how much does it cost to get a new clutch? i feel as if i need a new one. with the clutch pushed in all the way, it tends to have a hard time going into gear sometimes. tonight was the worst however. it hink its nothing but a downward spiral from here. any suggestions?

 

mine wasnt that much i think it was around 100 to 150 dollars but that was a while back and i cant remember real well but i did all the labor myself.

 

Not sure what it will cost you, but take care of it sooner, rather than later. When my clutch let go, the engine reved waaay too high and took out a bearing or rod. So, throw in the cost of an engine on top, if you're not careful!

 

For my 96 the dealer charged about $700 installed. That's with new pilot/TO bearings, resurfaced flywheel, labor, and all OEM parts (and a 12K mile warranty). I got a free rental car too.

I have done 2 clutches in the past, and just didnt want to deal with it again. It sucks without a lift.


You will save about $300 if you do it yourself.

 

My Marlin clutch was under $200 and it took about 10 hrs to do with help from a buddy. We worked slow and took a lot of breaks. Have someone help you lower and raise the tranny - it is HEAVY! Other than that it is a straightforward clutch swap. Have the flywheel resurface and make sure you replace the throwout and pilot bearings while you are there.

 

Dont forget the clutch alignment tool, the special tool for the flywheel removal, and marking the driveshaft bolts for proper R&R.

It's not that easy.

A FSM is highly recommended also.

 

Check your clutch master and slave cylinder and make sure they're not leaking before forking over the $ for a new clutch.

 

Special tool for flywheel removal? I had 8 bolts on my 2nd gen. Yes, be sure to mark your flywheel so that you install it in the same position, mark your driveshafts, etc. You should get a clutch alignment tool with the new clutch. Use locktite on the flywheel bolts so that they don't loosen. The most important thing about doing a clutch is to be as clean as possible as oily hands touching the clutch disk will cause slippage. I worked in my driveway - no lift needed. I did put jackstands under the front and raised it 4" to make the truck level. Be safe - the tranny and transfer case are very heavy - the balance point is almost all the way to the rear due to the weight of the transfer case.

 

Well, you need something to keep the flywheel from spinning while you are breaking the bolts loose. A special tool is recommended by the FSM, however there are many shade tree mechanic ways to get around it as I am sure you know.

 

Gotcha. I used a claw hammer. Locked the claw on a flywheel tooth and the other end against the frame.

 

When I had my clutch changed at the dealer, the resurfaced my fly wheel while it was still bolted on. All they do is take a die grinder (some call it a wizz wheel ) with some light sand paper and run it over the flywheel in a circular motion. I saw this done myself because it was a buddy of mine at the Toy dealer that was doing the work, and he said that is how they resurface all of them. I am not saying that is the proper way to do it, I am just saying that you might not have to take off the fly-wheel. Other wise it is a straight forward proccess to change. Make note of the orientation of the old clutch plate, as to which face is against the fly wheel and the other against the pres. plate so you can put the new clutch on the same way.