stir_fry_boy

It is hot where you are?

They usually replace the ORVR in hotter climates (Vegas NV, AZ, TX, FL etc) because they crack due to heat. Mine wasn't bad, but after talking with a shop foreman in Vegas, NV he said they replace them all the time. I can get you the part numbers, unless you live in a hot climate I wouldn't worry about the ORVR and tank valves. If you live in a cooler climate, check your hoses and have her smoked. Total cost to replace those valves (parts only) was about $120. You should be able to get an hour on the smoke machine for about $80. An hour is quite a bit of time to find a leak.

Did you pull one of the hoses off the other end when you replaced the canister? Did you get 2 hoses swapped in the wrong place? Did you buy a new canister from the stealer?

Hang tight for part numbers they should be in my truck

stir_fry_boy

Ok, here is what I bought when I did it:

1) Valve ASSY, FUEL 77380-26010 ($13.26) - AKA check valve
2) GASKET, FUEL SUCT 77169-60010 ($10.83) - Fuel pump gasket (returned)
3) VALVE ASSY, FUEL 77390-35010 ($47.07) - ORVR
4) GASKET, CHECK VAL 77177-33010 ($11.23) - check valve gasket

So, this job cost me about $70. I forgot I bought a bunch of oil filters with this stuff to make it $120 sorry for my misquote.

I reused my ORVR gasket and I wish I would have put a new one in. I took the tank off and tried to call to get one but they didn't carry it. I just cleaned it, used some silicone spray and put the new one it to make sure it didn't leak. I replaced my check valve & gasket. It is underneath a metal cover on top the fuel tank. It doesn't have any wires or anything hooking to it.

If I had to do it again, I would replace that corrugated hose that runs from the ORVR to the canister. I think it is about $13. That was a special order also but I wonder about it making a good seal. There is a little rubber o-ring inside that seals it both on the canister side and the ORVR valve side.

I also would replace your fuel filter since to get the tank out, you have to undo the line going from the tank to the fuel filter (if you don't have the fuel quick disconnect tool). You might as well change the filter if you do this job.

I returned the fuel pump gasket. I wanted it just in case I got in there and saw it was leaking. It wasn't, so I took it back.

Before you do this, you could pressurize the fuel tank with a little bit of compressed air (about 5-10 lbs) using a nozzle and a towel in the filler neck. DON'T SMOKE AROUND THE TRUCK WHEN YOU DO THIS! Spray some soapy water on the ORVR (located about half way back on top and the right of the fuel tank) to see if it leaks. Also look at your filler neck. I know on the Tundras they have issues with those. You don't need to undo the plastic from inside the wheel well, just look underneath to see if fuel is leaking. The filler neck runs to the back of the tank on the left side of the truck. It has a big hose with 2 small hoses, one on each side.

Hope this helps

poppaj

Thanks a bunch stir fry, this all great information. And yes I live in Vegas so it is hot right now. I'm going to order all the parts first and change everything gaskets and all since the tank will be out. I won't be able to get to it til next weekend but i will post my results after the fix.

stir_fry_boy

Sure thing. The foreman for the Toyota dealer is who I talked to in Henderson NV. He has been with Toyota for 25 years. He said that they see cracked ORVRs all the time. Good luck let me know if you need anything else including how to do it.

poppaj

Just went over my whole fuel system again on a hunch that I might've missed something the first time, and sure enough I did. I sprayed soapy water on my ORVR through the hatch just under the back seat and sure enough bubbles started forming through a crack barely visible. Hopefully my parts come in this week and and I'll be able to repair next weekend.

eddieleephd

I am Glad you have figured out the issue and hope all is good for a good long while!!!

stir_fry_boy

Great job finding the problem! Taking out the tank is pretty straightforward. You shouldn't have any issue. The crappiest part is undoing all the hoses and stuff with the tank in the truck. Some of them you won't be able to reach through the hatch under the back seat. Good luck let me know if you need any help.

poppaj

Got my parts in the other day and replaced everything this afternoon. Stoked that I dont smell gas anymore and that I have pressure in my tank again! But now I have another problem.

My truck idles rough only when I turn the A/C on and the compressor makes a clicking noise but stops only when I press on the accelerator. I'm guessing my compressor clutch is out(or on its way) but I want to make sure I'm in the right direction by asking here first. Any ideas?

stir_fry_boy

First thing I would check is your IAC valve to make sure it is functioning properly. If it isn't, when the compressor is cycling it can make your truck run with really low RPMs. It takes 24 HP just to run the compressor. I would take the throttle body off the truck and give it a good cleaning including the IAC which is where coolant runs through the throttle body to give more RPM when cold or your AC compressor is on. I did a picture write-up of that as well. If that doesn't work you may have a $1000 AC fix ahead for new compressor, clutch, drier and condensor