My suggestion would be just to do one thing at a time. Since one thing can throw several codes. That is what I did and I am glad that so far I have not had to buy the canister.....knock on wood. Don't get to wild here. I talked to several stealers and they all said that "unless you keep overfilling the gas tank the canister will last, it is the overfilling that causes the problem most of the time". But several mechanics said that they replace it all the time. I call the BS card on the need to just replace it to get rid of the code. If you have to "order" anything, that says that it is not common enough to warrant stocking the item. To me that is a huge clue to the likelihood of the culprit causing the problem that I may have. The part the dealer stocks more of is the part they sell the most.....So far for me no codes and no odor......Runs like a champ.

 

Last 2 bolts? Last 2 hoses? There is one small hose on the left side that needs to be undone and there is also a clip above the crossmember in the front of the bracket that also needs to be undone (it holds 2 hoses on the left side and 2 hoses on the right). The two hoses on the right side don't have a clip but just push and pull in. I used a flat screwdriver to undo the clip on the left side at the bottom to pop it off. I didn't put the clip back on because I couldn't reach it after I was done.
You also need to pop out the wire (there is a little black clip) from the bracket for the canister. This is done from top to bottom not side to side. Even if you disconnect the VSV from the valve, you still need to undo that clip. That is the very VSV I replaced...
Hope that helps.

 

UPDATE: I AM SUPER, SUPER STOKED!!!! I just drove my Runner about 60 miles without stopping and NO ODOR, and I opened up my gas cap and - THERE WAS a rush of air! PRESSURE! Didn't have that before.
On a side note: I am at 160 miles well above 1/2 tank full of gas. Before I was getting between 130-150 miles to half tank on the gauge. I think it is, for the most part: FIXED. But knock on wood still, only time will tell. But all signs lead to good news!
Poppaj, don't change your canister yet. Try the VSV first it was only $50 and the stealer wanted $80 to change it. You might want to consider just taking the chance even if you don't want to fix it yourself, based on what many other people have posted and what other dealers have told me. It probably will end up beating $500 ($400 for canister and about $100 to change it). You won't know unless you try. The canister does come with that VSV attached BTW.

 

Awesome glad you gotter goin!
Have fun!
PHD

 

Well after about 600 miles, my MIL came on again.......BUMMER! I pulled the codes and got p0440 both hard and pending.
There is pressure in the tank every time I fill up and I am getting about 21 MPG mixed city/hwy driving. I don't understand how I can have a leak and have pressure in the tank every time I open the fuel cap??

Anyone got any ideas??????

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/r...-codes-156800/

it's a thought?

 

Ok, I will go have my battery tested tomorrow.

Anyone else got any suggestions?
Where are all the gurus on this matter?

 

True code meanings.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh....php?p=2521744



http://www.wattora.com/index.php?page_id=72

 

Battery is GOOD. I will be looking for loose hoses tomorrow. Also be testing the other 2 VSV's tomorrow along with the vapor pressure sensor.
Had codes read again (after about 100 miles more) and only code is P0440.
Any other suggestions?????

Is the tank supposed to have pressure every time you open the gas cap?

 

2 other VSVs under the hood are good and check out. Same with the VPS. Unhooked all the hoses to the canister, and checked canister per FSM. Canister is good to go. No gas in the canister.
I am about ready to take it to the stealer.

ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS???

 

bump....

 

Ok, well it has been a while, so I am posting my latest finds. I cleaned the metal mating surface of the filler neck to gas cap because it was dirty, reset the light and drove. It went about 700 miles and it came on again - P0442 Small Leak code. Another symptom I am having is that sometimes when I fill up it stops half way through or the gas pump shuts off when I begin to fill. It doesn't happen every time but just sometimes randomly. What are your thoughts? Is this the fuel cutoff valve?

 

not the fuel shut off!

try removing all of the lines and checking them out for condition and removing any bad portions and reconnecting them to see what happens then.

the fuel will shut off when I pump if I am lazy and don't hold the nozzle right
so this is most likely not the issue could plausibly be caused by the back flow line that lets air out being clogged.
those two holes next to the fill hole inside the tube. may try running some medium steel wire down them to see if they are free.
This will not be the overall issue.

 

I think that if I pull the fill nozzle out a little, the tank will then fill up. It doesn't seem to be clogged. The reason why I suggested the fuel cutoff valve is because they become cracked and damaged over time and can leak causing the EVAP leak (my P0442 / P0440 codes). I have talked with several dealerships and they all check it. After talking with my mechanic, he told me that the fuel cutoff valve has nothing to do with filling the tank but he has seen them crack and leak on other Toyota models. This is the only thing left to check........
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...t-help-please/

 

Wanted to update my progress on this problem I have been having. I know it has been a LONG thread, but it takes about 800 miles after resetting it for it to come on again.
Saturday I pulled the gas tank after ordering the Fuel Check Valve, Fuel Cutoff Valve (ORVR) and ORVR gasket along with a fuel pump gasket. It was straightforward to take it out and I had it out in about 1.5 hrs with some help. I was looking for a cracked ORVR but couldn't tell if it was bad, so I put a new one in (~$40). While I was taking it out there is a big corrugated hose going from the ORVR to the canister in back, it came right off! Come to find out that that hose was not on tight and could have been leaking causing my codes. I put on all the hoses tight put it all back together and she started right up. So, if anyone needs some pointers on how to drop the gas tank, I have done it. Just PM me. My rig has been about 220 miles and runs awesome, and so far so good. I did put Mobil 1 5w30 in this time, changed my tranny fluid again, and a new air filter. I think I am getting about 22 MPG but we will see.

 

Stir fry boy,
My lights came back on again. Can you provide me the part numbers for all these parts?

 

stir fry boy may have the answer but just incase here is where to find part numbers
http://ttora.com/wiki/index.php/Main_Page this one has good info and such

http://ttora.com/wiki/index.php/Gene...ma_Information fast moving parts catalog is here

Some times these numbers are out of date and all you have to do is call the dealer and they will give you the updated ones for those that do not work!!!

 

poppaj I"m not sure what code you're getting but 99.9% of the time a PO441 is the gas cap. Usually cleaning the contact surfaces on the filler tube and cap will cure the problem.
Good luck, this thread was helpful for me.

 

What are the codes? What year is your 4Runner?

 

Mine's a 2001 SR5. Same two codes as last time. P0440(x2) and P0442. I replaced the canister, gas cap and the two VSV's under the hood. All new parts from the dealer, but now i'm pretty sure its the valve on the tank cuz I can smell gas coming from that area. No other leaks when I inspected the hoses all the way to the engine bay.