I just order a Lock-Right locker for my 94 V6 4Runner, and was wondering if anyone can recommend somewhere in Orange County California to do the install.

I might try it myself except the Apartments won't allow it, and I don't have all the tools I would need anyway.

Thanks

Andy

 

i went to 4wheelparts in santa ana, they did it for 277, drivetrain direct also does it in corona for i think 350, unitrax who quoted me i think 300, and hicks4x4 for 225ish.

 

How can they tell, just climb under, disconnect drive shaft, pull third member, carry it into the apartment, do all the installation there, carry back out the the truck, install it, hook up drive shaft and test drive. this is how I used to work on things when I lived in an apartment. a friend of mine rebuilt an engine in his living room and then wheeled it out at about 7pm one night and we dropped it in then the next morning finished it up, haha, then he used mcguires to spot clean the apartment carpet, that stuff works good.

 

Well from what I'm reading at this
write up : You have to place the rear on Jack stands, remove the tires, brakes, and axels to be able to remove the Third member.

I got a quote from Unitrax to do the install for $175.00.

Thanks for the responses
Andy

 

that's a good price!

i left that out because that's sort of a given and I figured you'd just put it up on jack stands with the tires maybe an inch from the ground {not too noticeable}, leave tires on, disconnect brake line and cap off, unbolt four flange nuts and pull the axles about 4 inches out support so the axles don't crush the seal, remove the third member, slide axles (with wheel still attached) back in and thread one nut on each flange, then go in and install the locker and come back out and reverse the above. it's cool though if you can afford to have someone else do it.

 

Hey that write-up is for the detroit true-trac, the install for that is quite a bit more involved as you have to remove the ring gear to install it. the lock-right should be just a drop in and so you won't be having to fiddle with setting the backlash and all that jazz since you won't be pressing anything on or removing the gears. a wrench and screwdrivers are about all you should need for the lock-right. somewhere I've seen a write-up on the locker you are installing, I'll try to find it.

Look at this site:

Lock-Right Install

 

Thanks keisur

Yeah! I posted the wrong write-up. The one I wanted was just below it.

I really don't have alot of money and would love to do it myself. I guess I'm just a little worried something will go wrong since I've never done this before. I have repaired my own cars in past, 20 years in the past but never a Differential.

Thanks Again

Andy

 

hehe, I smell a good experiment coming along. that's cool. I'm used to only having the money to buy the part so I am forced to do it myself. there are lots of things I won't touch though since I know nothing about and need the runner to get to work. can't blame you there. I buddy of mine installed that locker in a couple of hours and had never done a diff before either. sounds like your being smart though, trying to think of everything before you dive in, I'm usually not that smart and end up breaking something.

 

I don't think that write-up is for the true-trac....I believe he already has the true-trac on his front diff, and his rear was still open. And so, I think that write-up's of him having the Detroit locker installed in the rear. At least it seams like it to me from reading it.

Salue

 

all the same, that detoit softlocker still requires the ring gear to be removed and bolted onto the locker and then reninstalled and gears setup. this is not the case with the lock-right, which was my point.

 

I did not realize you didn't have to do that w/ the lock-rite.

Salue

 

yes, the lock-right doesn't have the ring gear bolted to it. it just slips inside the carrier and replaces the spider kit. that's why there's no need to setup gears.

 

Well Keisur, you talked me into it. I going to buy a socket set (someone stole my tools) and do the install myself. The money I save on labor will more than pay for the tools. Autozone loans torque wrenches for free.

Is there any special wrenches I need. Just trying to get ready.

I hope to take pictures from beginning to end. If the camera I bought on E-bay arrives in time.

Thanks again
Andy

 

No special stuff that I can remember or think of but, you don't even have a socket set? make sure you get some extensions and if possible a u-joint socket extension because sometimes it's hard to torque one or two of the flange bolts for the driveshaft. it also helps if you can get ahold of a 3/8" drive torque wrench instead of a 1/2" because it has a smaller head, sometimes bigger isn't better . also, the 3rd is heavy, I would suggest putting a floor jack under it so you can disconnect the ten bolts and roll it toward the front and then lower it and pull it out from under. When you get this job done you will have gained knowledge, gained some tools, and most of all you'll be proud of yourself and can brag about doing the job yourself to your buddy's. good luck. if you need any help once you get your digital cam and the locker email me and I'll see what I can do. I've helped a couple dudes do the lock-right installs so if there is a question, between me and you and my buddy's we can figure it out.

 

Thanks

I do have a 3/8" rachet and some 1/2" extension that the thieves missed. Will a 3/8" socket be big enough? Well I'm saving $175.00 doing it myself I can probably afford both.

I have a floor jack, a hydraulic jack, and jack stands. I think the biggest socket I will need is a 24mm.

The Locker probably won't arrive until next week.
I'll keep you informed.


Andy

 

I like to use a 3/8" on everything because the only 6-point sockets I have are 3/8" - I hate 12 points because its to easy to round soft metal bolts (like filler plugs). what I did was go to sears and bought one of their 6 point 1/2" drive impact sockets for the 24mm because I had already screwed up on filler plug on the rear since toyota torqued it on there to much. if you use a 3/8" you might want to have a long breaker bar on hand just in case because the 3/8 ratchet handle might not be long enough to get much torque to undo the bolts. that is about the only time I'll switch to 1/2" if I have to. one of these days I'll sport for a good set of 6 point 1/2 inchers. I had some stuff stolen once from a car in high school, boy I was p.o.'d since I could afford to replace anything then and my dad only carried liability so nothing got replaced or fixed.

 

I just received my Locker and I'm beginning to read the instructions. I was hoping that maybe someone knows the torgue sequence and specs for finishing the install.

Also what Lube do you recomend to use. I remeber from years ago when I tried to use one of those hand pumps to replace the gear oil, it was nearly impossibly. It was like trying to suck a watermellon thru a straw.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Andy

 

if you have an air compressor you can just cut a hole a little smaller than the od of some tubing in the cap of the gear oil bottle and install the tubing through the hole to the bottom of the bottle and put the other end in the filler hole of the diff. then, punch another hole (above the oil level in the bottle and small enough so the airgun nipple will seal) and wedge your airgun nipple in it and apply about 10-15 psi to the bottle and it should squirt the gear oil into the diff.

there is a write up for this little helper but I don't remember where it is.