specialblend

Hey guys,

I got my 97 4runner 4x4 5speed 3.4 SR5 at about 143k and had my mechanic do a full fluid change and check of my new purchase. Just changed spark plugs and fluids and it was good.

Then rear passenger axel seal started leaking, and before I could get it checked (probably put it off a bit too long) my rear passenger inner axel failed and slid out on me. I've been reading a ton on here and learning, starting to do many things myself, but an axel rebuild wasn't in my skill set YET! So we found one in good shape (needed the housing and assy) and the shop rebuilt it. I also got my timing belt (including water pump) done since I needed to do it soon anyways and got one nice massive repair bill. So maybe I'm a bit paranoid now but I just want to double check and see if anybody recommends anything else.

All other fluids look good and are at good levels.

I'm running 5W30 synthetic and it's good. I did notice the levels dropping a bit and topped it up, so I checked underneath and noticed a tiny bit of oil drip from the bottom of the engine housing (I'll try to get a picture of it tomorrow). Sort of just appears around where the engine housing connects (not sure if it's normal).

Greased my driveshaft.

I noticed a slight ticking from the vacuum but has recently gone away.

I think that's about it, any other maintenance or parts I should check?

offset442

change the bearing on the other axle too, its my experience in more than one truck they go very close together, toyota chose the worst possible bearing arangement for there rear axles I hate it. any time the gear oil breaches the seal and soaks the bearing change the bearing, the gear oil will cause the bearing to fail in about 15k miles not to mention the mess it makes out of the rear brakes!!!!. im probably going to take heat on this but the #1 cause of bearing failure is over lubrication or improper lubricant go look it up. also using the "slide hammer pipe" back yard method and not a press will cause the bearing to fail in 30k-60k miles

the 3.4 is a very bulet proof engine except for the valves, it likes to eat exhaust valves, especially the #2 jug in dusty climates like i live in because the intake directs most of the crap that gets by the filter to that first port for some reason (never run k&n in the dirt guaranteed sucked valve). you should check the valve clearance every 60-100k miles with a feeler gauge and record the measurements somewhere so you can detect a failing valve early, to make sure no valves are stretching. your engine is at the age where it is critical to watch for valve problems most of the time they can be stopped by swapping in a thinner shim, giving thousands more trouble free miles before the first head swap, other wise if you do nothing your going to to likely swap a head or do just a valve before 200k because of a cat converter code and a low speed misfire code. if a valve stretches too much it looses vital cooling time contact with the head and it burns

the oil leak is likely a pan gasket or worse a leaky rear main, none of which can realistically properly fixed while the engine sits in the truck IMHO. although if you have tow package dont forget to cheak the oil cooler though these dont leak normally anything is possible. another possibility is a leaking valve cover half moon bore plug, end cap, or gasket, dont forget to make these right when you do the valve clearance check.

my very recent experience, upper/lower ball joints should be changed so you know how old they are and what shape they are in, no inspection can really help here, they are about your best defance to not loosing complete steering / braking control of your truck and being hurt or killed.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/h...-truck-280400/

specialblend

You mean the other axel in the rear? They rebuilt the whole thing, new seals, bearings, I'll have to check the parts list again not on me at the moment. He was explaining how the ring presses on which failed as well, so I'm sure they pressed it on properly.

Only problem was they cleaned my existing shoes and drum of diff oil and recently got some vibrations and a super hot passenger drum. Think drum is slightly warped in one spot, heading back to the shop tomorrow so they can check it and probably machine it. If that doesn't help I'll just replace the shoes and drum (if so is it best to replace both sides with new parts so they all align properly or just get 1 new drum? since one is warped a bit I believe).

It's not too dusty where I live, it rains a lot. Good to know about the K&N, was about to pick one up, time to replace my current filter, should I just stick with standard air filters or get a different aftermarket cleanable one?

I don't have tow package and pretty sure PO didn't tow much, there's no hitch.

Hmm I'll look into getting some ball joint and replacing them. Hopefully I can find some at a decent price, things are starting to add up haha. But would rather get things fixed up properly before wheeling. I mostly just drive highway.

