J-One

Ok so about 2 years ago my rear brakes were getting white hot on short drives of less than 4 miles. So I dove right in. After inspecting everything I determined I needed new axel seals and wheel bearings on both sides as well as new shoes. I replaced them, brakes still getting ridiculously hot after short drives. It seemed as though the brakes were adjusting out (done by e-brake) but not backing off. I then replaced the master cylinder and both rear wheel cylinders. Brakes still getting super hot and when I go to take off the drums, they are stuck on there so bad I usually have to screw the bolts into the screw holes to pry them off. So I figured maybe because i had brand new brake shoes it might take a few months before they would wear down. 2 years later I have the same problem. Super hot brakes. Now I'm even getting brake squeal in the back when I'm not even on the brakes. Anybody else have this problem? I'm beginning to think it's a poor e-brake self adjusting design.....

93 runner

dude i feel your pain, i lifted my 85 and put a aussie locker in rear i have had the rear tires burning up when i got home several times i took the adjusters out ,and adjust them about every couple months ,i would love to hear a solution besides rear disc. i have also replaced master and wheel cylinders no differance

Yukon

Yeah I have the opposite problem... But start by taking apart the adjusters, cleaning them, and makeing sure it all looks good. really an odd problem... what kind of truck is it?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Just curious but when you put the new shoes on how tight did you adjust up your brakes.

Is your emergency brake working like it should ??

The bell cranks are not seized in the bell crank brackets.

To remove drums I always back off the adjusters before even using the bolts to push the drum off.

I have never seen a problem where the shoes over adjust most common is the shoes not being adjusted up to where the e-brake is able to keep them tight.

New shoes most often seat in about 100 miles if not sooner but there are always exceptions .

Please let us know how this works out

DailyDrive

Maybe the wrenches you used to work on your brakes are bad design?

TheDurk

I am not sure what you mean by this. It's a pawl and ratchet--it won't go backwards (unless you backstab it), nor should it have to. Shoes wear, they don't build up. You are supposed to start with the adjuster in the shortest possible position, and then use the e-brake to reach the adjusted position (per the FSM). Is that what you did?

Did you also properly adjust the bellcrank travel adjusting bolt on the back? Bellcrank travel, measured at the bolt tip, with e-brake cable and tension spring both off, should be between 0.4 and 0.8mm (per the FSM). I'm guessing here, but if this is too small, the pawl won't be able to tighten the ratchet wheel for sure--if it's too sloppy, maybe it can cause what you are seeing by ratcheting two clicks at a time..

Gerdo

Not sure why but non-OEM shoes don't work well in our 4runners. The parking brake will over adjust the brakes too tight which, as you know, causes the heat. Not sure why. I'm thinking that they aren't the exact same shape as the drum and when you apply the parking brake they flex and over tighten. Go back to OEM.

sod2010

Same problem as J-one. Hot brake drum after axel seal and new shoes--replaced shoes 2x, the second time with OEM shoes which did help some. Also have replaced wheel cylinder. With OEM shoes, the drum was much better--just warm--not searing HOT! However, after 2 weeks, the drum is now searing HOT again. I use the e-brake a lot as this is a manual trans. I think it has something to do with e-brake but we've looked at this many times and the e-brake works great. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

J-One

Thanks for all the replies everyone. The bellcrank travel is an interesting one, I will check that. Otherwise everthing else was done according to the FSM. My shoes are wearing thin, so I was trying not to think about it until I replace them. I will definitely go to the local Toyota Stealer...I mean Dealer and get new brake shoes. *It's interesting to note that the very first time I pulled off my rear drums, the thin metal that the drums sink into was all bent and beat up from what I assume was someone trying to pry the drums off with a screwdriver. I'm just wondering what they were doing in there once they got them off! Ah, how I wish I could be an original owner and not pay for it!

BigBallsMcFalls

this is usually seized pivots. next time you have drum off, unbolt and remove the
cable pivots and see if they are jammed up or free.

aowRS

+1.


Andreas

liveoak

I fixed my drums over adjusting with a 1/4 stainless steel flat washer as pictured

truckmike26

So my passenger's side drum adjustment keeps over-tightening no matter what I do. Driver's side works perfectly. Backed off the parking brake adjuster ahead of the fuel tank lots so there's lots of slack when disengaged.

Everything's brand new aftermarket stuff from RockAuto, driver's and passenger's side. Dorman parking brake hardware. New Toyota OEM backing plates. Nothing's seized. Assembled with care following he FSM on the bench.

Wheel getting hot again after a while as do other's on here after yet again backing everything off and readjusting.

Can you elaborate with that little washer trick? I'm guessing it keeps the pawl from wobbling and over-tightening the adjuster?