Time to change my rotors – any hints?
05-08-2005, 07:09 AM
#41
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(For those with the 1st Gen 4Runner anyway)
http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html
Model 251, it's the 8th one down.
http://jcsonlinetoolshed.com/product.php/10780/0/
54 MM wheel bearing nut socket.
A decent torque wrench.
Anti-sieze.
On the back side of the caliper, the 17mm bolts are the ones down behind the brakeline. The only ones there. I find the best set-up to get them off is a 1/2" drive17mm deep socket and a 24" breaker bar. I use an old wire coat hanger to hang the caliper up out of the way.
I forget how really intimidating this is the first couple of times, but it is really easy. A service manual of some sorts is a MUST.
I won't do a brake job unless I replace the hardware, (pins and springs) and bleed the lines. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, so it is best to change it. I do mine every fall just before hunting season starts since that is when I use the off-road the most. If we use this for towing a boat, I will start doing it in the spring also.
I agree with Andrew on everything but the two things I highlighted. I use Anti-sieze on the caliper bolts and torgue to 10 ft-lbs over spec. The anti-sieze acts as a lubricant in a way. Anti-squeal is te first thing I do on the brake job. It gives the anti-squeal time to dry before installing the pads.
on the 1st Generation IFS, the 54 MM socket is for adjusting the bearing locknuts. Get this spec out of your manual. I just did mine 3 days ago and I forgot the numbers already. That is why I use the manual. It will make or break gas mileage as well as extend bearing life.
To repack my bearings I use Molybednum grease. It's high temp, repels water and STICKS to what you put it on. Just good stuff.
To pull your inner bearing and seal, Pul the rotor just enough to get the outer bearing out. Push it back on and put a lock nut back onto the spindle. Yank the rotor off leaving the inner bearing and seal on the spindle.
When you order rotors and pads, Order a new hardware kit. It will save the aggrivation when they break latter. It's just cheap insurance.
http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html
Model 251, it's the 8th one down.
http://jcsonlinetoolshed.com/product.php/10780/0/
54 MM wheel bearing nut socket.
A decent torque wrench.
Anti-sieze.
On the back side of the caliper, the 17mm bolts are the ones down behind the brakeline. The only ones there. I find the best set-up to get them off is a 1/2" drive17mm deep socket and a 24" breaker bar. I use an old wire coat hanger to hang the caliper up out of the way.
Originally Posted by WatsonMD
This is definately an easy as hell job. First - only attempt one side at a time - that way if you get lost on something - there is something to reference back to.
I'm still on my originals rotors @ 120K. I used the Performance Friction #5024 from AutoZone. You'll also need some anti squeal lube and some high temp caliper lube.
1. Jack up front end, place on stands and remove wheels/tires.
2. If the rotors are warped - replace them. If not have someone mic them for minimum thickness - (0.787 inches).
3. Remove the small clip spring from the back side and gently tap out the slide pins using a punch/drift. Watch the anti-rattle spring as it can pop out.
4. Remove the pads, inboard and outboard along with the anti-squeal shims (2per pad).
5. The Caliper is removed by undoing two 17mm bolts on the back side. You'll probably need a breaker bar to do this. Suspend the caliper (NOT by the brake line, but use an old coathanger or wire to secure it out of the way.
6. Removal of the rotors is simply by pulling the rotor off the hub - although sometimes it is stuck by rust/dirt. A gentle, yet deliberate adminstration of force by a soft mallet will encourage it to become unstuck.
7. The new rotor is just slid into place.
8. Caliper is remounted to the bracket with torquing of the 17mm bolts to 90ft lbs and use of Loc-Tite (blue).
9. Press the pistons back in.
10. Apply antisqueal "stuff" to the back of the pads and apply the shims
11. Install pads inside caliper, replace pins, apply retainer spring clip.
12. Bleed entire brake system when completed.
Best of Luck
Andrew
I'm still on my originals rotors @ 120K. I used the Performance Friction #5024 from AutoZone. You'll also need some anti squeal lube and some high temp caliper lube.
1. Jack up front end, place on stands and remove wheels/tires.
2. If the rotors are warped - replace them. If not have someone mic them for minimum thickness - (0.787 inches).
3. Remove the small clip spring from the back side and gently tap out the slide pins using a punch/drift. Watch the anti-rattle spring as it can pop out.
