Help with clutch noise.
Sep 7, 2006 | 09:53 AM
#1
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From: UTAH
Help with clutch noise.
Hey guys I have a prob.. I have a 97 4runner 3.4, with a manual transmision (hence the clutch). It has 110,000 miles on it. My problem is the runner is making a whining noise while the clutch is out, not being engaged.. The sound goes away when I push the clutch in. I havent noticed any performance loss, or clutch slipping since i noticed this problem. It has been makin the sound for a while now, and is getting annoying. I notice this sound i lounder in the mornings when i first start it, probably due to higher engine speeds. Please let me know what you think so I can get this fixed. Once again thanks for all your help, Tyson. ..YT RULES..
Sep 7, 2006 | 10:56 AM
#3
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From: Fort Worth, TX
I would say go to this thread, this guy found a way to stop his clutch from squeaking while the pedal was out...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...=clutch+squeak
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...=clutch+squeak
Sep 7, 2006 | 11:41 AM
#4
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From: UTAH
Well ill have to run out and throw some grease up in there.. I kind of think this is not the prob, because i think i have to push my clutch in a ways for it to stop makin sound. And it is a solid whine (almost sounds like a supercharger, i wish). I do hope this fixes the problem. If not It looks like ill be puttin a new clutch in there.. If so what brand and where should I put in there? Also I have searched and havent found a good answer. Is it hard to do a clutch in the 3rd gens? Is there a write up?
Sep 7, 2006 | 11:57 AM
#5
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From: Morgan Hill, Ca
To?
Hey guys I have a prob.. I have a 97 4runner 3.4, with a manual transmision (hence the clutch). It has 110,000 miles on it. My problem is the runner is making a whining noise while the clutch is out, not being engaged.. The sound goes away when I push the clutch in. I havent noticed any performance loss, or clutch slipping since i noticed this problem. It has been makin the sound for a while now, and is getting annoying. I notice this sound i lounder in the mornings when i first start it, probably due to higher engine speeds. Please let me know what you think so I can get this fixed. Once again thanks for all your help, Tyson. ..YT RULES..
Anyone know?
Sep 7, 2006 | 12:11 PM
#7
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From: Greenville, South Carolina
It's definetly the throwout bearing. Did you check out the last post on that link above? There is a linkage between the master cylinder and the clutch pedal itself that can be adjusted longer or shorter. Adjust it to make it longer and it should take the chirping and squealing away. Mine has the squeaks too and i'll be looking at this fix this weekend to get rid of the chirps.
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Sep 8, 2006 | 03:30 AM
#10
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From: N34* 06.000 W084* 27.000
As I mentioned in chat, spraying lithium greese into the transmission behind the slave clutch cylinder is only a temporary solution. Spray too much and your clutch may start slipping.
I have a different squeak in mine. I believe I'm about to blow a seal in the MC. Parts are on order and we'll see what changes.
I have a different squeak in mine. I believe I'm about to blow a seal in the MC. Parts are on order and we'll see what changes.
Sep 8, 2006 | 03:59 AM
#11
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From: UTAH
I was wondering exactly where to spray the grease... I see the boot and pulled it off, but cant see into the transmission. I was wondering if i just spray all around that shaft goin into the trans, or is there a certain spot to spray to just get the to bearing? I dont want to get the clutch with the grease as I dont want it to fail (anymore). If there is a pic i havent been able to find one. And as i said before this will just be a temp fix till i change the clutch, but i want to make sure this is the prob first. Thanks allot guys.
Sep 8, 2006 | 10:18 AM
#12
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From: Mill Creek, Washington
Just an update, I adjusted my clutch lastnight and no more crickets. I am very excited about this. Also, I am very anal about my truck and wanted to make sure I wasn't adjusting it to the point it was pushing on the bearing, just resting. I did some creative measurements and found that 1/8" of extension on the clutch rod equals 1/4" of movement on the clutch arm at the bearing. There was approximately 1/4" of movement available at the arm before it would start putting pressure on the clutch springs so 1/8" was perfect for me and won't cause any clutch wear because it wasn't putting any force on the clutch springs. For me 1/8" was 12 clockwise revolutions.
Ok I kinda rambled but it appears that when people hear crickets it is caused by the clutch arm not resting on the bearing and the bearing floats back and forth between the arm and the clutch springs. Remove the slack, crickets go away.
Best fix ever!
Ok I kinda rambled but it appears that when people hear crickets it is caused by the clutch arm not resting on the bearing and the bearing floats back and forth between the arm and the clutch springs. Remove the slack, crickets go away.
Best fix ever!
Last edited by Mickdady; Sep 8, 2006 at 10:19 AM.
Sep 1, 2009 | 08:57 PM
#13
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Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Midwest
Alright I know this thread is old, but hopefully someone can help me.
I got the squeak too it's driven me crazy, and I went under the dash where the pedals were and adjusted the push rod by turnin it. I keep turning till it stops, but the squeak is still there.
Which way should I twist it to lengthen it?
Did I have to adjust the pedal height too for it to lengthen?
Any help is appreciated. I can't stand it when there's somethin wrong with my yota.
I got the squeak too it's driven me crazy, and I went under the dash where the pedals were and adjusted the push rod by turnin it. I keep turning till it stops, but the squeak is still there.
