Awsome to know, thanks Chuckles! Two smaller bottles is a great idea. I'll have to go ahead and do the small hole then....maybe I'll try putting one on the high side a smidge below the screw threads so it will sit just under the lip of the cap. How did you end up securing yours, or assuming they're in front of the air box, did you secure yours? I missed this mod in your build thread.
Also thanks a lot for the input, excellent information!

 

I have them zip tied around the cruise control and ABS modules. I'm not sure if I posted any pictures or not.

 

Here's a picture that has them in it

 

Thanks Chuckles! How I ended up with the square nalgene was that I couldn't fit one of those round ones in front of the airbox so I looked for a solution and thought nalgene would be durable. I still really like how you did your grille.

 

I think my husband is up to some kind of crazy shenanigans....and I don't mean his LS crazy swap Volvo 240 wagon project either.

 

Pray tell........

 

So far it's been alluded to....

I was looking at a Lil Skips skid to help keep my gas tank in its only slightly dented state but
apparently my husband has plans to make it a challenge to not knock parts off the trucks in the tight overgrown Missouri woods....
Well, he was right about the front hitch, so maybe a snorkel will be okay too? Clouds of dust is often an issue for us.

Personally I thought the solution was- keep the '99 behind me = not so much dust for the '96.

 

The only time the 99 has been slower than the 96 is when it got dusted half to death!

(Lots of very dusty roads on our road trip out west, dust overwhelmed the Airaid filter, oily dust fouled the MAF, CEL and power loss ensued)

 

Which was awesome because I actually had to SLOW DOWN TO WAIT FOR THE '99 which is generally unheard of.

 

96 4Runner, 298,685 miles

Added a Blue Sea dual power post to the rear since I still have the winch wiring back there, then moved the wiring for the oba from the battery to the power post. Still need to run loom on that little red wire. No power runs to it until I switch on the safety solenoid, the same one I use for the winch power. OBA wiring (little red one) was routed all the way up front to the house battery, now it is a much shorter distance to the 2g wire that runs to the house battery.


Pulled my starter and changed out the contacts and plunger mostly for giggles. Found some corrosion at one of the terminals and cleaned it off. Plunger was original and pretty scored, contacts had a little wear at about 110,000 miles, but not nearly as bad as when I changed them at about 190,000.
Removing the two bolts that hold the brake line brackets to the frame make getting the starter out a lot easier.


Starter bendix with almost 300,000 miles on it


Starter contacts with about 110,000 miles on them. Still in pretty good shape and causing no issues




Plunger with almost 300,000 miles on it, not in the best shape, truck's still starting okay. You can see it's quite worn.


Part numbers I used for the starter re-do:
Toyota-
KIT REPAIR SERVICE 28226-22050 1 contact kit for one side
KIT REPAIR SERVICE 28226-74070 1 contact kit for other side
PLUNGER MAGNET SWIT 28235-54380 1 plunger

 

96 4Runner 298,685 miles

Made a new start ground cable from left over dual battery wiring. been putting it off for awhile but it needed a couple more inches since the battery was moved. Went ahead and put 4g wire from the alternator to the fuse block. I already have 2g battery ground as part of the dual battery system. I do need to replace the wire from fuse block to battery but don't yet have a 120v circuit breaker so left the (assuming) fuseable link in place for now.

Finally made a longer ground for the start battery, 2g, and added the last military terminal.
(that's not a crazy huge ground wire, it's a piece of hose to protect the wire from the bracket it almost touches)


Replaced the front dif brackets with those from a junkyard today, too.

Oh, and the husbandio got something from fedex.
I'm not entirely sure about this:


The template is pretty horrible, certainly I wouldn't use it to figure out where you actually need to drill. holes. in. the. fender.
THE FENDER!
HOLES!!

oh poo.

 

i take it he didn't get the safari snorkel?
I have debated about one off amazon that is about $150 that i am pretty sure could be made to work

 

This is the $150 Amazon snorkel. It's more for dust than water. Although if I ever get surprised by a puddle...

 

Looks like it'll work okay, especially if we don't follow the template too closely. I'll do a report on it when I'm done cringing about the HOLES.

Certainly that's never happened

 

if the holes get fubarred at least you can replace the fender

 

3rd gen fenders are a dime a dozen... unless you're looking for a good condition desert dune without flares ugh. I've been scouring the junkyards for 3 years and haven't found any.

 

Try finding one in azure blue pearl....the first azure blue pearl- there are 2 different ones.....
I'd better get it right the 1st time.

 

No kidding!

 

96 4Runner 298,691 miles

Snorkel install step one(s). Mowing and dinner making so didn't get anywhere near done.
Anywho, I pulled out the airbox. Three 12mm bolts plus the 10mm intake air hose clamps, pull the maf sensor plug and a couple of lines too.
This comes out:




This thick rubber elbow has to go on here:


And of course they are the same size.

A bit of heat (enough to get it warm and pliable, but not hot) some patience and a flat blade screwdriver


One of the two provided silver hose clamps on the elbow and re-install the air box. Even with the coolant reservoir attached to the airbox and the washer fluid reservoir attached to the core support I was able to puzzle the elbow/airbox into place.


And that part is done. Hopefully tomorrow will be Step 2.

 

You know, I can't remember seeing a desert dune fender in ages and ages either. Or a fender of any color that's not trashed in one way or another.