Steering rack preload adjustment
11-14-2017, 07:10 PM
#1
Steering rack preload adjustment
1998 4Runner LTD, 270K
I need to get my front end aligned, and I was checking all the things I could in preparation. My ball joints, tie rod ends, and control arm bushings seem good, and my alignment cams aren't frozen and turn freely (a big relief at this mileage). One thing I have done for every high mileage vehicle I've owned (all of them), is to adjust the steering gear preload/backlash. I do feel a small amount of play when pushing the tire at 3:00,9:00, so I'd like to check the preload while I am also looking at the rack bushings and steering column play. What does the tech service manual have to say about the rack preload?
Right after I posted I saw the FSM stickys, so I have the procedure in front of me. Has anyone done this on the vehicle? I ask because it reads a bit funny. My interpretation: Tighten the guide cap to 18ft-lb then back it off 19deg. Twist the input shaft back and forth a few times. Loosen the guide cap until you can't feel any spring tension at all. Re-tighten the guide cap slowly while turning the input shaft. Continue until it requires from 4 to 15in-lbs input shaft turning torque. That low torque setting (~1ft-lb) is probably not possible without disconnecting the steering. Even then getting a torque wrench on it may not be easy.
I need to get my front end aligned, and I was checking all the things I could in preparation. My ball joints, tie rod ends, and control arm bushings seem good, and my alignment cams aren't frozen and turn freely (a big relief at this mileage). One thing I have done for every high mileage vehicle I've owned (all of them), is to adjust the steering gear preload/backlash. I do feel a small amount of play when pushing the tire at 3:00,9:00, so I'd like to check the preload while I am also looking at the rack bushings and steering column play. What does the tech service manual have to say about the rack preload?
Right after I posted I saw the FSM stickys, so I have the procedure in front of me. Has anyone done this on the vehicle? I ask because it reads a bit funny. My interpretation: Tighten the guide cap to 18ft-lb then back it off 19deg. Twist the input shaft back and forth a few times. Loosen the guide cap until you can't feel any spring tension at all. Re-tighten the guide cap slowly while turning the input shaft. Continue until it requires from 4 to 15in-lbs input shaft turning torque. That low torque setting (~1ft-lb) is probably not possible without disconnecting the steering. Even then getting a torque wrench on it may not be easy.
Last edited by tns1; 11-14-2017 at 07:52 PM.
11-15-2017, 10:52 AM
#2
Found this excellent post on the subject. Not sure why I didn't find it before:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/h.../#post51496401
Further checking shows my rack bushings are shot, so I'll wait until I have the parts.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/h.../#post51496401
Further checking shows my rack bushings are shot, so I'll wait until I have the parts.
11-18-2017, 09:58 PM
#3
Contributing Member
I'm almost at 395,000 miles on my '01 4Runner - bought it new with 2 miles on the clock. I can't tell you how many times I've carefully adjusted that drag/preload adjuster over the years. Quite a few times.
I always have a few of the correct-sized Oetiker stainless band clamps on hand. Every other year or so I'll find that the steering is either too light or exhibits a clunk over irregularities. I cut the clamp, slide the dust boot to the left, and proceed to carefully dial in a bit of drag. Once satisfied that the rack is snugged up without binding, I install a new clamp & carry on.
Andreas
I always have a few of the correct-sized Oetiker stainless band clamps on hand. Every other year or so I'll find that the steering is either too light or exhibits a clunk over irregularities. I cut the clamp, slide the dust boot to the left, and proceed to carefully dial in a bit of drag. Once satisfied that the rack is snugged up without binding, I install a new clamp & carry on.
Andreas
11-22-2017, 04:50 PM
#4
Kudos on the mileage. Not clear on why you need to mess with the dust boots to adjust the preload, unless you feel you need to examine the inner tie rod ends at the same time.
I installed the Energy bushings for my rack, and I can no longer detect play from the rack. The poly bushings are a perfect fit. I ordered the Energy grease as well since the kit does not come with any (cheap ba$tard$). It takes very little, and I used just half a tube. The install took about two hours, and the most time consuming step was using a large rat tail file to enlarge the ID of the small bushing sleeve. Everyone seems to have this same issue with the kit. Whoever is making that sleeve is using a worn out drill, and the hole was even off-center a bit, probably because it was dull.
I installed the Energy bushings for my rack, and I can no longer detect play from the rack. The poly bushings are a perfect fit. I ordered the Energy grease as well since the kit does not come with any (cheap ba$tard$). It takes very little, and I used just half a tube. The install took about two hours, and the most time consuming step was using a large rat tail file to enlarge the ID of the small bushing sleeve. Everyone seems to have this same issue with the kit. Whoever is making that sleeve is using a worn out drill, and the hole was even off-center a bit, probably because it was dull.
