Speedy, another thought. If you want to stick with 265/75R16s, you might consider installing new tall 1999 coils with perhaps the 10mm OME trim packers in the rear and new 99 coils in the front with some kind of small spacer. That gives you Toyota parts, but not quite as much lift as the SS kits. Other options are 99 coils with a small spacer in the front and OME 906 coils in the rear to gain the cargo carrying/towing capability. My buddy has this setup and it looks great with 265/75s.

I would caution against running load range E tires. I just went from a load range D to a load range C and noticed an improvement in ride quality. The buddy that I just mentioned moved to a load range E and it seems to ride pretty harsh due to a sidewall thickness meant for a full sized truck with a high payload/towing capacity.

 

Thanks, I'm glad you found the info useful. I've actually gone back and read it myself a time or two just for a trip down memory road LOL

What I've found through dealing with this car as well as some others, is that tuning is black magic to most folks. My bet is they take the base map URD sends and run it without ever checking anything. These little 5VZ engines are tough and I've honestly never heard of one blowing up even without the fueling and tuning upgrades, but they are leaving a lot of power on the table by not checking things out, installing a wideband, etc. I wish we had good data logging options for these cars like I do for my Dodge Challenger. The Cam Studio method gets it done though

Here's a video of me running a data log using a hand held recorder on my supercharged Challenger. I can then go back and review the data in line graph format making it VERY easy to see what needs adjusting. The down side is I have to pay a tuner to make those adjustments as it's infinitely complicated and the software to make changes is $2500.

[YOUTUBE]wZ2HMXOBCO4[/YOUTUBE]


Ah, now I see.

That's good to know too. I wonder what's the most miles on the stock t-belt? I've read a bunch of people pull them off around 100K and they're like new.

I'll keep updating this thread and my website with the projects as I run through them. I do videos now for the "how to's" since technology has made it easy to do so where as back when I built the 4Runner I had to type it all up. I'll do some video on the lift and brake upgrades and put them on my Youtube channel.

 

I also tuned my truck, going cell by cell is not really 100% necessary under normal conditions but the R4 is so old school/basic you have to do it more then you should.

I think I posted some of my maps years ago although they are quite a bit different then most since I have headers.

Tuning was worth it for sure, picked up quite a bit of power with a good tune.

 

This brings up a question I've had and I think I know the answer but if someone could confirm I'd sleep better at night, not really, but seriously haha.

I have a ScangaugeII on my 4Runner set to read a few parms one of which is Ignition Advance. So I mat the pedal and I see the timing say it's 10 deg or whatever and start to climb with RPMs up to say 15 deg - I'm just throwing out numbers here as I can't really remember what the actual ones are.

My question is, is that the ACTUAL timing or is that what the truck THINKS is the timing, then I subtract however many degrees I'm removing in the R4 software?

I think it' what the truck THINKS it is, so if it says 15 deg and I'm removing 4 deg in that cell then the real timing is 11, but if someone can confirm that'd be great.

 

Yes you are correct, it's what it thinks it is.

 

Yep, got to take out whatever is in the R4 software.

Just FYI, my truck maxed out the ignition tables even with a 2.0 pulley at 23-24 degrees (max it will run at WOT) after adding meth injection. Picked up a lot of power as well.

 

Cool, thanks guys. Yep, I figure it would with the meth in there cooling things down. Does it spray through the 7th injector location or ? Been a while since I looked in to that one.

 

I first had it in the intake pipe when I still had the 7th injector installed. After removing the 7th injector and going all meth injection I moved the nozzle to the 7th injector location.

 

Ah gotcha. So it richened the mix enough you didn't need the 7th any longer. Good to know for future reference.

 

Yep and since it provided more then enough octane I had no use for the piggyback either so just removed it.

The cooling effects are just one of the benefits of meth injection. The extra octane and burn stabilization are other just as big benefits.

 

I don't want to muddy up Speedy's thread, but anytime you guys want to share URD tuning maps, (particularly Speedy since TA no longer uses it), I would love to compare. That thread is here: URD 7th injector tuning maps.

But while I have your attention, I have a strange issue. The "closed loop boost enrichment" mode that kicks in at 3 psi does a great job of bringing the AFRs down to around 12.5 to 12.8:1. However the moment I go WOT (and into open loop), AFRs actually increase to around 13:1, despite the fact that I'm adding more than twice the amount of fuel than what was in the base URD map. (I've got 1.7s and up to 2.2 milliseconds of injector on a stock pulley!) Can anyone think of a reason why that would happen? Feel free to respond over at the URL I posted above.

Speedy, I can confirm that the timing you are seeing is what the ECU thinks the timing is. Actual timing is that number plus the timing you are pulling in the R4 software.

