Questions about using rust converter...
#1
Questions about using rust converter...
If the temperature is warm enough, I'm going to start to hitting some rust areas under the 4runner (94) with some rust converter, then primer and paint.
Is anything that has rust fair game for rust converter or is there anything under the truck that should not be sprayed with this stuff?
Also, if there is something wrong with my plan of rust converter - primer - paint... please stop me now before I do something horribly wrong...
Thanks...
Is anything that has rust fair game for rust converter or is there anything under the truck that should not be sprayed with this stuff?
Also, if there is something wrong with my plan of rust converter - primer - paint... please stop me now before I do something horribly wrong...
Thanks...
#2
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it should be fine to put the rust converter on all parts of the undercarriage, wont hinder anything.. which rust product are you going to use? that would be the deciding factor if you can prime-paint it afterwards and which primer to use. just remember to get the steel as clean as possible before you get into it.. otherwise it will just rust again
#3
Don't use a rust converter. There is something out thats way better. Called POR-15. www.por15.com
Get the chassis paint in gloss black or whatever color you prefer. Paint on 2 coats and your done. no primer, no paint. The stuff is expencive but it goes a long way.
Get the chassis paint in gloss black or whatever color you prefer. Paint on 2 coats and your done. no primer, no paint. The stuff is expencive but it goes a long way.
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I used POR 15 after I sand blasted my 1969 bronco frame and it turned out great. It looks new and is super strong I did the axles also. The frame turned out so nice that I decided to do the whole body and painted it silver cause the type of bare metal enamal POR 15 I was using was not UV protective. The best result was the half cab to cause it was real bad.
It works great, just paint it directly over rust cause it will bond with the rust.
It works great, just paint it directly over rust cause it will bond with the rust.
Last edited by Hyperlite; 03-13-2005 at 06:53 PM.
#6
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Hyperlite,
Did you protect any parts under the bronco during sandblasting? I'm thinking about doing the same to my 88 Yota, but I'm worried that I may get sand in places that I don't want.
Did you protect any parts under the bronco during sandblasting? I'm thinking about doing the same to my 88 Yota, but I'm worried that I may get sand in places that I don't want.
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When I took the frame to the sandblaster it was only the frame with no bolts or wires. The sand blaster uses a fire hose and semi truck full of sand so I think it will destroy any thing plastic.
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#8
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That's what I thought, and thanks for the post. I may go for steam cleaning or a good wash down with a pressure washer to get loose rust and dirt off first.
#9
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I used a product called RUST-SEAL from SEM on my old bronco's rusty floor pans over the summer and it seems to be holding up well.you should be able to find it at any automotive paint store, if you want to check it out.
It costs about the same as por-15 tho.
It costs about the same as por-15 tho.
#10
Originally Posted by green91runner
it should be fine to put the rust converter on all parts of the undercarriage, wont hinder anything.. which rust product are you going to use? that would be the deciding factor if you can prime-paint it afterwards and which primer to use. just remember to get the steel as clean as possible before you get into it.. otherwise it will just rust again
I've been around a lot of posts regarding POR-15 and now Rust Seal, Hyperlite & Rust Bullet... I'm looking them up right now and checking to see if they're up here in Canada.
Thanks guys...
#11
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All,
I spent a good part of a week applying Rust Bullet to my entire frame of my '85 4Runner. It was a very messy job and the stuff does NOT come off easily if you let it dry on your hands for more than 5 - 10 minutes. That being said, after researching POR-15 versus Rust Bullet, I think Rust Bullet has better claims and proof of effectiveness. If you go to their website, you see how it is used a lot in marine applications, which is the true test of any steel coating (paint, rust converter, etc). They even do a comparison between POR-15 and Rust Bullet. A lot of the advantages supposedly lie in surface preparation times. However, I prepped the surface aggressively just to be sure.
After two coats, it was like there was an extra layer of steel on my frame. The stuff gets very hard. Then, I just flat black primered the entire thing.
I guess only time will tell but I don't think you can go wrong with Rust Bullet.
Peace,
Justin
I spent a good part of a week applying Rust Bullet to my entire frame of my '85 4Runner. It was a very messy job and the stuff does NOT come off easily if you let it dry on your hands for more than 5 - 10 minutes. That being said, after researching POR-15 versus Rust Bullet, I think Rust Bullet has better claims and proof of effectiveness. If you go to their website, you see how it is used a lot in marine applications, which is the true test of any steel coating (paint, rust converter, etc). They even do a comparison between POR-15 and Rust Bullet. A lot of the advantages supposedly lie in surface preparation times. However, I prepped the surface aggressively just to be sure.
After two coats, it was like there was an extra layer of steel on my frame. The stuff gets very hard. Then, I just flat black primered the entire thing.
I guess only time will tell but I don't think you can go wrong with Rust Bullet.
Peace,
Justin
#12
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Is it correct to think that you can just paint over the rust with the por 15/Rust Bullet without stripping the metal or having to sand down all the rusty areas?
I want to apply this stuff; but I'm too lazy to sand down all the rusty spots on my frame, axle etc
I want to apply this stuff; but I'm too lazy to sand down all the rusty spots on my frame, axle etc
#15
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GodwinAustin - If you order POR-15, it will come with instructions on its application. I have mine and plan on applying it this summer. My understanding is that you only want to remove loose rust, but not all the rust. Apparently, it needs a rough surface rather than a smooth one to be effective.
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