Sorry to hear about your ball joint busting, ya my rear axel was an expensive learning experience in preventative maintenance.

specialblend

Ok so I was a bit wrong, they reused my existing drums but used the shoes that came with the used axel, lots of shoe left, sanded down and they machined my drum so it's even now.

offset442

sorry I mis-read your post, sounded to me like they just rebuild the axle stub on the side that tanked, good thing all the way around, Just accrued to me that you should watch for gear oil leaks, I have hand problems with having other people do my axles so now i press them myself, because if it has abs brakes, there is a locking ring that holds the bearing implace then an an abs exciter ring and then another locking ring that for there no other purpose then riding in the inner seal to keep the diff oil at bay, its been my experience that most mechanics screw up positioning this last ring and in never seals correctly leading to a premature failure, keep you nose sharp for the smell of gear oil, a quick test i do is drive with the e-brake on for a short time (40mph 2 blocks or so) to heat up the drums, then i go smeal for the aroma of diff oil and if i smell it I pull the drum and look for leaks. I carry a lot of weight in my tucks, and just eats the cheap sealed electric motor single race ball bearing style that toyota chose.

I have round that i like the cheap fram air filter made out of synthetic filter cloth, it is washable and can be washed with purple cleaner several times and reused if you cheap like me. i have also run k&n filter oil on thse cheap filters when working in dusty places, while it cost fuel efficany it keeps lbs of super fine dust out, as evidanced by the 2cm think deposits after a few week working in river silt moon dust.

bummer about not having tow package, that oil cooler is a nice thing to have I think it keeps the oil from even turning black after 7000 miles, I have never seen the cooled oil in my 3.4(s) get too darkly coloured to clearly see the marks on the stick under the oil even after 289k hard miles of engine age, i think the cooler helps stabilise the oil a lot, i don't run super fancy oil, I just run cheap mobile-one clean 5000 5w30w in a hot clemate upto 9k miles between oil changes which works out to an oil change ever 3 moths. whenever i have had the motors apart or uncovered for serice thay are always clean on the inside with no carbon or slugde ever.

the upper ball joints dont really carry any weight they only hold the spindle upright and allow the spindles to turn unlike the the lower joints that can be changed with a hammer, 19mm wrench and a 14mm socket, the uppers have to be pressued out with a ball joint press kit tool, but can be done with the lower still attached, these are a pia to change but with the part cost starting at $12 I woud do it for pice of mind and a fresh grease boot

the lowers carry the full weight load with the ball pulling against the socket (*), they are fairly easy to change if you have the tools. cost for the joints is $32 for cheap autozone and about 70 for oem i went for oe quality.

anyway you have a nice ride, keep feeding it a study diet of TLC and it will keep going until that winter climate rusts the doors off

*(older pick-ups had torsion springs ontop that had the weight pushing down from socket into the ball )

TheDurk

Not just ball joints, but you need to examine the whole front suspension, shocks, inner and outer TRE's, sway bar end links and mount bushings, rack bushings, etc. Depending on usage, they are all either end-of-life or just shot if factory.

offset442

agreed

specialblend

Ya I could understand that, it's still in the back of my mind when I drive but I trust the shop that did it. My buddy's a mechanic and apprenticed there, the shop owner he learned from rebuilt my axel.

Ya I have ABS, I'll try your test and see but I've been doing a few 40min highway drives and before I got my drum machined when I heated up, I smelled around it after I felt the heat but didn't smell anything (I know the smell perfectly well now from when it was leaking on my old axel).

I'll grab one of those filters next time, sounds like all I need.

I'm running synthetic and am used to changing regular oil around every 5000km but am just over 7000km and still clear as new, most people say synthetic can go every 10,000km or so?

I think I'll do a good check with my mechanic buddy sometime, he's got a good garage with everything, I'll just bring him a bunch of beer and he can just stand there and tell me how to check all the things you guys mentioned haha.

Thanks again.

specialblend

Hey guys just wanted to update you on what I've done and what I'm working on next.

Recently replaced steering rack guide and bushings which has helped my steering from wandering a lot.

Still get a knocking while off road on washboard type roads, ended up just getting it inspected at Toyota and they found some play in inner tie rods, but I think while I'm at it and have to get an alignment I am going to change Inners, outters and lower ball joints.

Just want to make sure I'm getting the right parts. Going OEM outer tie rods and lower ball joints and RAYBESTOS Part # 4011883 Professional Grade Inner tie rods from RockAuto.

Also going to get new sway bar end links.

http://screencast.com/t/6dPXwO3BvYNf

When I took it to Toyota to figure out where a rear clunk was coming from, they couldn't reproduce it but it's back on certain bumps I go over, the tech suggested I replace the lower shock bushings. I'm going to double check but think I found some Energy Suspension bushings I can press in.