 

Don't worry about muddying up my thread bro, it's all just data to me. I'll go over to the thread you linked and have a look.

Edited - I don't wanna join another forum so I'll put my comments on the tune here.

My tune will be largely different from yours as I have a 2002 automatic. For whatever reason mine was NEVER lean no matter what WOT with the stock setup and blower. I was worried it was gonna run too rich and I'd have no way to remove fuel as the AFR was 10.2 or so at WOT with the stock blower pulley. After installing the AIC-T but not doing anything with it the AFR leaned up to 11.0. After going to the 2.2 pulley AND the deck plate mod it finally leaned up enough that I need to add fuel, but not that much really. What I ended up with is a 11.5 - 12.0 WOT tune in cool air and a 11.0 - 11.3 in hot air (due to less boost) and I've just left it be rather than run a summer and winter tune. I figure a bit richer in summer is a good thing due to the heat and humidity here.

Mine has the AFR Calibrator integrated in to the AIC-T 7th injector computer. I can not adjust my part throttle boost fuel enrichment because of this. Mine will drop down to 13.2 or so at part throttle boost but no lower regardless of how much boost it makes part throttle. It's been fine for going on 40K miles and 5 years.

Ideally you want to tune in 4th gear for a manual trans. That is where the load generated on the motor is the most stable. My AFR is a bit leaner than 11.8 in 2nd as well even in my auto. 3rd is my tuning gear and is like 4th in a manual and it bounces off the speed limiter when I'm data logging the 4Runner. I run the same method in my Challenger and I'm hitting 145-150MPH in it at WOT in 4th so I hear ya on not wanting to do it.

Are you 100% sure you are in open loop at WOT in 2nd and 3rd where you're still seeing 12.5 AFR? It could be the computer hasn't switched to OL yet because of the load on the engine. That's my first theory and the first thing I would check.

Other than that, it may be that the AIC-T is a bit crude and can't adjust fast enough to the changing conditions in 2nd and 3rd. The RPMs climb much more slowly in your main gear, being 4th.

If you want to see my fuel map, there is a section on my website called "analysis and tuning" that shows a video of mine with Cam Studio.

Here's a run through gears 1-4 I did in mine early on playing around with it. Notice how it's leaner in 1st and 2nd, richens up nice in 3rd and 4th, which would be like 4th and 5th in your manual.

 

My values were WAY higher then URD's map. The stock URD map had me running in the 14-15's before I tuned it.

Just keep adding fuel until the AFR's are correct. A possibility is your fuel pump can't keep up or your fuel filter is clogged but most likely just needs more tuning.

Here is an old map I had laying around, can't look at it since I don't have the software installed so no idea at what point in the tuning it is from. You can look at it though. Think I posted some others years back.

http://www.pballandmore.com/Download/Texas_Ace.mdb

 

Strange. I recently reset the Toyota ECU and reinstalled the base URD tune and ended up with really lean AFRs in the lower gears, so I immediately reloaded my last custom tune. For the record, I have the complete URD kit including the Walbro fuel pump PLUS I installed a new Toyota fuel filter and I'm on the stock 2.37" pulley.

That's strange too, since the base tune does nothing but add fuel. An anomaly, perhaps?

That sounds good, exactly what I'm shooting for. I'm worried that I'm adding as much injector time at 7 psi (2.2 milliseconds) as the base URD map would add for 12 psi. Makes me wonder if my setup would even handle a smaller pulley.

Mine is integrated too but there's one key difference, your truck is an air fuel ratio sensor truck and since mine is a 2000 with the federal emissions package, I have the older style narrowband O2 sensor. But I think my integrated AFR calibrator works similarly. This feature is actually working well though. FYI, you can adjust when this feature kicks in by adjusting the "boost overpressure" cell in the R4 software. Mine came set at a default of 2.9 psi.

Okay, you're getting into my key question. I would reach the 108 MPH speed governor at only 4500 RPMs in 4th; I never drive my truck that fast, so while you are correct, I think it makes more sense to tune in 3rd. When I jump on it, it's usually in the first 3 gears. So perhaps I'm adding more fuel to accommodate safe AFRs in 2nd and 3rd and would find that I'm way rich in 4th. That would be fine since I don't drive that way.

That's a VERY good question, I will have to check. I think so because when I put a load on it I see ~12.8:1 (closed loop enrichment) and when I keep pushing harder on the throttle I see a specific point where it goes leaner. I've been assuming that's the point at which it leaves the closed loop enrichment mode and goes to open loop, but you're right, I should confirm.

I have wondered that too.

