Hey guys, as I was returning to CSU from denver this weekend, about a mile out of town on I-25 my engine began to stutter. I was doing 70mph and every now and then it would bog down for a split second like it was misfiring, or not getting air. Pulling off the road, the truck sounded like a v8, it sounds like a really big cam, alot of loping and a ticking sound like a lifter. It stuttered incredibly bad at slower speeds, like fuel is cutting out for a quick second.

The truck is t 104.5K miles, 22r, 5 speed. The shifter was wagging back and forth in neutral and the engine rocks back and forth like crazy. I checked the spark plug wire connections and they are all secure, distributor cap and rotor are only 7 months old. It doesn't look like any of my vacuum lines came off. The problem is I don't have ANY tools with me at college to take my spark plugs out and see if one of them is bad.

Do you think this could be a spark plug or bad plug wire? Could my timing chain have skipped some teeth? I've done the highway drive about 6 times before, with no problems, it was just all of a sudden. I have a video here, maybe it will help diagnose the problem. In it you can hear the engine stuttering and the small back fires of the exhaust, along with the ticking noise. Oh and it didn't smell rich out the exhaust:

http://www.freewebs.com/playswithtoys/engine.wmv (1.5mb)

Now for the N. Colorado people. If any of you are in Ft. Collins and would let me borrow a ratchet and sockets to change out my plugs, I would really appreciate it! I'm on campus in the dorms. I know there was one or two of you guys here at CSU.

 

Sounds like you should start with a good tune up. Make sure and check the ignition timing. Rev the engine with the timing light attached and make sure the mark goes and returns to the same place every time. If it does not, it means your centrifigual advance or your vacuum advance is messed up. I have heard that if there is a lot of pressure coming out of the exhaust then your timing chain has jumped a tooth because the fuel / air mixture is igniting more than usual on the exhaust stroke. A vacuum test might also be a good idea.

 

I would check the plugs first then move to the timing.

Good Luck

:bounce2:

 

Ok, took it to a shop to have a tune up done and they did a diagnosis as well, because at first when they tried running the truck with different spark plug wires removed, the truck ran worse, so they thought it wasn't spark related...

Well, the #2 cylinder spark plug's electrode had completed eroded. They did a compression test and found that the other 3 cylinders were at 120psi, and that #2 was at 80psi. They said that a valve job was needed. I don't know exactly what is entailed in a valve job, but it looks like I need a new head from their parts list.

I plan to research here on YT and see if I can find more info. I might also go to a higher performance head and install it myself... That is, if my research shows that I can do it myself.

With new plugs it doesn't have the bad ignition and stuttering, but it still has alot of engine shake at idle... Hopefully I can get some time in the next month to do it.

 

if you have the haynes manual for your truck find the part where it talks about doing a compression check and it says somethig about what kind of stuff you need to check if you get low compression. also two words LC ENGINEERING!good luck keep us posted

 

LCengineering is way too expensive $600 for their cheapest head, I will check engnbldr, and I am also looking at DOA Racing.

 

You may just need to readjust your valves. I would definitely look into that before I start spending money. It's easy to check and couldn't hurt.

 

I'll check my chilton's tomorrow and see what is entailed in adjusting the valves. Leaving for some ROTC training tomorrow, so I'll get back to it on sunday.

 

Well, about $30-40 in tools later, I was able to take my valve cover off and adjust the valves. All the exhaust valves were a little loose and the number 2 intake valve was way too tight. I adjusted them all and it seemed to be running better but had a really low idle and a rough idle. Upon driving it home, I stopped and decided to see how rough the engine was running when I noticed that the vacuum advance line to the distributor had come off. So I plugged it back up and it idles great. I have to run my uniform over to the tailor now, but I am optomistic on its performance.

 

Glad to hear that thing's worked out for you play.

 

Yeah they definately did. I drove around town today for a good half hour with no problems. Runs great, just a slight vibration at idle, but I've had that for almost two years now. I will probably drive it down to denver, see how it handles the highway, and if it breaks, atleast I will have it closer to all my tools. And then I'll just bum a ride to the yota yard and get another head.