stir_fry_boy

First time about 1 week and 300 miles ago I got a P0440 - The "big leak" code. So I went to the stealer and bought a new gas cap. The old one didnt seem to be sealing right anyway.
AGAIN it came on - ok so I know it is not the gas cap (it was tight and I didnt overfill).
P0446 - Hard Code
Pending are: P0440, P0441, P0446
Dont know how I got a hard code and a pending code the same number, but I was searching about the VSV trouble other people have had. There are 3 VSVs: 2 in the engine bay and 1 by the canister. I believe from what people are saying is that the one they replace is the VSV by the canister? Oh, one more thing after driving about 30 miles at once, I can smell an odor coming from near the rear tire. I have never smelt something like this before.

HELP ME RELIEVE MY FRUSTRATION!

poppaj

2001 4runner SR5 with p0440 code. Replaced gas cap but still the same problem. Also has fuel odor coming from the rear when running. Also noticed that there is no fuel pressure in gas tank when i remove the cap. need help please!!!

stir_fry_boy

I went to the stealer and got the "VSV for Pressure Switching Valve" located on the canister itself (it is red and hooked on top on the right side above the hoses). I pulled my canister out of the truck and I saw no raw fuel! Which is good, because I didn't want to replace it. I found no obvious damage from a rock or anything. I then found the valve, tested it as per the FSM. The FSM says to apply 12V from the battery to the valve and it will open and allow air to flow. All mine did was click but not open. Diagnosis: STUCK CLOSED. I replaced it and put it all back together I just hope I got the hoses all in the right place. It took me about 2 Hrs to do it with a trip to the hardware store for some 14g wire to test the valve with.
Well, I cleared the codes by undoing the battery, started her up and it runs good, but my idle RPM went down about 200 (was 800 now 600).
Cost: $53.96 for VSV part #90910-12264 (this is the only VSV that the stealer stocks out of 3)
$1.48 for 3 ft of 14g wire.
The stealer wanted $80 labor + 53.96 for parts.
Hopefully I fixed the problem. How many people want a write up?

GSGALLANT

Thanks for posting the fix. Too many people don't properly close out threads with what they actually did to fix the problem. Keep us posted on whether the problem comes back or not.

eddieleephd

X2
Doesn't help the rest of us when the fix is not posted

stir_fry_boy

Yea, no prob.

What do you think about my RPM dropping?

eddieleephd

I think it is due to less pressure in the fuel system maybe you might try another
Pressure regulator or adjusting the Idle screw.

Godzilla

You dont have an idle screw.
And ~600rpm with an auto at idle in gear is about normal.

poppaj

do you still smell the odor coming from the rear of the car?

stir_fry_boy

Just looked at the FSM. "Normal Idle" is about 650-750. Seems that it was a little high before (maybe another sign that I fixed the problem). In first gear it is about 600. My Dad's 2003 runs about 600 in first too. Also, My sensors are not set yet because of my undoing the (-) battery cable.

Drove it about 10 miles. No to odor so far. Will keep you posted.

poppaj

Thanks, your problem(s) seems to be the same as mine. Did you ever lose pressure in your fuel tank before you fixed the problem and do you have pressure now?

eddieleephd

is that 600rpm in gear or out?

And you don't have an idle screw?

such as the one in the two pics below.

I am just not at the house to look at the auto throttle body!

Godzilla

The engine sets its idle from the ECU, which gets info from the IAC, TPS, MAF and coolant temp, etc. There is no mechanical idle adjustment, with of course the exception of the throttle cable.
As I posted "And ~600rpm with an auto at idle in gear is about normal"

eddieleephd

Okay I agree in gear this is a great number!
and that set screw for the idle is to the cable armature.

However it is this armature that screwed my idle up and I had to blast it and work out the issue and back off of this screw
to get it to drop!
Of course mine is a manual and this is why the idle screw "idle set screw" question

stir_fry_boy

After looking at the FSM idle adjustment procedure, it mentioned nothing about the screw. All I know is that MY idle with no accessories on (A/C rear defrost etc.) is about 600 warmed up, in first gear and with the vehicle NOT moving. In park mine is about 700. Which is perfect according to the FSM (650-750 is correct range).

Poppaj: I have noticed that when I filled up before, there was no pressure released. I don't know about now. Sometimes with my other 2 vehicles, I get no pressure released sometimes when I fill up. So, that will be hard to tell. Just fixed it about 60 miles ago. As far as an update with the odor, I have none now that I can smell. It is a hard odor to describe but I think an accurate description is "wet charcoal". Not a burnt smell.

poppaj

Update on my situation:

Went to a different auto zone this time and they pulled p0440(x2) and p0442. I showed these codes to two different master mechanics and described the fuel odor and no pressure in tank, they both told me the same thing: get a new gas cap (from the stealer of course) and if that dont work get a new charcoal canister. I went ahead and bought the gas cap and ordered my new canister. Just put the gas cap on tonight and oddly my rpm dropped from 600 to 500-550(hoping this is a sign i fixed something). Still smelling that fuel odor/"wet charcoal" smell so im going to go ahead and install the new canister when it comes in. I'll update once I've done this.

SWPERIC

how the heck did you get the canister out?! 4 bolts, 3 hoses, some black plastic hose and the VSV connection. the last 2 i cannot seem to get undone. any tips? thanks!

GSGALLANT

The idle set screw is not a manual vs auto thing. It's a 1996-2000 4Runner vs 2001-2002 4Runner thing. The '01 and '02 4Runners use a drive-by-wire system... Very different from the earlier 3rd gen 4Runners. As somebody mentioned in a previous post, the idle speed at any given time is controlled directly by the ECM (via the IAC valve) based on data it receives from a multitude of sensors.

mt_goat

Might try also reseting the ECU fuel trims (pulling the battery cable for about 10-15 mins will do it). Its like clearing the memory on it.

eddieleephd

Ahh this makes sense! I took a look at the auto throttle body today while at the house and the set screw is in a different place! in stead of being on the top screwing down it is from the side nearer the intake tube.

any who hope the advice these guys gives you what you need! I am obviously obsolete in this issue