lol that you are my friend. you pay top notch prices on half decent oil. find stuff on sale and stock up.

 

Toyota oil half decent? why would you say that? because its not synthetic?

I get the stuff for pretty cheap with my buds dealer discount

 

Everyone has a favorite oil for various reasons, I prefer Valvoline or Quaker State, was what I grew up with. But bottom line on oil is no matter what you prefer, or use, it needs to be CHANGED at regular intervals, not when it becomes black as chocolate syrup! LOL! I try to ensure I change my oil every 3K miles. Keep the motor happy and it won't leave you stranded. Speaking of oil, how many of you guys check your oil everytime you get fuel? Next time you fill up, take a look around as most everywhere (except Oregon) gas is self serve. Watch how many people pop the hood to check the oil. almost NO ONE! And then you wonder why people are confused about their having a worn out engine in only a few years!

 

I put a bit less than a 1000 miles a month on my truck and I change my M1 syn w/Puralator PureOne filter every 8-9 months and at 136k my Toyota uses about a half quart in that time.

 

I have to post this article in every oil thread:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...=haas_articles

i use Amsoil in all my cars except for my Rx-7 because it needs dino.

So my Toyota's and Honda's get Amsoil 5w-30 w/ an OEM oil filter. I buy OEM oil filters 10 at a time, it comes out to ~$3.40 per filter.

 

i say that not bc its not syn.. i dont buy syn unless its on sale. if not on sale i go with penzoil or gtx if its on sale lol.. most OEM oils are bulk oils and usually arent the same as what you buy at the store-- example if its mobile that makes yota oil then mobile MAY decide to lessen the additives to fit it in the price range yota wants.. catch my drift?? but if you get it cheap then by god use it but remember to change frequently

 

with that time frame and mileage you need to be changing more often. M1 has been proven time and time again NOT to hold up that well over 7k miles.. go to bitog and look up M1 UOA's.. granted yota motors (esp ones with t-belts) are very easy on oil BUT when you offroad, lots of city driving, lots of idling can totally screw your oil up.. if you are using oil try a thicker oil like 0w40. esp with an aging motor or maxlife for that matter.. your yoto motor shouldnt be using oil.

 

Dude, I respect your knowledge yet I totally disaggre about M1...I run 10K miles with M1 extended performance and m1 oversized filter and my UOA's are 100% fine...M1 IS a great oil. race teams who are not endorsed by Mobil use there own money on the stuff because it is a well designed oil.. I agree there ther is very slight differance among almost all SYN's oils though yet I dont like to mix different brands.. just a diffrence of opinion I really do think there is alot of amsoil reps out ther putting out false propaganda online about M1.

 

99.9% of the people you meet who "prefer" one oil over another have probably never even seen or done a used oil analysis. If they've done one at 3000 miles, then another 6000, then 9000 noting where the breakdown occurs then adjusting their OCI accordingly then I'd venture to say they know what they're talking about. I've done UOA's on my 4Runner because it only gets driven 4000 miles/year. I'm not going to get into the results but needless to say, to meet my needs, 4000 miles/year Amsoil turned out to be my best bet after doing all the UOA work. I used to use Mobil1 btw, and I'm not saying Amsoil is better, I'm just saying that Amsoil met my individual needs better.

So again, if anyone says one oil is better ask them for their detailed UOA's, if they've not got them then just tell them to .

 

I have no problem with that statement at all.
All I am trying to say is that some of the negative UOA's on the internet about M1 are B.S. in my opinion.

 

first off the M1 we use isnt the same racers use. but you knew that..Mobil has ALOT of $$ in marketing. If your UOA's say its fine to run 10k miles on your oil then atleast you have back up to prove that it does fine up to 10k miles. personally i havent seen many at all that looked great over 7k miles and i have seen quite a few beleive me..M1 isnt very well designed as compared to Penzoil Platinum, Amsoil and Schaeffers.. now those put some great UOA #'s

 

i dont know about BS. of course there are some descrepencies. now i am not saying M1 is crap. from what i have read and seen and personally using M1 for a long time, i know that (imo) that its overrated. hence the reason why i just buy syns on sale now. but the whole "race teams use it blah blah blah" now thats crap bc its NOT the same oil... no where near it..

