Rear axle seals
#1
Rear axle seals
So I slid under the truck the other night only to find that my drivers side rear axle seal is pukeing all over the place and the right seal is beginning to go. How much of a pain is the job and are all of the SST's mentioned in the FSM necessary? Is it a day job?
I would kind-of like to have my truck ready to wheel by Labor Day and not have gear oil spewing onto my rear drums... something about axle grease and brake pads not getting along...
I would kind-of like to have my truck ready to wheel by Labor Day and not have gear oil spewing onto my rear drums... something about axle grease and brake pads not getting along...
#2
So I slid under the truck the other night only to find that my drivers side rear axle seal is pukeing all over the place and the right seal is beginning to go. How much of a pain is the job and are all of the SST's mentioned in the FSM necessary? Is it a day job?
I would kind-of like to have my truck ready to wheel by Labor Day and not have gear oil spewing onto my rear drums... something about axle grease and brake pads not getting along...
I would kind-of like to have my truck ready to wheel by Labor Day and not have gear oil spewing onto my rear drums... something about axle grease and brake pads not getting along...

Use the "search" feature and "rear axle seals" and you should find more than enough information.
#4
Also be very careful not to damage the axle housing surface when removing the old seal. A big set of pliers worked well for me. Use a pair that allows you to get a good grip on the seal and yank it out. Also, those Marlin Crawler seals only work in axle housings on trucks without ABS. I was out of luck there
#5
I just did mine a few weeks ago and I was actually surprised how easy it was. I went to napa and bought a seal puller, big spikey nasty lookin thing and it was kinda hard to used, but seemed to work ok. I had trouble reseating them too and even tried freezing. What worked best for me was to get it lined up the best I could then very carefully install the axle again and start tightening all the bolts this slowly and evenly seats it into place assuming everything is flush when you start cranking.
#6
there are two seals
theres an outer seal that fits into the bearing case then the axle and bearing get pressed in. You have to unpress the bearing and retainer to replace that seal. Then theres an innner axle seal that you can easily remove and replace once the backing plate/bearing case and axle are removed.
Then theres a third seal, its a large 0-ring that fits around the lip on the axle housing.
You need a SST to the bearings off ... its $200 to buy or about $40 an axle to have a shop do this work for you
Might as well replace the seals and bearings IMO.
theres an outer seal that fits into the bearing case then the axle and bearing get pressed in. You have to unpress the bearing and retainer to replace that seal. Then theres an innner axle seal that you can easily remove and replace once the backing plate/bearing case and axle are removed.
Then theres a third seal, its a large 0-ring that fits around the lip on the axle housing.
You need a SST to the bearings off ... its $200 to buy or about $40 an axle to have a shop do this work for you
Might as well replace the seals and bearings IMO.
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#10
just thought i had the same problem with a "seal" took out the axle and whoa the bearing was SHOT.... the axle moved in circles... pretty bad. and pretty damn expensive, the bearing alone was like $58 and people are telling me i got a deal on it... plus you have to have a press to remove the old bearing and they used some special tool to press it off. PITA. if you are lucky you can find a used axle with a bearing on it already (if you happen to have a bad bearing) then just slide it in. if not then good luck, its not cheap...
#11
just thought i had the same problem with a "seal" took out the axle and whoa the bearing was SHOT.... the axle moved in circles... pretty bad. and pretty damn expensive, the bearing alone was like $58 and people are telling me i got a deal on it... plus you have to have a press to remove the old bearing and they used some special tool to press it off. PITA. if you are lucky you can find a used axle with a bearing on it already (if you happen to have a bad bearing) then just slide it in. if not then good luck, its not cheap...
Last edited by bratliff; Aug 23, 2007 at 04:10 AM.
#13
thump?? out of curiosity how does that make it thump? i get the "thump" when i stop at a stop light and when i take off i get a thump occasionally on a fast brake at the light. i can tell a difference when i grease my driveshaft it will stop for a long while.
#15
this is a really easy thing to fix on the 3rd gen 4runners... here is a link to my write up of it, and the first part to get you an idea of what is involved
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/r...s-pics-110243/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/r...s-pics-110243/
Last edited by RunnerUp; Aug 23, 2007 at 12:29 PM.
#17
i changed everything once i was in there since i already bought it but the seal looked okay. the bearing was just REALLY bad... leaked everywhere. maybe i couldnt hear it because of the tire noise but it was bad.. new bearing now and its good as new with no leaks..
#18
this is a really easy thing to fix on the 3rd gen 4runners... here is a link to my write up of it, and the first part to get you an idea of what is involved
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/r...s-pics-110243/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/r...s-pics-110243/
its easy if you take it to a machine shop to have them press it. i was talking about doing it yourself on a press. not easy... had to borrow a tool from a toyota dealer mechanic and use it on my press.. didnt want to ruin that expensive ass bearing by forcing it in!
Last edited by Azusacanyonbogger; Aug 23, 2007 at 12:32 PM.
#19
Some info here... <---- this is a link
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