Which way should I twist it to lengthen it?
Did I have to adjust the pedal height too for it to lengthen?
Any help is appreciated. I can't stand it when there's somethin wrong with my yota.
Sep 3, 2009 | 07:32 AM
#14
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Joined: May 2006
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From: Morgan Hill, Ca
Alright I know this thread is old, but hopefully someone can help me.
I got the squeak too it's driven me crazy, and I went under the dash where the pedals were and adjusted the push rod by turnin it. I keep turning till it stops, but the squeak is still there.
Which way should I twist it to lengthen it?
Did I have to adjust the pedal height too for it to lengthen?
Any help is appreciated. I can't stand it when there's somethin wrong with my yota.
I got the squeak too it's driven me crazy, and I went under the dash where the pedals were and adjusted the push rod by turnin it. I keep turning till it stops, but the squeak is still there.
Which way should I twist it to lengthen it?
Did I have to adjust the pedal height too for it to lengthen?
Any help is appreciated. I can't stand it when there's somethin wrong with my yota.
I'd be tempted to try WD-40 which should provide a temporary fix to the noise, if you hit the right spot. Then you'd know for sure that this was the source of the noise.
Sep 3, 2009 | 12:08 PM
#15
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Posts: 588
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From: Midwest
Well I've been reading around for a while and my problem is pretty much exactly the same as this one. When I press the clutch down the sound goes away, but when it's out, it makes a little chirping noise. It don't matter if it's in neutral or reverse, whenever the clutch is out it'll make that noise.
I tried adjusting the push rod link to the clutch master cylinder as suggested in the link, but I just messed it up and the squeak is still there. Then I ended up burnin some clutch around town and wasn't able to fix it until I got home.
I don't want to ruin it even more with WD-40. That's why I'm asking how to properly adjust it. I know a squeak is a little thing, but it's been driving me crazy.
I tried adjusting the push rod link to the clutch master cylinder as suggested in the link, but I just messed it up and the squeak is still there. Then I ended up burnin some clutch around town and wasn't able to fix it until I got home.
I don't want to ruin it even more with WD-40. That's why I'm asking how to properly adjust it. I know a squeak is a little thing, but it's been driving me crazy.
Nov 22, 2017 | 11:09 AM
#16
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,112
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From: Portland, Oregon, USA
Simply telling you your Trany's main bearings are going going gone... just a matter of time...
I strongly suggest , for now run your clutch to it's change time , hoping your Trany bearings last that long , then when you pull the Trany , have a shop replace the bearings , A complete rebuild if you can offord it and are keeping the car , it is always a good investment !!!
or change to an automatic trany if possible and be done with it...
FOR NOW , put half a bottle of seafoam in the Trany and as you have the rear axle on jack stands take your weels off but put back a couple of opposite log nuts back on to keep the drums in place , then run the Trany changing gears every couple of minutes , but ALWAYS idling (do not accelerate ever duing this) , after 15 - 20 minutes , using all safety prcauions , drain he Tranny Completely (1/2 hour) ,
then fill with suggested fluid , make sure your filler tube is half a foot inside the Trany ,
And now you have done the best you could do to make up for the neglect that poor Tranny has endured (must CHECK the FLUID LEVEL no less than once a month , on the Trany & both transfer cases if it's 4WD & the rear axle differential)
!!!! ALL THE BEST !!!!
- I HAD BLEEDING SHOULDER BLADES ON MY BACK WHEN I WAS DONE WITH THE 4WD TRANY'S
R&R...
I strongly suggest , for now run your clutch to it's change time , hoping your Trany bearings last that long , then when you pull the Trany , have a shop replace the bearings , A complete rebuild if you can offord it and are keeping the car , it is always a good investment !!!
or change to an automatic trany if possible and be done with it...
FOR NOW , put half a bottle of seafoam in the Trany and as you have the rear axle on jack stands take your weels off but put back a couple of opposite log nuts back on to keep the drums in place , then run the Trany changing gears every couple of minutes , but ALWAYS idling (do not accelerate ever duing this) , after 15 - 20 minutes , using all safety prcauions , drain he Tranny Completely (1/2 hour) ,
then fill with suggested fluid , make sure your filler tube is half a foot inside the Trany ,
And now you have done the best you could do to make up for the neglect that poor Tranny has endured (must CHECK the FLUID LEVEL no less than once a month , on the Trany & both transfer cases if it's 4WD & the rear axle differential)
!!!! ALL THE BEST !!!!
- I HAD BLEEDING SHOULDER BLADES ON MY BACK WHEN I WAS DONE WITH THE 4WD TRANY'S
R&R...
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=boPbjotHSE0
.
the above is a YouTube link...
on that same page on YouTube
There also is info on the adjustment you are seeking...!
When you disengage the clutch in idle you are stopping the Main Trany Shaft from turnin , so the bearing noise stops...
just make sure they replace the bearings with the best high performnce bearings... more pricey but well worthed...!!!!
Good luck budd !!!
.
the above is a YouTube link...
on that same page on YouTube
There also is info on the adjustment you are seeking...!
When you disengage the clutch in idle you are stopping the Main Trany Shaft from turnin , so the bearing noise stops...
just make sure they replace the bearings with the best high performnce bearings... more pricey but well worthed...!!!!
Good luck budd !!!
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