QSVeilside

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rimpainter.com

That you knew of . I did it already. You can "clock" the elbow and pull out the light at the strip or before the next stop light drag race (just be sure to tell the guy next to you to hold on a second )

It's in my mod list in the "check out my rig" section, but I've kept it pretty low-key because I don't have any data for it.

I was actually going to look in to having a mock corner light made that had a verticle scoop in the middle, but never had time.

QSVeilside

Nice! I was thinking more along the lines of making a mock light as you mentioned - drilling out the center.

Bennito

Someone also did a great job (on the looks) of removing the small rectangular sheet metal below the headlight / above the bumper. I believe they then piped it to the airbox. Unfortunately I don't recall who. Looked very good. But its a pretty small gap.

Perhaps the next logical move is to add white fogs (for low) and driving lights (For high) and remove the headlight altogether.

yeah - due to the looks I'm only semi-serious.

MTL_4runner

I think it was a JDM part IIRC.

MadCityRich

Ram air is a joke for our vehicles. No disrepect meant, but it really doesn't amount to a hill of beans.

Ram air in this thread's contect is really a positive-pressure system in which the pressure exerted by the 4Runner as it moves down the road is used to help push more air into the engine.

But there are a few issues with our vehicles to consider.
1) We have a MAF system based on a heated wire. This system does not sense pressure, only air velocity. It cannot adjust for density changes in the air. Not that it can't adjust, just that it's not optimal.

2) We have throttle plates. These intentionally restrict the air into the engine to maintain appropriate air/fuel ratios. You'll get a bit more air at each throttle restriction.

3) You get a 0.1 psi increase going 77 mph. This adds to atmospheric pressure of about 14.5 psi. That's less than a 1% increase in pressure. You'll end up with about 1% more air going into the engine in a perfect system. Given a constant air/fuel ratio, that means 1% more fuel burnt, which means roughly 1% more HP. On a 190 HP engine, that's all of 1.9 HP at peak HP output and WOT. At 109 mph the pressure is increased to 0.2 psi over atmospheric pressure.

4) If you feel you need to go much over 109 mph, you should really consider other vehicles, or at least get forced induction.

I think the main benefit folks are feeling is from less restriction in the intake. But that can be done with a ISR mod and Tru Flow filter mod. And you get to keep your headlight.

My opinion.

MadCityRich
'02 4Runner Ltd

TRDatVT

MAF does compensate for density changes.... Thats why it is optimal for having a supercharged application as it will change for AFR at different altitudes to come extent.

midiwall

True, this isn't a real RAM air idea, it's more of a way to get cooler air into the engine - which is denser, which the MAF _can_ adjust for, which will absorb more fuel, which will give you more power.

It's the same reason why our trucks have more power when it's 65* out versus 90*.


Yeup... I was gonna mention that as well.

QSVeilside

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rimpainter.com

The scoop in place of the rectangular plate you guys are thinking of can be viewed on Gadget's site. He has a friend that did it I believe and shows a pic or two.

MTL_4runner

That one might be a mirrored pic because all the ones I've seen were under the passenger side headlight.

midiwall

Yeup, me two.

I'm pretty sure there was a thread here... I've looked before but couldn't find it. I'll try again.

Bighead

That was Ron S.'s 4Runner that I believe Gadget now owns. The scoops were under both lights. If I remember right, there used to be a thread on 4x4Wire where Ron talked about how he did that mod.

MadCityRich

If you already have a supercharger, then the literal "ram air" definition doesn't really fit. You are already ramming lots of air. Most ram air definitions are based on the idea of using the vehicle's speed and subsequent air pressure to force more air into the engine. It doesn't really do much. The issue of low pressure under the vehicle makes sense. Something to consider is putting the intake near the cowl (where the windshield and hood meet). That is the highest pressure air and is why muscle cars often have "cowl induction." If a functional hoodscoop were used, it would be better to have it turned opposite of how the factory has the existing hood scoops. Just doesn't look as cool.

If you want to cool your intake charge, then an intercooler will probably net you more impact. I've seen air to air intercoolers that mount behind grills. Another option is an air to water intercooler, but that gets a little more expensive and technically challenging. I think most intercoolers cool the air AFTER the compressor, since it's the act of compression that really increases the temperature of the incoming air charge. Cooling the air a degree or two before it goes in the compressor won't do much.

Cold air is always a good thing. But I don't think our MAF sensors are sensing pressure changes. They are sensing air flow. More air and and colder air going across the heated MAF wire means the ECU "sees" a higher volume of air. It's based on heating a wire to maintain its temperature. The more energy it takes to heat the wire, the more air is flowing. The ECU can then adjust the injectors and timing to match the incoming volume of air (among other factors). But it's not measuring pressure. A MAP sensor will actually monitor the vacuum or pressure in the intake as a way of measuring engine load (it's a direct measurement of load). The MAF is similar, but uses a mathematical extrapolation of the airflow to estimate load.

So the best option would probably be cowl induction with an intercooler.

Again, my opinion. Use as needed.

MadCityRich
'02 4Runner Ltd.

midiwall

Here's a thread talking about the (now) Gadget truck - JasonB pops in here to say that he was selling the kits (good call Jamie):
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/ram-air-experimentation-60077/

Bighead

Courtesy of the Internet Archive.

Pic of the 4Runner showing both intakes:



Description of what he did...unfortunately, no pics: Mini Ram Air System with Under Headlight Scoops

midiwall

Right, which makes them hard to implement on the SC that fits these engines.


Right, which is why we're actually talking about a drop of 80 degrees or more.

Dunno about other folks, but the power difference in my truck is _SUBSTANTIAL_ after two hours or so on the trail. The under-hood temps are insane. That means that the temp in the airbox is insane, which means that the intake air temp is insane. It's easily over 160* under my hood.

If I can get cool(er) air into the intake, even 80* ambient air, then I'd be happy.

fwiw, a snorkel would take care of this pretty well, but the cost is high (no PVC hacks allowed! ) and I'm not a real fan of the look.

MTL_4runner

That's a great suggestion, but the issue is that a typical air/air intercooler won't work with an intake mounted roots blower like TRD makes for these trucks. Usually the air is cooled with water injection on these engines, but even that has it's limits. Unfortunately there's no easy intercooler solution and it's not for lack of people trying.

There are a few things you're missing in your evaluation. First, the MAF and MAP sensors provide similar data to the computer, but do so in different ways as I'm sure you're aware (Speed Density vs Mass Flow, both systems also sense air temp too). Now you're right the MAF doesn't measure pressure and you accuratelly described the way a MAF works, you're missing the fact that it doesn't need to know pressure because all the air that went through the MAF will be used by the engine (regardless of pressure......the more mass of air at a certain temp passes by the wire, the more the resistance changes) since it always sits in front of the throttle plate. MAP sensors do need to know pressure since it measures the speed density of the air and thus it always sits after the throttle plate. Therefore it's a moot point whether the MAF senses pressure or not because any positive pressure in front of the S/C will increase pumping efficiency no matter how small it is and the MAF does account for the increase of incoming air. The old MAP sensor system is actually LESS accurate than a MAF system because it relys heavily on preset fuel maps, but it's still effective enough and it's also cheaper to produce (which is why it's still in use today). You're also forgetting both of these systems usually operate in closed loop (ie they work in combo with an O2 sensor to adjust for any differences).

QSVeilside

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KyleT

I would take those scoops, and put those little LED strips that cops have now on the bikes (except put orange and white of course) looks like it would be a perfect fit.