This is exactly what I've been looking for. I'm having trouble seeing the shift points, can you tell roughly what AFRs you saw in 1st and 2nd? If I completely mat the throttle from a stop, I see high 13 AFRs in 1st, around 12.8-13:1 through second, then 12.5:1 through 3rd. From 5000 to 5500 RPMs in 3rd gear they dip to 11.8:1, so I might try and add more injector time from 3500-5000 RPMs. I'm guessing a 4th gear pull would be way rich, but I'm not sure because I never drive that fast.

Sorry my reply ended up so huge. I guess the bottom line is I'm wondering if my 12.5-13:1 air fuel ratios in 1st and 2nd gear is dangerous, because quite frankly, it doesn't look like I can do anything about it without totally flooding the engine in 3rd and 4th gear. By 3rd gear things are stabilized and by redline in 3rd I hit 11.8:1.

 

In the log above my AFR spiked to 13.0 in 2nd and then flattend out to 11.3 - 11.9 in 3rd. Things happen so fast at WOT in 1st and 2nd I've always just dismissed the AFR readings altogether but they've never been 11.8 or below.

I'm still on the stock Toyota fuel pump just FYI. I'm guess Toyota upped the output or something in later year models as, like I said, I was very rich stock as well as after the blower. I also have my FPR tied in to the boost line so it gets boost referenced. Is yours setup like that as well?

 

That makes me feel much better about what's going on in my lower gears. When I see 12.5-13:1 in any gear, it makes me nervous. This is a terrible video, but since you have experience with camstudio and R4, you'll probably be able to understand what's happening. This is a WOT pull starting in 2nd gear, shifting at redline and pulling to redline in 3rd gear. You'll see the blue cursor work through the RPMs and boost pressure, but I wasn't expecting boost to go into the 7.5 psi range on the stock pulley, so you can just barely see it at the top of 3rd.


What you [hopefully] see is 12.8:1 in 2nd gear in the mid RPM range, dropping to 12.2:1 at 5000-5500 RPMs, then a shift to 3rd when it spikes to 17.6:1, followed by 12.5:1 in the mid RPMs and 11.2-11.3:1 by redline in 3rd. Maybe I just need to fatten up those mid-RPMs a bit, lean out the 5000-5500 RPMs just slightly and call it good. I'm sure 4th gear will be really rich but again, 3rd is where I work it hardest.

I will re-check the vacuum/boost line routing to the FPR when I get my truck back. I was rear-ended a few days ago.

Very curious to see what you think of the 2nd-3rd gear video.

 

With the way that AFR stays mid 12s then suddenly drops to 11.5 it makes me think the truck isn't going in to Open Loop until the top of third. Toyota Engineer probably didn't see the need to go to OL in those gears and hold out till the top of 3rd and 4th to do so. That's just a theory, but you already know how to confirm.

As you know, you can dump all the fuel you want in closed loop and the AFR is just gonna do what it wants to do. I think the reason you're able to even see 12.5 is because of the AFR Calibrator function you've setup. Other clues that is what's doing it is the fact you see 12.5 at part throttle and boost.

My money's on it not being in OL and adding fuel if that's the case is just over working the injector and causing the stock injectors to pull fuel. Check that first and let's see.

 

I won't argue against that one bit, I think you're probably spot-on. When I get my truck back, I will confirm the open/closed loop theory.

Last I checked my short term and long term fuel trims were under 5%, effectively cancelling each other out.

Not that it matters, but now I'm curious how the closed loop fuel enrichment feature works. It could be hard-programmed to turn on the 7th injector for X milliseconds when the overboost is set to 3 psi, or it could be a function of grabbing numbers from specific cells in R4. I wonder...

 

Neither on my 2002 model with CA emissions and wideband O2s. The AFR calibrator on mine tricks the truck in to thinking it's lean and the factory computer adds fuel using the stock injectors to compensate. I'd wager yours works the same. If you get too greedy at part throttle and try to richen it up too much you'll pop a CEL as the factory system can only compensate like 30% or somewhere in there. Beyond that a CEL is illuminated.

Switching gears....you had recommended against load range E tires. Would these be better suited for a comfortable ride?

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....2OWL&tab=Specs

 

I see Bridgestone makes a Load Range E in that size ($200 per tire vs $135), but I can't tell what Load Range the ones you linked are. What I can see is the tire in the link above are 41 lbs each vs the Load Range E version of the same tire are 47 lbs each. By comparison, my larger 275/70R17 Cooper Discoverer S/T Load Range C are 49-50 lbs each.

I would say anything up to load range D is okay, but C seems to be the best for our vehicle weights. E, in my opinion, is too stiff for a 4000 lb 4runner.