Time to change my rotors any hints?
02-06-2004, 07:20 AM
#21
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Originally posted by data
check out www.raceconcepts.net for some rotors if you haven't gotten some already.
check out www.raceconcepts.net for some rotors if you haven't gotten some already.
1111 Front Pads $50.00 1995-99 TACOMA 2WD EXC. PRERUNN
RTOY28 Front Rotors CALL 1995-99 TACOMA 2WD EXC. PRERUNN
1149 Front Pads $50.00 1995-00 TACOMA 4RUNNER 4WD EXC. LE
RTOY29 Front Rotors $170.00 1995-00 TACOMA 4RUNNER 4WD
EXC. LE
Yikes!
02-06-2004, 07:37 AM
#22
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Originally posted by <96 Runner>
Yeah, I was wondering the same thing. Unless a bleeder is opened or the system is exposed to air in any way, the brakes should not need to be bled. Even if you change pads and press in the caliper you really do not need to bleed.
Maybe the guys that did the brake line upgrade are saying this
Yeah, I was wondering the same thing. Unless a bleeder is opened or the system is exposed to air in any way, the brakes should not need to be bled. Even if you change pads and press in the caliper you really do not need to bleed.
Maybe the guys that did the brake line upgrade are saying this
I bought my Runner used and as far as I knew, nothing had ever been done to the break system. The rotors were warped when I got it, and after a few thousand miles, I decided to change them and the front pads. Bleeding and flushing the system is more accurate for what I actually did. There was some air in the lines, too, much to my surprise. IMHO, its worth doing if you have the time.
02-06-2004, 07:42 AM
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Originally posted by loosehead
I blead my break lines "just because"...
I bought my Runner used and as far as I knew, nothing had ever been done to the break system. The rotors were warped when I got it, and after a few thousand miles, I decided to change them and the front pads. Bleeding and flushing the system is more accurate for what I actually did. There was some air in the lines, too, much to my surprise. IMHO, its worth doing if you have the time.
I blead my break lines "just because"...
I bought my Runner used and as far as I knew, nothing had ever been done to the break system. The rotors were warped when I got it, and after a few thousand miles, I decided to change them and the front pads. Bleeding and flushing the system is more accurate for what I actually did. There was some air in the lines, too, much to my surprise. IMHO, its worth doing if you have the time.
02-06-2004, 07:53 AM
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I just did the rotors on my wifes 99. Very easy job. Just follow the instuctions above. It only takes slightly longer (5 mins) than doing just the pads. There is no need to bleed the brakes unless you want to. When I take the pins out of the pads I use a large screwdriver to push the pistons back in the calipers. Just make sure the master doesn't overflow. If you must bleed/flush use a power bleeder and don't push the piston down into the master cylinder and possibly scratch the seals.
02-06-2004, 08:32 AM
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Originally posted by Highland Runner
If you must bleed/flush use a power bleeder and don't push the piston down into the master cylinder and possibly scratch the seals.
If you must bleed/flush use a power bleeder and don't push the piston down into the master cylinder and possibly scratch the seals.
02-06-2004, 08:48 AM
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http://www.motiveproducts.com/ordernow_bleeders.htm
The universal model for $50 with the 1101 should be all you need. Some automotive stores carry these in stock.
The universal model for $50 with the 1101 should be all you need. Some automotive stores carry these in stock.
02-06-2004, 08:51 AM
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I'm planning on buying an air-compressor driven snap-on bleeder from a guy I know (he used to own a shop), but it won't happen before next weekend which is when I am planning on doing my brakes. This is the part I am not clear on:
What do you mean by that?
don't push the piston down into the master cylinder and possibly scratch the seals
02-06-2004, 09:21 AM
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When you are braking the piston is sliding in say only the first half of the master cylinder. The brake fluid that sits inside the master cylinder contains water which causes rust/pitting of the bore. That first half stays clean because the piston is sliding there all the time. But the lower half is rough. During bleeding you would push the piston way past the part it usually travels in. The rubber piston seal slides over this rough area and scratches it
02-06-2004, 09:31 AM
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If you do not have the power bleeder, you will be doing it via the brake pedal which, unless you put a block of wood under, could sink all the way to the floor, causing seal damage as described.
