I think with the miles per tank we need to know how many gallons. Both my 99 and 00 have the problem with the gauge. I am filling 13 gallons when the light comes on. I am going a little over 200 on mine any my wife gets about 250 per tank. I think Steve may be getting a full 18 gallons for his 350 miles. ??

 

auto

And I guess if your'e getting 180 on interstate, I'm not too bad at 200. This is when the light first comes on.

 

Yeah, I might could get 200 when the light comes on, maybe.

 

with 285s and the s/c I get around 200 miles per tank (tank=13-14 gallons).
4.10 and AT. I am going to 4.56 and hopefully get a couple more miles per tank. Not too bad considering...

 

I usually get about 220-230 on the interstate before the light comes on with my 285's, SC, and 4.10's. That's with about 14-15 gallons and I can stretch it to 250 if I want, but the needle's almost in negative territory by then...

I'm pulling the SC the same day the 4.56's go in and if I'm right, I shoudl gain about 1MPG and pay $0.20 per gallon less and have a front locker and better dependability to boot...

 

Now isn't that what me and Banjo boy said all along........

Looks like I was right about the 85. Not cheaper than the 3rd Gen.

Here's another one, SASing a 3rd Gen is an unfathomable amount of work and should not even be considered unless, YOU have some good welding and fabrication skills. A Tacoma SAS is considerably easier.

 

yup, you said it, but, do you also remember how much i have in that SC? it was a deal that i don't regret one bit. now that i've had it, it's been fun, but i know from experience that it's not what i was looking for. now i know. i won't post it here, but it was one hellova good deal. now, i can sell the SC, regear AND lock and still have money left over - maybe only enough to buy a value meal at McDonalds, but some left over none-the-less.

with that said, i'm looking at pulling the SC, changing the timing belt and water pump, replacing the fan w/ an electric one from a taurus and using a gradient controller with variable fan speeds. on the same weekend, i'm pulling the front diff and rear third and replacing them w/ the regeared/locked diff/third. all in the same weekend. i'm thinking the SC pull and Intake install will be about 2 hours. The timing belt and water pump will be about another 3 hours. The fan swap will only be about an hour since the OEM fan is pulled to change the timing belt. pulling the front diff is where i'm not sure about my time. the rear third seems easy, and should only take an hour or two at most, but then again, i haven't done it before. i'm pulling my arb'd third and replaceing it w/ an open one tomorrow - guess i'll find out then.

my Q for you is how bad is it to pull the front diff? i've heard nightmare-ish, but i also don't know the wrenching skills of those involved. what should i plan on? 3 hours? 4?

yeah, it looked like you almost bit off more than you could chew w/ the SAS project. it's very nice now that you've completed it for the most part, but doing it was hell to say the least.

 

There is a "special" allen key socket that you need to remove the rear mount of the front diff.

I don't know what it is or even have one. Kong's put my gears in as well as the RD90. When we pulled it for the SAS we just cut the crossmember out with the thing still bolted up.

So other than that, it's really not that hard, getting the IFS axles out is sort of a pain.

 

IFS axles don't scare me... I've changed them on my old acura legend w/ a lot less room to work, so these should be easy...

anything special for the rear other than the toyota orange FIPG?

 

OMG. Local quote for installing gears. Keep in mind this is WITH ME SUPPLYING GEARS. $1400 installed. WOW. I know that it takes skill, time, a specific tools, but at $70 per hour labor, does it take 20 hours to change gears ? No lockers, just gears. Granted this is with me take the entire truck to them

 

oh hell no. 1 hour to pull the front diff, 30 min to pull the rear third. pull the front diff housing apart, pull the diff out, remove the ring gear and pinion, replace the ring gear and pinion and check tolerance and adjust as necessary - about 3 hours. same for the rear. reinstall into rig, about another 1.5 to 2 hours.

i'd say about 10 hours AT MOST.

don't use them. you can buy "donor" diff/third shells for about $300 total including shipping. my guy will set them up for $300 on the bench and then you can ship them to/from for another $100. that's $700 total plus another $500 for the gears for a total bill of $1200. then you can sell your front and rear 4.10 diff/third and recover another $300, dropping the cost to $900 including gears and two master install kits...

 

Marlin hates that orange stuff. We used it on my Crawler when we had to pull in here in AZ and it leaked. Marlin got pissed at me and told me to use the Gray stuff. I did and it does not leak.

He was right. I used the gray stuff on the Dana 44 and it does not leak.

Kongs used some black stuff on my rear and it does not leak.

Here is what Marlin pimps and it is really nice stuff.

http://www.marlincrawler.com/misc.html

 

my regear cost 800 including gears / master install kits.

pulling the rear is a 30 min. job.

The front is tricky because of the all the hoses, and the uncomfortability of reaching inside above the cross members.

And also you're not taking into account any problems you might find. Ie rust/seized bolts. That was a big problem on my rear. Had to heat it up and bang it apart.

 

if the 4-runner is the same as a taco then the "special" allen socket steve was talking about is a 12mm standard allen wrench or socket, i recomend the 1/2" drive socket with a 1/2" drive impact wrench!! the booger is loc-tited and torqued hard! the rear is cake,just be sure to pull the axles all the way out,don't leave them hanging in the tubes,and bleed your brakes when you're done(i know,but i had to say it anyway!!!) later


Ernie

 

Off topic, Andy I'm having trouble e-mailing you, drop me an e-mail dragr@charter.net

 

The biggest pain in the we dealt with on my front diff swap was just the thing getting out. The allen bolt was a pain but it took almost an hour just to figure out the right angle to hold the diff to allow everything to slip out. Once we figured that out it wasn't too bad. And then one of the axles wouldn't seat right. It took maybe 3.5 hours with the problems.

When I fragged my original rear 3rd, I watched the Toyota mechanic do the diff swap (done under warranty) and he used the black stuff from the same brand. The gray stuff is what is currently on my rear diff. I have not experienced any leaks with either type.

I'm hoping to pull my S/C this weekend.

 

Wonder if this has something to do with my gas mileage?

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/p0136-code-question-sensor-55125/

 

Latest update, I'm over 400 miles now. Just ran through another tank of gas and the mpg is terrible. I'm thinking I've got something else wrong causing my mpg woes. Anyway, I went 165.6 indicated miles on 12.5 gallons.

I worked it 2 ways:

Andy's way according to his chart: Corrected miles=155.98
mpg=12.48

Using the 14% off indicated on the speedo: Corrected mileage=188.78
mpg=15.1 mpg

This is on a tank of 100% town driving. Either way the mpg sucks, it popped up a P0171 code a week ago (please see the link to my other thread above). I had autozone turn off the code and it has not come back. I'm thinking I have a bad 02 sensor, anyone else think that?
If so, front or back sensor?

 

Which bolts in particular on the rear were a problem. Just wondering so I can brace myself for when I do mine.

 

just the ones on the diff housing.

And dragr, as for your mileage, I think you should be reading the 14% one. Because I had my mom in her rental car drive the same exact distance I did for over 50 miles, and my odo was off by 13%. So add the 13% and I get around 16 mpg city. Factor in your roof rack and spare will drop it by 1 mpg, and you're gettin 15. Sounds fair