4orest

My runner started stalling after start up a couple weeks as is get to the end of my driveway. I checked the IAC after looking here and cleaned it, (wasnt bound up just dirty). Didn't make a difference. Pulled into a parking lot the other day and it stalled again after a 45 min long drive down the freeway. This time it won't start. 150,000 miles on it. New timing belt & water pump 5K ago. When I turn on the key I can hear the fuel pump cycle but don't know the psi its pushing. Going to check spark now. Any other ideas?

4orest

Just checked for spark, no spark. Fuses are good. Can't imagine all 3 coils going at once. Where do they get their power from?

4orest

Crank or cam positioning sensor if does it have both?

rworegon

Possibly the Circuit Opening Relay (COR) died. There are threads here regarding the COR.

Are other electrical components, radio, AC, heater fan, lights, etc. working?

4orest

Thank you for the reply. I found the problem. The crank pulley bolt backed out and the pulley walked leaving the crank position sensor with no pick up. The new problem is the key sheered and seems to have become "one" with the crank end. Can't distinguish the left over portion of the key from the surface of the crank...

rworegon

Welcome. Ouch! Others have has the same problem from the crank bolt not getting correctly torqued to 217 ft-lbs...not sure of the metric spec....300 N m comes to mind.

Clean the end of the crank with brake cleaner and then use a bright light and see if you can detect the key.

Inspect the crank and pulley to be sure they are not out of round.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

this is why toyota suggests using a new bolt and the bolt will come with some thread lock on it.

TheDurk

The keyway is 90% under the crank sprocket when it is fully in place. Have you removed the sprocket? The keyway may just be hidden undeneath the sprocket if it is forward by more than 1/4" as that is all that goes into the pulley.

rworegon

Good point! I forgot how little of the key actually goes into the pulley.