How I read my fuel pressure
07-03-2010, 07:09 PM
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How I read my fuel pressure
Checking fuel pressure isn't so easy on a 3rd gen T4R. I did this to trouble-shoot slow start issue. I can see that the rail doesn't get primed when key is turned to "on". And I can see that fuel pressure is constant, indicating a broken FPR. I still get 22 mpg, meaning the O2 feedback is working quite well! Anyways, thought I'd just throw this up in case anyone was wondering. Oh, I also tried to separate the 2 high pressure hoses before the rail but the fitting simply won't loosen. I didn't want to make matters worse so I went this way.
I think I got the elbows at the hardware store, the banjo bolt is custom part from Actron (? I think), I have one more for sale if anyone wants it. It actually used to have a schrader valve on the end. That got cut off though, I don't think a normal fuel pressure gauge will fit on the end and I didn't have one anyways.
Oh, the elbow actually didn't work because it sticks out too far. Good thing I picked up a straight npt to barbed fitting at the same time.
As you can see, I had to plug the end and drill/tap one of the flats of the banjo bolt. I then soldered the threads and connected it to the end of the rail. You'll want multiple copper washers to work with, as their thickness will determine the orientation of the barbed fitting when it's tightened down. Oh yeah, ou actually won't be able to screw the NPT adapter to the banjo bolt until the bolt is tight. Again, not enough room!
If you get it just right, the hose will stick out where it needs to go.
From there, point it to your face and voila!
I think I got the elbows at the hardware store, the banjo bolt is custom part from Actron (? I think), I have one more for sale if anyone wants it. It actually used to have a schrader valve on the end. That got cut off though, I don't think a normal fuel pressure gauge will fit on the end and I didn't have one anyways.
Oh, the elbow actually didn't work because it sticks out too far. Good thing I picked up a straight npt to barbed fitting at the same time.
As you can see, I had to plug the end and drill/tap one of the flats of the banjo bolt. I then soldered the threads and connected it to the end of the rail. You'll want multiple copper washers to work with, as their thickness will determine the orientation of the barbed fitting when it's tightened down. Oh yeah, ou actually won't be able to screw the NPT adapter to the banjo bolt until the bolt is tight. Again, not enough room!
If you get it just right, the hose will stick out where it needs to go.
From there, point it to your face and voila!
07-04-2010, 06:23 AM
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Just for reference here's the FSM procedure for checking fuel pressure: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repa...fuepum/ovi.pdf
07-04-2010, 08:28 AM
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Guess it would have been a lot quicker to get that union and union bolt from the dealer, if available! I wasn't expecting to have to modify the banjo bolt I bought from Actron. But no one here had any experience with it that I know of. Oh well.
Also, you can just drill and tap the stock bolt and potentially fit the elbow onto it. But I can't guarantee that there would be enough room to thread it once installed. And there isn't much material to the stock bolt so I would only install temporarily that way. Mine's been on since winter, been waiting to replace the FPR but that job looks like a pain as well.
Also, you can just drill and tap the stock bolt and potentially fit the elbow onto it. But I can't guarantee that there would be enough room to thread it once installed. And there isn't much material to the stock bolt so I would only install temporarily that way. Mine's been on since winter, been waiting to replace the FPR but that job looks like a pain as well.
Last edited by LifeOnABoard; 07-04-2010 at 08:31 AM.
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