95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

sdastg1 style tire carrier?

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Old May 18, 2004 | 11:00 AM
  #1  
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From: San Diego, CA
sdastg1 style tire carrier?

I need some way to hold a 33x12.50 spare but I don't have the money for a whole new rear bumper/tire carrier right now

I was checking out this thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/new-rear-tire-carrier-pics-32607/ and I like the idea behind it..
but his version is a bit weak and prone to breakage...


what would be the very BEST way to build a tire carrier like this but have it be super strong besides just reinforcing his design?

also would it work to change the design from his to hold a hi-lift and a plate like so?


thanks guys
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Old May 18, 2004 | 12:18 PM
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ha ha .. this is great!

I dropped it off at the welder to get the reinforcements done. But it won't be done anytime soon. I don't need it for another 2 months or so.

good luck with this man!
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Old May 18, 2004 | 12:26 PM
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hey thanks dude!
Keep all of us posted on what you end up doing with yours.
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Old May 18, 2004 | 12:29 PM
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yeah the guy said it would be about two weeks before he can get back to it. and I have to run the design by Brian (waskillywabbitt) first. But it should be a lot better.

I have some ideas for what your trying to do .. have to step out right now, but I'll post them a bit later
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Old May 19, 2004 | 10:16 AM
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where you going to post those ideas?
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Old May 19, 2004 | 10:41 AM
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I wonder if using a thick walled tubing and having it mandrel bent by a shop would work out better?

It seems to me that keeping the tubing solid and curved rather than welded at a joint might increase the material strength. Or, at least, remove the stress inherent in welding.

For instance, a one and a half (1 1/2") inch round tubing bent to shape with the tire mount welded on. You'll have to use your imagination to see a basic 'S' shaped carrier.

Of course, it would still have to be welded onto a 2" square tube to fit in the receiver...

:sigh:
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Old May 19, 2004 | 12:40 PM
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No matter what you are going to have a lot of weight spread out across a wide area supported by only a 2" wide mounting point located far below. This will act as a powerful lever no matter what you do to it. But if you build it strong it can be made to work okay for low speed off-road situations. I would hesitate to run it on road too often due to liabilities. It will also rattle more than standard swing away which are already known to rattle a lot. Until you can get a custom rear bumper it will make for a pretty good band-aid solution. Think of it like a hitch mounted bike rack with a couple of heavy duty bikes on it. Heck you might even be able to modify one of those to work for you. A 4 bike rack will easily carry 150lbs. If you can find a cheap one used that might be the ticket. Some of them even swing out to the side.
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Old May 19, 2004 | 12:55 PM
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I see what you are saying about the weight, I figured I would weld like a ring to the top and use some sort of strap to connect it to the roof rack that way that top leverage isn't there.

like this:


(yes I know the side view looks like a Xterra and the back looks like a jeep)

would that work?
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Old May 19, 2004 | 01:03 PM
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I took your well engineered CAD drawings and ran stress analysis on them. This is what I came up with. It looks like you have a .08% failure rate with the straps attached and a 17.84% failure rate without them. So i'd say...yup that'll work

-Sean
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Old May 19, 2004 | 01:12 PM
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ha ha.. cool.

glad you could run that test for me
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Old May 19, 2004 | 05:41 PM
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I'm going to be doing a version of this eventually too, but mine will fold down to the side.

Chris
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