- props to you for doing UOA's on 10k mile OCI's bc thats the only way you will know if it works well at that mileage. do you have copies you can post of your UOAs? I would love to see it. it would be one of the very very very few that i have seen from M1 at that mileage that would look good according to you.

 

how long of an OCI do you run with Amsoil?

 

HERE YOU GO... this is an email response from Terry Dyson from Dyson Analysis.. I was asking him about my (at the time) fill of M1- i had used M1 since 51k miles when i bought the truck. After talking with him and his response on M1 and how Tacomas and 4_Runners have bad air filtration issues made me change my mind about oil PERIOD. the email response is below---------------

Mike, is this is the 3.4 or 4.0 V6 ? They are dirty runners, as a matter of fact one of my customers calls his DUSTY RUNNER. Air filtration can be a problem with leaks in air box and ducting, or dust just getting in the intake. Use a paper air filter changed frequently, keep well tuned and sample the oil at least annually.

M1 is currently unacceptable for wear control and the Valvoline DB is a definite improvement but may struggle if longer drain are desired. 5000 max OK.

----- in the last paragraph i had asked him about Valvoline Durablend compared to M1 (bc it was on sale CHEAP in my area at the time-- now i use Valvoline Synpower bc it was buy one get one free at the time so i bought a ton of it).. the key is, keep your air filters clean. i change mine every 10-15k miles tops and i do NOT run extended drain periods. not saying i cant but after talking with Terry I decided that oil is cheap (esp on sale) so why not change it every 5k miles or so..

 

Good info!

 

Damn good article, I havent seen that one but i have some of that info handy. Everybody that has posted on this issue needs to read this and they will find out how much they dont know what they are talkng about.
Everybody goes by what everybody says,they never read and understand the truth.Thats why it is hard to sell Amsoil to some people and tell them about extended oil drain intervals. also the proof is in the oil analysis if you got 20 bucks to prove a point,and get the correct info on when to change your oil and why... Good info THANKS

 

It is good info and Amsoil is pretty top nothced. the only other boutique oil that i have seen that beat it was Schaeffers and Schaeffers is cheaper if you can find it

 

BTW: I wouldent run 10K on regular M1 Syn ....Another thing to consider is thst M1 Extended performance is a much Better preformer as a Synthetic compaired to regular M1 (from mobils website) and I think it uses 50% more of the premium additives thatn the regular M1. This is part of the reason why its tested to go 15K.
-Also, you have to admit no one makes a better Oil filter than M1 (actually champion makes it) It think the filter helped with my good UOA's results... the M1 oil filter is a 10 Micron filter and rated (tested) from champion to go 15K miles (although I wouldent go that far on oil or a oil filter...10K max)
I like it I just "top off" the oil slightly at about 5K and I'm good for 10K...Also I keep the Air filter clean...

- I totallly aggree about air filtration...that is key. BOTTOM LINE: dirty air = dirty oil this is simply no other way dirt can enter your motor
[B]

 

go to bitog.com and ask that question. if i am not mistaken there are a few UOA's with that in mind..

-- also with that top off, how do you know you are good to go for 10K miles?? do you have uoa's to support this?? if not then you are merely guessing. guessing is like ASSuming..

these are your trucks guys so do as you wish and believe who you want but dont give into marketing.

also we should really have the in depth discussion on gear oils and ATF's bc thats where the real torture is.. anyone can change the oil at 5k miles or less and NEVER NEVER NEVER have to worry about it unless you overheated then you should change the oil immediately no matter what oil you use

 

i've been using Amsoil Synthetic for over a year now. even though it says it will last for 1 year or 12K miles, i've changed it 4 times in the last year with only 8K miles total in that year. i heard that it would clean out some of the gunk in the engine, so to be safe i still changed it regularly. seems to stay pretty clean and gold looking, but a little darker at change time. i think after a year of changing at 3 month intervals, i'll go 4 or 5 now and see what it looks like. i have to change my valve cover gaskets in the next couple weeks so i'll take a look and see if it really cleaned anything out.