for soldering on circuit boards but dang it, I'm gonna get this finished! Also re-vow to get stronger readers- the board is pretty blurry.
24) I carefully carefully repaired a slightly cracked solder at one of the resistors (? larger squares on circuit board) on the circuit board, then went over the other 3 as well.
25) Then I added a little solder to each of the contact areas on the board for the springs because there was some wear there.
26) put clock back together making sure springs had good contact with board
27) plugged back into truck
28) turned on and checked. I have the time again and the lighting's all even!
29) clipped clock back into trim panel
30) pushed panel back into place, screwed screws back in, put climate control panel/ a/c button back into place, put knobs back on.
31) Came in and wrote lengthy ridiculous story about it and now I've gotta get ready for work.
So Scuba:
Actually, thanks for guilting me into getting it done.
rworegon
I replaced the lower ball joints on the 96 at 218,000-ish miles. They looked way better than the ones on the 99, especially the one on the left. No weird driving issues on the 96, it just seemed like a good idea given the age/mileage on it.
The 99 started feeling a little funny in an undefinable way and there was an occasional pop, though I'm betting that noise is from the broken sway bar link. We'll find out soon about both the noise and the feel as I've yet to get new links.
Yeah, the hubby fixed it. He drives it and I think though I talked him into a 4Runner as his daily driver he's become kinda fond of it.
So much for robbing the bits off it for my own- he says it's too pretty to trade spit with the 96.
He didn't mix tater, but he did do the dishes! I hates to do dishes.
You have a good'n too, Chef.
Nov 3, 2011 | 05:20 AM