4. Remove the pads, inboard and outboard along with the anti-squeal shims (2per pad).
5. The Caliper is removed by undoing two 17mm bolts on the back side. You'll probably need a breaker bar to do this. Suspend the caliper (NOT by the brake line, but use an old coathanger or wire to secure it out of the way.
6. Removal of the rotors is simply by pulling the rotor off the hub - although sometimes it is stuck by rust/dirt. A gentle, yet deliberate adminstration of force by a soft mallet will encourage it to become unstuck.
7. The new rotor is just slid into place.
8. Caliper is remounted to the bracket with torquing of the 17mm bolts to 90ft lbs and use of Loc-Tite (blue).
9. Press the pistons back in.
10. Apply antisqueal "stuff" to the back of the pads and apply the shims
11. Install pads inside caliper, replace pins, apply retainer spring clip.
12. Bleed entire brake system when completed.
Best of Luck
Andrew
I won't do a brake job unless I replace the hardware, (pins and springs) and bleed the lines. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, so it is best to change it. I do mine every fall just before hunting season starts since that is when I use the off-road the most. If we use this for towing a boat, I will start doing it in the spring also.
I agree with Andrew on everything but the two things I highlighted. I use Anti-sieze on the caliper bolts and torgue to 10 ft-lbs over spec. The anti-sieze acts as a lubricant in a way. Anti-squeal is te first thing I do on the brake job. It gives the anti-squeal time to dry before installing the pads.
on the 1st Generation IFS, the 54 MM socket is for adjusting the bearing locknuts. Get this spec out of your manual. I just did mine 3 days ago and I forgot the numbers already. That is why I use the manual. It will make or break gas mileage as well as extend bearing life.
To repack my bearings I use Molybednum grease. It's high temp, repels water and STICKS to what you put it on. Just good stuff.
To pull your inner bearing and seal, Pul the rotor just enough to get the outer bearing out. Push it back on and put a lock nut back onto the spindle. Yank the rotor off leaving the inner bearing and seal on the spindle.
When you order rotors and pads, Order a new hardware kit. It will save the aggrivation when they break latter. It's just cheap insurance.
09-22-2005, 03:09 PM
#42
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Brake Shims. To Remove or not to Remove
Hey Guys!! The past couple of times I replaced my brake Pads and Rotors I've just reinstalled shims after cleaning, but I didn't put any of the anti-squeal lube. I asked the guy at O'reillys and he told me to use the Anti-Squeal stuff, but Lose the shims. Well, when I changed the brakes I didn't listen to his advice. I just cleaned them up and no anti-squeal grease.
Do you all agree on putting the anti-squeal lube and get rid of the shims or should I just put the anti-squal grease and leave the shims in also.
Thanks!!
Steve
Do you all agree on putting the anti-squeal lube and get rid of the shims or should I just put the anti-squal grease and leave the shims in also.
Thanks!!
Steve
09-22-2005, 04:20 PM
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watson!!!! what about 4wd on the ifs 2nd gen with auto hubs....thats the hard one right....i mean i took a crack at it and nearly droped dead....did not change rotors just pad....they still dont need it....seem to last a long time.....and i had to pick up a whole kunckel and the rotor was smaller.....have you heard of heavy duty models and sport models on 2nd gen 4runners....and a tow package model with 4.88 gears...only found out this 6 months ago...i guess i have HD model.....and where on the rig do i find out what model i have??????
09-23-2005, 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Flowremix
How would you adjust the rear drums? Is it "easy" like the rotors?
09-23-2005, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by <96 Runner>
I have the FSM pdf on changing the shoes. I think that includes the adjustment you are asking about. Email me if you want it.
I recently replace my front rotors with Brembos. Night and day difference, it took care of the vibrations. My truck still pulls a bit when braking, but I suspect the rears for doing that.
11-07-2007, 02:44 PM
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One slight caveat I discovered, is to remove the anti-rattle spring before removing the pins (it will fly out, as warned, so just don't have your face in front of it if you do it this way). Just some gentle downward pressure on the bottom part with your thumb and pull outward with your index finger and it should slide over the bottom pin.
Likewise, after putting the pads in, I found it much easier to get the pins in and rotate them to get the retaining clip through the holes in the pins prior to installing the anti-rattle spring.
This may be obvious to the "experts", but, for newbies, I haven't seen this specifically mentioned and hope someone else will find it useful.
