I am a little naive about lockers. My 2002 Doublecab has a button marked "RR DIFF LOCK". This option can only be used in 4low, and it says to only use it below 5mph. Is this a true locker as you guys refer to them? What benifits does this give me?

Thanks,
Noel

 

Yes that is your electric locking differential...what so many people on this board wished they had!!! This locking differential locks both sides of your rear axle to each other so that both tires spinat the same rate. For example, when you are off-roading, and one tire loses traction, a conventional differential will send all of the power to that tire that doesn't have traction...hence the advantage of a locking diff.

 

Is the factory locker as good as the ones that guys install aftermarket? Do I really have to watch the 5mph that the manual warns about?

I know, I know...I have alot of questions. Knowledge is power.

 

Yes, the factory locker is awesome. I just retrofit one into my 4Runner, that's how good it is. That 5mph is a safety (that can be disabled). The locker will engage only in 4LO (can also be bypassed), and you have to be travelling below 5mph. Once engaged, your speed is only limited by low-range gearing.

 

phong...how did you get one for your 4runner? is it hard to modify for a runner? expensive? would you recommend if i already have the factory center locking differential?

 

Lockers are not cheap - that's for sure!!! But but if you are an off-roader, they're worth every penny! I don't know about the retro cost, but I bought an ARB Air Locker. It was $600, then I needed the compressor which was another $200, then three different shops quoted a $700 installation! Ouch! I have a friend that was able to work a deal with one of ARB's top techs doing the install for much, much less. Out the door I think I was into it about $1,000.00 not counting lunch and beers! Heh-heh. That's not bad considering what I gained. My rig can now go places it could only dream of before. Now I just need to install one up front...!

 

No, it's not hard, but it is expensive. A center locking differential doesn't really do anything for you off-road. When locked, your 4WD system behaves just like previous part-time systems.

If you off-road, a rear differential locker (combined with 4WD) will take you twice as far on the trail. Here's what it cost me:

$750 - Electric locking diff. (TOYOTA)
$200 - Wiring (can be done cheaper, but I chose to use the factory ECU and switch)
$175 - Housing modifications

It's right on par with the ARB setup. The electric locker becomes more economical if you decide to regear, since it comes with a brand new R&P (available in 4.10, 4.30, and 4.56 ratios). So then you just have to regear the front, and you're done. The ARB does not come with new gears, but you get an air compressor.

I'm working on a write-up, but that's basically everything in a nutshell.

 

How?

 

Which safety do you want to disable? I'm disabling the 4LO safety, and leaving the 5mph safety in.


5mph: Ground "SPD" pin #10 of the locker ECU (should be a green/orange wire)

4LO: Ground "4WD" pin #8 of the locker ECU (should be a blue/red wire)


The pin numbers are as follows (while looking at female connector on ECU):

 

How it limits locker engagument is by 2 wires that need to be grounded in order for it to lock. One is grounded by a switch in the transfer case that tells the system when its in 4 low, the other is by a speed sensor somewhere. Those 2 saftey features can be bypassed by permanently grounding the 2 wires. I'm not sure which 2.

I found the wiring diagram in my favorites on the web. On the bottom of the right side there is a switch labled Detction SW (Transfer 4Low position) on the other side of the switch is a W-B wire white with black stripe. W-B is always a ground wire, simply bypassing that switch will allow you to lock up in 4H or 2H. the other control comes from the spedometer. I think if you ground the G-O wire #10 on the locker ECU you can bypass the 5MPH requirement to lock up. Then you can lock up any time you want in any gear or speed.

Here is the diagram.

 

Then there is always the Downey cable control that I want to get during my upcoming winter build up. With that you pull the lever to lock it, pull it the other way to unlock it, you dont even have to have the key in the ignition. It takes all electronic signals and computer functions out of the equation. Just the way I like it.

 

I like that idea too Matt.
Now come on over and help me put one in

On the cable, I hear those OX lockers are always having problems with proper cable tension.
It it gets out of kilter, you can't lock, or sometimes unlock.

I hope the Downey one doesn't have that issue, as if I ever get a E locker in the future, I want to do it this way too.
The less wiring, the better.

Plus I'm out of space on my dash for any more switches

 

Does anyone suggest removeing the safteys that Toyota installs (4w hi, and 5mph). Is there a reason to use the locker in 2wd? Can I do damage by engaging the locker over 5mph? I thing I would like the option of using the locker in 4hi? Toyota is pretty specific about using the locker only when all else fails? Is there a good reason for this or is it just to make the lawyers happy?

 

Can anyone see an issue with using the locker in 2wd/4hi or above 5 mph?

Why does toyota insist on not doing this?