I installed an odyssey battery, got in a rush and didn't shim it up to have it tight enough with the hold down.

I was driving, hit some bumps, the hot lead direct grounded to the chassis through the battery hold down, mini arc welding it some. I installed the old battery and properly mounted it.

After this my abs lights are blinking, oil temp gauge is pegged, radio turns on and off, tach periodically jumps up and down

Is there a fusible link or an easy place to start checking? Any relays that'll go in this situation.

She's my daily driver and has been flawless.

 

Start with the fuse boxes, under the hood and under the dash.

 

I'll check all those after work tomorrow. Thx.

 

The odyssey is a new replacement battery?
If the hot lead of your battery shorted to ground, you are not likely to damage your fusible links/fuses. Although you could kill your battery.

You installed the old battery? Why did you replace it in the first place?

All those while you're trying to crank, or while the truck is running?
If while trying to crank, those are signs of a weak/discharged battery.

Yes, your your batteries.

 

Just had to be in a hurry!!

The bling of a sexy battery just got you all excited ?/

The positive terminal shorting to ground bypasses all your circuit protection I would look real careful at your ground cables and connections as well as your positive battery terminal.

Since it would only stop by the circuit being physically opened or the battery completely discharged very possible to have melted parts of the circuit beyond repair

 

Alright all fuses check out good. Tapped all the relays everything starts fine it is charging normal at idle.

I change the battery because I had a brand-new Optima sorry I put Odyssey earlier my brain was fried.

I put the old one back into eliminate the first variable, since it was fine I merely replaced it to have a brand-new battery in there.

It drives fine but as soon as you load the electrical system, like put on the headlights and then touch the brakes the tachometer jumps around, and the temperature gauge moves up and down with the turn signals.also the stereo turns on and off continuously kind of random. But it all seems directly related to load.

The voltage was stable through the battery at the connections while idling, 14.34 V at idle. I guess I will start at the ground cable and go from there, I also had the same stable voltage at the fuse block at the two high amperage leads coming off the battery into the fuse box itself.The way a
It acts it's like a grounding issue, like it is out of ground.

 

Yeah suspecting ground makes sense with above symptoms. Clean and secure connections? Electrically clean means shiny metal contacting shiny metal. Gray metal is not electrically clean. A terminal that looks clean outside may have been oxidized inside from shorting and age.

 

The obvious visible connections are good to go. I'm just gonna have to start tracing the ground cables and figure out if maybe one of them didn't arc or weld to something strange?

 

Also check cable insulation along entire length carefully for signs of speckling or melting. Can be a sign of havoc within.

 

Just change the negative cable from the battery to the block with a heavier gauge cable, no change at all.

I'm going to cut open the insulation tomorrow, the little wire loom so I can see inside where all the wires come out from the battery and go down under the motor.

 

Someplace is unable to carry the load .

Just what does the positive terminal look like ?

It was replaced ??

 

I think you are right.....you have a ground issue....the ground that goes from the engine block to the chassis. Take note of where your battery ground cable goes. I bet it goes to the engine....close to the starter? The issue is the negative side...the positive is aok. So, they have to have a kind of "fusible link".....a #10 wire from block to sheet metal. That wire is probably fried.

 

If you can't locate the engine ground strap then just run a new one....from the eng block to the chassis near the physical battery. The electrical probs will go away

 

Yessir the new negative 2gauge I ran, I followed and is on the block from battery to block, just below the oil filter.

I'll check for The block to chassis ground. I'm getting off work early today so I have some daylight to mess with this. Trying to sort issues after dark isn't too fun.

Is this " Zuk"The differential guru by chance???

 

One and the same. Take a look at ZUK's avatar and I think he has his website link in his sig.

 

Gotcha, I'm on the mobile app so it's limited but figured that was him.

 

ZUK is the winner on this one. Thank you sir!! It was the small 8-10 gauge wire behind the block, above the starter to the firewall. Fried in 2. Replaced it with a 6 gauge and also replaced my battery to chassis ground as well, it had been disconnected for years without issue.

All symptoms are gone!!! I can get the Z06 back in the garage and get back to breaking 200,000 on the 97.

Thanks for all the help oh here.

 

Glad to help. Is your 97 a Runner? Auto? If you haven't already, it's a good idea to replace that factory original radiator. .....and then you will be a candidate for 300K miles

 

Yes sir, she is an auto, the first thing I did with the help of the forums. Was replace the radiator and put an Extertal transmission cooler.I didn't want to deal with the dreaded pink milkshake or whatever they are calling it this year.

If I get things situated in the next 3 to 6 months, I may be visiting you for some regearing as well. I'm out in Tucson now.

 

Very good. Please note that I can do a pro job on the rear V6 3rd you have(or e-locker) but the front clams I stay away from for now.