Be sure to use the old brake pad as a back stop before squeezing the pistons at the caliper to prevent seal damage there also.
Be sure to use the old brake pad as a back stop before squeezing the pistons at the caliper to prevent seal damage there also.
02-06-2004, 10:20 AM
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The power bleeder pushes fluid from the container into the resivoir and then through the master cylinder, lines, etc. Nothing moves but the fluid. The piston stays in its up position.
02-06-2004, 10:31 AM
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Changing pads and getting your rotors machined for a 3rd Gen. is a breeze and I'm not the most mechanically inclined.
I'd have to give 2 thumbs up to Morse brand ceramic brake pads (Autozone). I use to have a real bad brake dust problem. With the new pads I have had very limited amounts of dust.
The only problem I ran into was that I totally snapped the bolts off that hold the brake line bracket on... I think it was a self-tapping bolt, anyway, I had to drill it out and put a new bolt in... no biggie, just my stupidity.
I'd have to give 2 thumbs up to Morse brand ceramic brake pads (Autozone). I use to have a real bad brake dust problem. With the new pads I have had very limited amounts of dust.
The only problem I ran into was that I totally snapped the bolts off that hold the brake line bracket on... I think it was a self-tapping bolt, anyway, I had to drill it out and put a new bolt in... no biggie, just my stupidity.
02-06-2004, 10:35 AM
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Originally posted by SLC Punk
I tried to remove the bolts that held the caliper on, but couldn't get them free. I soaked it with PB blaster and still nothing. For some reason, I thought I could take my caliper off of the bracket. That was a big mistake because the caliper is two seperate pieces, so brake fluid went all over the place.
I tried to remove the bolts that held the caliper on, but couldn't get them free. I soaked it with PB blaster and still nothing. For some reason, I thought I could take my caliper off of the bracket. That was a big mistake because the caliper is two seperate pieces, so brake fluid went all over the place.
03-19-2004, 10:32 PM
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anyone got a pic of the two 17mm bolts that hold the caliper in place? Don;t want to start on the wrong bolts (see post above). 
I plan to try this sometime maintenance sometime in the future so am trying to learn what's involved. ANyone got pics of the right tools one would need - punch/drift, 17mm sockets, breaker bar(maybe) - what else?
I plan to try this sometime maintenance sometime in the future so am trying to learn what's involved. ANyone got pics of the right tools one would need - punch/drift, 17mm sockets, breaker bar(maybe) - what else?
Last edited by goretro77; 03-19-2004 at 10:38 PM.
05-11-2004, 06:08 PM
#35
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Just ordered 2 rotors (1 year warranty), and PF pads (5024) from Autozone online. Shipping was free and the total was $164 with tax.
I thought I would bring this old thread back to life since I know there is someone out there with warped rotors like me.
I thought I would bring this old thread back to life since I know there is someone out there with warped rotors like me.
05-11-2004, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by <96 Runner>
I thought I would bring this old thread back to life since I know there is someone out there with warped rotors like me.
I have the parts on-route as well, should be here by the weekend. It would be great to know which caliper bolts to touch/not touch.
05-17-2004, 07:34 PM
#37
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Just finished the install. WOW, what a difference! For those of you holding back for fear of install woes...you really have nothing to worry about. It was so easy! 
02-17-2005, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Cardesign
back to the bleeding issue. if you bleed the brakes with the caliper and pads back on the rotor do you still risk scratching the seals?
05-07-2005, 11:47 PM
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I just installed brand new Brembos with PFC pads. After doing a first test drive I saw some mild smoke coming from the front wheels after stopping. Is this normal on new brakes?
Thanks!
-- Andrey
Thanks!
-- Andrey