01-06-2011, 01:35 AM
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2nd gen 4runner brake upgrade
so i needed some help trying to beef up my brake system, I've done what i could to improve them as much as possible "change out the fluid" "bleed them" "extreme duty pads" ect, but the other day i had a close call and now i really need to so something before throwing on a set of 33's on it
ANY IDEAS ?
ANY IDEAS ?
10-21-2014, 05:09 AM
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I have a 95 Tacoma. shimmying like crazy when I brake. I'm going to replace the rotors. I've noticed a bit of a small shimmy when i'm driving at high speed. Anything I should look for beyond the rotors?
10-24-2014, 11:50 AM
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I know I'll get flamed for this, but here goes. The Toyota factory rotors are the best rotors out there. Yes they cost more, it's because the metallurgy is different.
The reason guys are warping factory rotors is simple. They toss a new set of rotors and pads on their truck and they don't adjust the rear brake shoes.
The rear shoes wear at a different rate. At that point the front brakes are required to do 90% of the braking instead of the 60% set by the factory.....and we wonder why they warp? And yes, I know the rear shoes are supposedly self-adjusting. Nice thought, but it usually doesn't work that way.
Go with factory rotors, replace or adjust your rear brake shoes and you should get 60,000 miles out of a set of factory rotors....minimum.
And absolutely do not install Tundra rotors and calipers. (I know I just bruised some egos by that statement). By installing Tundra rotors you are greatly increasing the unsprung weight on the front wheels. If you don't understand the consequences of increasing unsprung weight, ask an engineer.....a real engineer..... Not the internet guys who claim to be one.
There you go. Bash away.
The reason guys are warping factory rotors is simple. They toss a new set of rotors and pads on their truck and they don't adjust the rear brake shoes.
The rear shoes wear at a different rate. At that point the front brakes are required to do 90% of the braking instead of the 60% set by the factory.....and we wonder why they warp? And yes, I know the rear shoes are supposedly self-adjusting. Nice thought, but it usually doesn't work that way.
Go with factory rotors, replace or adjust your rear brake shoes and you should get 60,000 miles out of a set of factory rotors....minimum.
And absolutely do not install Tundra rotors and calipers. (I know I just bruised some egos by that statement). By installing Tundra rotors you are greatly increasing the unsprung weight on the front wheels. If you don't understand the consequences of increasing unsprung weight, ask an engineer.....a real engineer..... Not the internet guys who claim to be one.
There you go. Bash away.
11-05-2014, 05:36 AM
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Might want to check your rear shoes while you are at it, but the shimmying is generally caused by warped front rotors
11-05-2014, 05:38 AM
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I know I'll get flamed for this, but here goes. The Toyota factory rotors are the best rotors out there. Yes they cost more, it's because the metallurgy is different.
The reason guys are warping factory rotors is simple. They toss a new set of rotors and pads on their truck and they don't adjust the rear brake shoes.
The rear shoes wear at a different rate. At that point the front brakes are required to do 90% of the braking instead of the 60% set by the factory.....and we wonder why they warp? And yes, I know the rear shoes are supposedly self-adjusting. Nice thought, but it usually doesn't work that way.
Go with factory rotors, replace or adjust your rear brake shoes and you should get 60,000 miles out of a set of factory rotors....minimum.
And absolutely do not install Tundra rotors and calipers. (I know I just bruised some egos by that statement). By installing Tundra rotors you are greatly increasing the unsprung weight on the front wheels. If you don't understand the consequences of increasing unsprung weight, ask an engineer.....a real engineer..... Not the internet guys who claim to be one.
There you go. Bash away.
The reason guys are warping factory rotors is simple. They toss a new set of rotors and pads on their truck and they don't adjust the rear brake shoes.
The rear shoes wear at a different rate. At that point the front brakes are required to do 90% of the braking instead of the 60% set by the factory.....and we wonder why they warp? And yes, I know the rear shoes are supposedly self-adjusting. Nice thought, but it usually doesn't work that way.
Go with factory rotors, replace or adjust your rear brake shoes and you should get 60,000 miles out of a set of factory rotors....minimum.
And absolutely do not install Tundra rotors and calipers. (I know I just bruised some egos by that statement). By installing Tundra rotors you are greatly increasing the unsprung weight on the front wheels. If you don't understand the consequences of increasing unsprung weight, ask an engineer.....a real engineer..... Not the internet guys who claim to be one.
There you go. Bash away.
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