Looking for a write up on one if there is one. I didn't really see what I wanted when searching. Thanks

 

http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

 

Here you go if you like pics:
http://www.nwtoys.com/forum/tech-art...ming-belt.html

 

Or here:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timing_belt/

 

Thanks for all the replies fellas. Is it a pretty straight forward job, or pretty involved?

 

from the threads they posted, it seems relatively involved...looks like a couple of special tools.

although one special tool can be made by your local metalsmith...

otherwise, I would say patience and take your time, and maybe have a second vehicle to drive just in case, and you'll be okay.
I would do the belts, water pump, tensioner pulley, etc at the same time

 

I have not done it yet. Since the 4runner is not my DD, it rarely sees more than 4,000 miles a year. With that said, the 13 year old belt and H20 pump may not make it to 14. I have the Aisin kit with the NSK idler; I hope to change it by Spring 2012.

Having helped someone change this belt before, it helps to have a 2' breaker bar when bumping the starter to remove the crank bolt. Also get a new crank bolt and torque down to 217ft/lbs. Having a harmonic balance pulley remover is helpful. Probably the most important thing is to make sure the engine is timed correctly.

 

It is an involved process, but there are good resources here and on other forums to guide one through the process. If you've never wrenched or wrench minimally, it may not be the place to start.

A couple of other necessary tools:
in-lb torque wrench
ft-lb torque wrench that goes to 250 ft-lbs. Why? So you can torque the crank bolt to the specified 217 ft-lbs.

A 46 Piece Bolt Puller set something like this works great for walking the crank harmonic balancer pulley off (somtimes it slides off easily) or the timing gear behind it (if replacing the crank seal).

http://www.harborfreight.com/46-piec...set-37824.html

The link below is probably the easiest crank holding tool to make up (see post #14). It works great holding both the crank and cam. I used a 4' piece of metal and hacked off 1' to make up the short leg.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ebuild-201583/

 

Here's mine. Some 3/8" stove bolts and a 2x4. Put two drill bits in the pulley, line up the 2x4 and sock it against the bits with a hammer. Drill out the bit marks. Put your socket (I forget the size) halfway between the bolt holes and draw around it with a pencil. Drill out the circle. Insert bolts. Leave lots of wood PAST the bolts and place the holes on the diagonal and it won't split. If you put the bolts on the horizontal right at the end it is guaranteed to split.

It ain't purdy but it werks....