Sonoran steel panhard build issue
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Sonoran steel panhard build issue
I received my bar and both ends are threaded the same direction (righty tighty) so no adjustment is possible without removing one end of the bar to spin the link out or in. This is wrong compared to every other Panhard I've had or seen anywhere. The thread direction should be opposite to allow adjustment while in place. Anyone else have this bar?
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Got in touch w/ Steve at S Steel and he said he does both ends righty tighty because that's the way he make's them. There were excuse like it's hard to find a tap that's left handed if you need to clean the threads because of corrosion. I don't know? You never know what someone else is thinking> It's installed and it would've been a lot easier had it been like most panhard's left/right thread setup instead of having to pound the bolt in there having to have it already set at your adjustment. Thanks for the replies.
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We make then with 2 right hand hand threads. Here is why.
1: If you live in an area where it snows. You may need to re-cut the threads in either the ends or the center tube, the tap and die will be very easy to find. A left hand 3/4" fine will be very difficult to find and extremely expensive. Right hand your local ACE hardware will have. It's an off road part and designed to be easily rebuilt by the average person.
2: Alignment kids that do not know what they are doing will try to adjust it. They should not. The bar is set for lift height and has nothing to do with alignment when set correctly.
3: You set the bar to your lift height and never adjust it again. Does your lift height change? causing to you fine tune it. No your lift height should not change so why would you fine tune it?
4: The reason both ends move is NOT because it needs to be moved in and out like a steering link, but because the bar needs to tapper in, look at your stock bar. The 3/4" solid pieces emulate the tapered part of the stock bar. Technically the bar only need one end adjustable, but then it would not tapper and would bind the suspension. (See Slee Off Road, Ironman, TJM, etc for the FZJ80)
1: If you live in an area where it snows. You may need to re-cut the threads in either the ends or the center tube, the tap and die will be very easy to find. A left hand 3/4" fine will be very difficult to find and extremely expensive. Right hand your local ACE hardware will have. It's an off road part and designed to be easily rebuilt by the average person.
2: Alignment kids that do not know what they are doing will try to adjust it. They should not. The bar is set for lift height and has nothing to do with alignment when set correctly.
3: You set the bar to your lift height and never adjust it again. Does your lift height change? causing to you fine tune it. No your lift height should not change so why would you fine tune it?
4: The reason both ends move is NOT because it needs to be moved in and out like a steering link, but because the bar needs to tapper in, look at your stock bar. The 3/4" solid pieces emulate the tapered part of the stock bar. Technically the bar only need one end adjustable, but then it would not tapper and would bind the suspension. (See Slee Off Road, Ironman, TJM, etc for the FZJ80)
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#8
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We make then with 2 right hand hand threads. Here is why.
1: If you live in an area where it snows. You may need to re-cut the threads in either the ends or the center tube, the tap and die will be very easy to find. A left hand 3/4" fine will be very difficult to find and extremely expensive. Right hand your local ACE hardware will have. It's an off road part and designed to be easily rebuilt by the average person.
2: Alignment kids that do not know what they are doing will try to adjust it. They should not. The bar is set for lift height and has nothing to do with alignment when set correctly.
3: You set the bar to your lift height and never adjust it again. Does your lift height change? causing to you fine tune it. No your lift height should not change so why would you fine tune it?
4: The reason both ends move is NOT because it needs to be moved in and out like a steering link, but because the bar needs to tapper in, look at your stock bar. The 3/4" solid pieces emulate the tapered part of the stock bar. Technically the bar only need one end adjustable, but then it would not tapper and would bind the suspension. (See Slee Off Road, Ironman, TJM, etc for the FZJ80)
1: If you live in an area where it snows. You may need to re-cut the threads in either the ends or the center tube, the tap and die will be very easy to find. A left hand 3/4" fine will be very difficult to find and extremely expensive. Right hand your local ACE hardware will have. It's an off road part and designed to be easily rebuilt by the average person.
2: Alignment kids that do not know what they are doing will try to adjust it. They should not. The bar is set for lift height and has nothing to do with alignment when set correctly.
3: You set the bar to your lift height and never adjust it again. Does your lift height change? causing to you fine tune it. No your lift height should not change so why would you fine tune it?
4: The reason both ends move is NOT because it needs to be moved in and out like a steering link, but because the bar needs to tapper in, look at your stock bar. The 3/4" solid pieces emulate the tapered part of the stock bar. Technically the bar only need one end adjustable, but then it would not tapper and would bind the suspension. (See Slee Off Road, Ironman, TJM, etc for the FZJ80)
As per our phone conversation we had already discussed your reasons for building the panhard the way you do, although it's backwards from every other panhard I've installed. I think it's overpriced as well but I'm keeping it since it was such a pain to install. I've got >15 years as an Aviation mechanic so this isn't some shadetree mechanics opinion. Good day.
#10
Glad I read this thread. Thanks for the good info Steve. Sonoran adjustable looks to be about 25% less in cost then most I've seen. From all the good things I've read and heard about Sonoran Steel, I'll be ordering mine soon! Thanks!
Last edited by stagger_lee; 03-02-2015 at 04:27 PM.
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Just an FYI, if you install the bar with the tries on the truck and the wheels/tires on the ground. This is a lifted 4Runner so getting under it is not a problem. The bolt holes will literally fall into place and the bolts will slide in with no effort. The rear end will typically settle into place. It may be off by 1/8" of less and then you lay on your back, push up with your feet and slide the bolt right in with no effort.
Truck in the air, tires off = Nightmare.
Truck in the air, tires off = Nightmare.
#12
I had no issues with the Sonoran Steel lift install including the panhard bar install. Instructions were written well. Quality is top notch and Steve is lightning fast and patient when replying to any and all questions I've ever had when deciding which setup to go with...highly recommend.
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